Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Kroil

Didn't see anyone mention it but KRoil is superb in BPCR bores , wet a patch and stroke it in the bore, let sit for awhile, it's a superb penetrant it will creep under any leading you might have and loosen it so a tight dry patch will take it out easy. Works black or smokeless powders with lead bullets....mb

I wouldn't have guessed it was good for that, but I'm not a machinist.

Synthetic, preferably.

At -40 and colder, an AT does not freeze up, but can get super sluggish shifting.

I use synthetic 0W-20 or 5W-20 (what is left over from oil changes) on my AR bolts. I had a bolt freeze up using Lucas extreme last year at -15F. Went out later with the same rifle and 5W-20 on the bolt and didn’t miss a beat.

About 20 years ago an old benchrest shooter let me in on his magic potion for gun oil.
50/50 mix of Kroil and Klotz 2-stroke oil...........have never used anything else since

-30 or colder, you had best be using a dry lubricant for the firing pin. Anything oil based on the firing pin will hang up the bolt and may cause a misfire….. even on a Mauser. This is especially true when the oil is a little old. Like it’s had a month to dry up a bit. It changes viscosity and get thicker quite fast.

Autoloaders and bolts work just fine at -30 or colder with a dry lubricant in my experience.

I’m from Saskatchewan and it gets -40 here lots. I hunt in that weather. I’ve had the best luck hunting coyotes in that weather. I think sound carries farther and the wind is usually non existent.

For me whether or not an oil works at -30 is a moot point. I work really hard to avoid those kind of temps, and wouldn't think of subjecting myself to it! Heck, anymore I prefer staying in with my feet propped in front of the fire if the temp gets below +20!

I am. It's not.

It sure doesn't look like the dark thread cutting oil my father kept around.

Phil, I've read that Corrosion X doesn't interfere with electrical connections on vehicles and portable equipment, but have never met anybody who can really speak from experience. Since you seem to have used it a lot, do you have an opinion?

Kroil isn’t the best lubricant out there but it will lubricate in a pinch. It is the only thing I use to clean my bores. It will get under carbon,lead, plastic and copper fouling so that it can be brushed out. It actually is not a bad rust preventative at all. I’ve had a bare metal plate outside for 3 weeks that was wiped down with kroil. Heavy dew every night into the morning and three straight days of rain week or so back. No rust.

Try the Lucas oil clp. It’s a fine lubricant. I can’t speak for using it in 50 below temps but have used it in guns down to temps around zero and it worked good

I never ever oil or lubricate a firing pin or firing pin channel. Clean it and leave it dry. Oil will make is sluggish and increase lock time and if dirt or dust gets attracted to it, it will turn to sludge. Lubricate parts that rub but the firing pin should be clean and dry. This is especially true for AR15 type firearms but I do it to every firearm I own. Your mileage may vary but a dry firing pin is a fast and reliable firing pin. I guess the dry lubricants could work but I see no need, even with firing thousands and thousands or rounds through an AR15 with no cleaning. I truly believe if I had oil on the firing pin I would not have gotten through so many rounds without any malfunctions. Yes, the rubbing parts were lubed though.

Mark

Yes Lock Eze as already mentioned does work. It's like graphite and mineral spirit smelling.
https://www.finditparts.com/product...MQeZoqKr48WBOpkhOMAlOWN2bfgaAlzbEALw_wcB
This engine assembly grease is good stuff. It's graphite molybdenum for lubricity. Take a dab on finger or q-tip and lightly apply grease. Wipe off with towel and it leaves an slick film that's not wet like oils. It's more of an slick dry. You can pick it up in parts stores or online of course.

Dri-Slide leaves dry moly behind when the carrier evaporates. They claim is prevents rust, and so far so good in my rifle bolts. Messy as Hell, so it’s for inside only.

-20 to +750

I don’t function outside those extremes, except maybe as a tiki torch on the high side.

Eezox has worked very well for me in our humid Alabama climate.

I found some Corrosion X locally and bought a small can. It's pretty amazing stuff! I wish I knew about it when I lived near the coast. That salty air rusted alot of stuff I had laying around in the garage. It's mostly all been coated with a thin film of Corrosion X now.

Most ATF is equal to 5W20 or at times 0W20 ( like Hondas), so a light coat should work real well.

Now that they sell 0W16 oil, that would even be lighter...

I know in WW2, the Finns used to cut regular motor oil, deluted with gasoline, to lube rifle bolts and bolts on machine guns, and semi automatic guns.
Their machine guns worked when the Russians froze up... the oil being too thick. Soviet learned from the Finns, and did lube the same way when fighting the Germans after Operation Barbarossa in 1941.

in Minnesota I had good results with Amzoil synthetic spray lube on the bolt of my hunting rifle, which saw plenty of hunting out at 10 and 20 below, or more... and functioned just fine up by International Falls.

Seafoam Deep Creep has never done me wrong, but I know many of you hunt in colder temperatures than I do.