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OP
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Looking at purchasing a used walnut stock that has previously been bedded Bedding job looks good but if I needed to remove it How much trouble would it be It’s on a model 70 long action factory stock
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Joined: Jul 2005
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Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
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It's usually a lot of work and a PITA. BTDT.
Old Corps
Semper Fi
FJB
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Joined: Aug 2010
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Looking at purchasing a used walnut stock that has previously been bedded Bedding job looks good but if I needed to remove it How much trouble would it be It’s on a model 70 long action factory stock Its about a 4 minute job. Those that say it's a PITA, just don't have the tools or knowhow...
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style. You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole. BSA MAGA
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Joined: Jul 2005
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Campfire Tracker
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Looking at purchasing a used walnut stock that has previously been bedded Bedding job looks good but if I needed to remove it How much trouble would it be It’s on a model 70 long action factory stock Its about a 4 minute job. Those that say it's a PITA, just don't have the tools or knowhow... GFY
Old Corps
Semper Fi
FJB
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Joined: Sep 2004
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Its about a 4 minute job. Those that say it's a PITA, just don't have the tools or knowhow... Dremel + Turkish coffee?
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Joined: May 2007
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Its about a 4 minute job. Those that say it's a PITA, just don't have the tools or knowhow... Dremel + Turkish coffee? Snort!
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Joined: May 2007
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Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
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I'd like to know best way too. Have a Mod 70 Safari Express stock coming that I want to bed properly before it splits like the last one (I bought it that way, and boy was it split!).
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Joined: Jan 2005
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Campfire Outfitter
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I usually use my mill and dremel tool and it is not too bad (most of the time.)
Last edited by pullit; 08/24/22.
I may not be smart but I can lift heavy objects
I have a shotgun so I have no need for a 30-06.....
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Joined: May 2003
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
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A mill is the best way of doing it this way you can keep a light cut and control your depth…
You can use a Drexel but it’s a pain if things go wonky
It takes more then 4 minutes - you really don’t want to deepen it, and you can ever so lightly clean it up with a mill while staying perfectly lined up.
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Normally, I plop them in the mill and do it. On wood stocks that I don't want to risk damage by clamping in the mill vise (even with good padding) a soldering iron with a wide tip on the bedding material will soften it so it can be removed with a small scraping tool shaped to fit the area. I'll sometimes use a crafters mini heat gun...c-a-r-e-f-u-l-l-y. I mainly use these plastic automotive windshield trim sticks as a scraping tool...just reshape as needed. Only pic I have of one but you'll get the idea. If you use a Dremel, get the flexible extension kit that allows you to hold the cutting tool like a pencil. The difference in control you'll have is amazing. Good shootin' -Al
Forbidden Zoner
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You only have to remove a small amount, just enough to let the new action drop in, then mix up some epoxy and re-bed it. Don't overthink it. No need to hog out a gross amount of the old bedding, especially if the action going in is the same make/model as it was previously bedded for. Not a "four minute job" but not especially difficult.
If there are areas that are already undersize for the new action, simply wash it with acetone to remove whatever amine blush may remain from the first bedding job (and residual oils) and scuff it to provide a good adhesion surface for the new epoxy.
"You can lead a man to logic, but you cannot make him think." Joe Harz "Always certain, often right." Keith McCafferty
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Joined: Dec 2003
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Campfire Member
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You only have to remove a small amount, just enough to let the new action drop in, then mix up some epoxy and re-bed it. Don't overthink it. No need to hog out a gross amount of the old bedding, especially if the action going in is the same make/model as it was previously bedded for. Not a "four minute job" but not especially difficult.
If there are areas that are already undersize for the new action, simply wash it with acetone to remove whatever amine blush may remain from the first bedding job (and residual oils) and scuff it to provide a good adhesion surface for the new epoxy. This ^^^
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Joined: Aug 2010
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 48,195 Likes: 19 |
You only have to remove a small amount, just enough to let the new action drop in, then mix up some epoxy and re-bed it. Don't overthink it. No need to hog out a gross amount of the old bedding, especially if the action going in is the same make/model as it was previously bedded for. Not a "four minute job" but not especially difficult.
If there are areas that are already undersize for the new action, simply wash it with acetone to remove whatever amine blush may remain from the first bedding job (and residual oils) and scuff it to provide a good adhesion surface for the new epoxy. Not a 4 minute job because you mother fu ckers are slow or have not done enough to be competent.. It's alright if it takes you longer, but it doesn't really have to if you have the right tools and know how.
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style. You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole. BSA MAGA
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Joined: Jan 2003
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Campfire Tracker
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Here's a good example of what's being discussed. This is a Model 70 Super Grade stock I finished up a couple weeks ago. This stock was the nicest piece of walnut I've ever seen on a factory gun. It had the original Winchester bedding blobbed in there with a lot of 'wrong'. In all fairness, Winchester certainly didn't want any bedding material showing on a stock like this so I give them kudos for that. Factory Winchester bedding: Carefully removing the factory bedding while preserving the original bedding height (to duplicate the correct height of the barrelled action in the stock) while working all of this out with the aluminum pillars I was installing, took some time. You don't have an egg timer set for some ridiculous time. When doing something like this, I simply take whatever time it takes....to do it correctly. Good shootin' -Al
Forbidden Zoner
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If you have the tools, a mill is probably the most accurate way to do it. The fast way is with a Die grinder and some sharp cutters, but be careful so it doesn't get away from you. I never worried too much about taking out too much because you're going to be rebedding it anyway so what does it matter if you have to add a little more compound ?
If you just have basic tools, a set of curved and flat rasps will take care of it pretty quickly.
Never underestimate your ability to overestimate your ability.
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