Home Forums Reloading Big Game Rifles Reloading a Belted case ..... yes i know

If you're not showing any pressure signs how is it the wrong way .

You've got to work on your insults. It's just getting boring.


Just keep it to yourself. Would you, or do you, let your kids shoot that stuff? You do realize that loosened primer pockets in belted magnum cases with all that brass on and around the case head would definitely be a sign of pressure?

Loose primer pockets after 3 firings is a pressure sign, genius.

Also, just because you have been doing something for a long time, doesn’t mean you have been doing it right or make you an expert at it.

If you want to do it the right way, put a strain gauge on it and actually measure the pressure.

I’ve tired of him/her/they also…..”it”has just joined the group of esteemed individuals placed on ignore! memtb

Good for you.

You never answered my question. Would you, or do you, let your kids shoot that stuff?

I wouldn't let a dolt like you shoot my Daisy BB gun..
.

Since were on the subject of pressure signs, are the signs the same with a belted case as with non belted? Are do they present different signals to look for?

Yeah, that is an annoying mystery. .0091" to .00261" between the cartridge and chamber is built into the SAAMI specs for the 7mm Rem Mag, 300 Win Mag, and 350 Rem Mag, etc. You can't fix it until after the initial firing.

I believe that the symptoms are the same……primer flattening, primer pocket expansion, case head expansion, extraction difficulty, ect. memtb

A false shoulder fixes the problem before the initial firing.

This belted stuff always cracks me up, and I got my first Rem 700 7RM in 1978. I have never even had to think about a belt, and I do own an unused Larry Willis die for the non problem of sizing right in front of the web.

We get the Remington Factory rifles to shoot just unbelievably, bed the action, free float the barrel, put on a good trigger, glass, and rings and bases.

Using the not so tough Remington brass, 65.5-66.0g of IMR 4350 with a 140g Nosler ballistic tip, accubond almost always shoots sub 3/8" groups on three shot groups, and key is Rem 9 1/2 with the bullet kissing the lands....even .010 off the lands will make groups open up. Since we are hunting, getting 5 shots on a case is more than enough, as they often get ejected out of the tree we are hunting out of, and the nephews do not save much brass. Barnes 140g ttsx are ungodly accurate .050 off the lands, same load.

Fast forward to the 180g ELD-M on deer, glory be, the lights came on. R#22 at 2850 and R#26 at 3030 and I am using 9T custom barrels with .210 throats for these 180's.

Now, when it comes to full length sizing, The case has a very distinct memory of the first chamber it was sized in, and this is no small matter! Interchanging brass between different guns, buying once fired brass, range brass, creates all kinds of issues. Brass sized down, will expand back out over time towards the first chamber it was shot in, you simply can not defeat the Natural Laws of Physics.

If brass is in short supply, and you have to load for friends and family's factory rifles, there are two solutions, a Small base sizer, or a RCBS full length sizer made prior to '79(the year is stamped on the top). Do not expect to size down brass and it stay sized down for 5 years, with this becoming more of a nuisance with mixed brass having multiple firings on it.

What is really messed up about factory chambers is that they are not chambered in line with the bore, with some being terribly egg shaped. Some guys think that they are shooting a hot load, neck sizing when they are only dealing with an egg shaped chamber where the brass will never be able to be neck sized.

The ugly truth about factory chambers and production dies is that reamer wear in all accounts. Dies have a spread of +/- dimensions, Chambers are all over the map in web dimensions and lengths. When you combine these two facts, adjusting dies becomes more problematic.

You always hear bump dies back .002-.003, when real world maybe a lot more. The reason for this is that you have run the die in far enough to reduce the web dimension to the point where the bolt will close. So, to reduce the web dimension, you may have to bump back the shoulder .006, or what ever the number is. This very issue will make a lot of guys go crazy, but it is a hunting rifle, not a target rifle.

My Remington and Browning A bolts LOVE HOT LOADS where they really shine in accuracy, and by Accuracy, I mean 3/8" and smaller groups, this is no understatement.

Before you die, you owe it to yourself to get a 7 Mag throated for a 180g ELD-M, run a 8.75-9T, 5 R barrel if you are hunting deer and hogs.

Bolt lift...I guess you could call that "extraction difficulty"

My first 7 mag was an older Remington BDL with the blued barrel marked "Stainless Steel" it was a tack driver...back then I was bad about trading guns and regretfully traded it off for something else.

And a good chronograph doesn’t hurt.

How...

You've been reloading for nearly 5 decades, and you don't know? JFC, LFC. What a fraud.

False shoulder explained in great detail.

https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/tag/false-shoulder/

Now the test: why are belted cases made so undersized ?

It's all good except what LFC is saying.

i like to tumble my used belted cases 1st , then candle anneal each case , then full length resize my belted brass seems to resize easier then. good luck,Pete53