Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire Spray Foam Insulation on Metal Building (or others)

I had not thought of this foam making the thinner metal stronger but it would stand to reason it does. With that being said I wonder how much less damage a roof would have that has been sprayed with foam insulation compared to one without?

All the steel buildings in prudhoe bay are foam backed steel.

Our little 2x4 wall house in Anchorage had spray foam insulation. Pretty tight house, easily heated with a woodstove insert in the fireplace, but only 1100sf

Having seen it get crumbly is what prompted my question about paint or if there was something in the mix that did not require a final cover.

Good point on decay/deterioration... I really have no idea.

When I got my first Glock in 1986 people told me it would melt or crack. It has not. I carry it daily with others.

If I had to speculate (ONLY A GUESS)... I will suspect 2 part closed cell spray foam on fresh steel will last. I really have no idea... but the intrinsic confidence I have is that this is not the same (potentially) problematic stuff as the original Open Cell stuff... or "Foam in a can" stuff. i.e. the chemistry of the product has improved.

As for off-gassing... there was very little odor last two days. I am hopeful that long term odor or harm will be none or minimal. I may spray white paint to enhance illumination and give a layer of UV protection. Hadn't really thought about it much until reading comments here and thinking on it.

Keep the moisture and the mice away from it and the stuff will last forever.

Termites love tunneling thru it.

Current home had it done during the build. I didn’t know really how good it was as far as keeping the house cool until a couple of neighbors were bragging about how their $30k solar system reduced their power bill…. To pretty much what I was already paying.

Bulk picture link (unsorted) if anyone wants to see the videos pics etc. https://photos.app.goo.gl/fWdU4H7FooPrhpwo9

Any building or home will sweat just like an ice chest. I’ve seen some that t looks like it had been raining. It’s amazing how fast wood studs will rot. Do your homework and gather as much info help as possible. Everyone thinks they are an expert. Insulation contractors want to encapsulate the whole inside because it’ s easiest and get to the the bank ASAP to cash your check. It’s hard to find one to do it right. Any building must breath. You can spend extra and buy a specific ac/heater that brings in fresh air or incorporate fresh air ventilation. I know some on here will disagree. Do your homework. You have to have a vapor barrier incorporated with fresh air.

EXCELLENT POINT... thanks for making it.

I would agree. The bonding to clean steel seems amazing...

I left the concrete slab floor dirty... leaves, dust and debris.

The small amount of over-spray that hit the concrete floor stuck... the over-spray that hit the leaves, dust and debris... never hit the floor and will sweep out with a leaf blower.

Closed Cell foam is what the OP used, not Open Cell.

Closed Cell is a vapor barrier in itself and it’s application conforms to all vapor barrier codes here in MN. An additional vapor barrier such as poly applied over the Closed Cell foam prior to Sheetrock or wood is not only not recommended, it is a violation of building Codes in many areas.

Open Cell , is different, it is not considered a vapor barrier and building codes require that a vapor barrier such as poly, be applied to the inside of exterior walls.

I’ve been doing this a long time and I have yet to see Closed Cell foam react the way you describe. Open Cell is like a Puffed Corn snack and should be covered or it will react as you described.

Open cell can be applied at much colder temps than Closed Cell, it much cheaper, but requires a vapor barrier and must be covered.

I made sure to have fresh air brought into my furnace as well as and additional few 4" air inlets ran from outside to Central parts of the home. I just told my heating guy I wanted fresh air brought in because the house was tight and he did those few things. I'm not sure how it works because I don't notice a draft or anything.

Bb

One simple way is to bring in a pipe or tube 8-12 inch into the mechanical room from outside up high, then place the end inside the house on the floor and in a 5 gal bucket.
The combustion make-up air comes in freely, but the cold outside air stay put, on the floor and in the bucket.

A lot of very good advice from very knowledgeable people.

Had my barn done about 12 years ago 3-5 inches thick amazing stuff.

I’m a state licensed mechanical contractor. The best way to ventilate a foam house is with an ERV or energy recovery ventilation unit. At minimum, outside air brought in through the HVAC system with a damper connected to a specialized controller.

It's some of the best stuff to insulate with.

When building my little shop i had them spray it and put in 4-6 inches on the walls and they sprayed the ceiling.

The outside walls are 1/4 in.bolted tank steel and the south wall is one i built with newer metal.

It has been a good choice because i heat and cool it to keep gun powder,primers and guns from having a bad day.

It measured 25x14 ft and had ceiling that is 14 ft tall.

It is quiet as well.About 1300.00 10 or so years ago.

It took them about 2 hours to get it done.

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