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Should have said demonstrates rather than uncovers.
Faith and love of others knows no mileage nor bounds. That's simply the way it is. dogzapper
After the game is over, the king and the pawn go into the same box. Italian Proverb
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Should have said demonstrates rather than uncovers. I knew what 'ya meant. Just didn't want it misunderstood for anyone else that may be lookin'. Good shootin' -Al
Forbidden Zoner
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This thread, with the examples Al provided, has been an example of the educational value that brought me to this forum as a member originally. Advice and knowledge from those that regularly shoot and compete can save the rest of us a lot of frustration and components.
Thanks
If you can't be a good example, may you at least serve as a dreadful warning
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I got my wind flags yesterday.
Faith and love of others knows no mileage nor bounds. That's simply the way it is. dogzapper
After the game is over, the king and the pawn go into the same box. Italian Proverb
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My reason for contributing to this thread was to help shooters and hunters understand and use wind indicators to maximize their results while minimizing time and components being wasted. Cutting through all the details, there's truly only three things a shooter new to using using 'flags' (generic term) really needs to do: 1. Use at least two at 100 yards. Assuming a flat-ish range, one at 10 yds. and one at 60 yds. works. If the range has odd features (berms, etc), watch how the flags react when you move them around and place them accordingly. 2. When shooting your group, make sure the flags are angled the same for each shot. 3. You need some sort of 'tail' to indicate wind speed. Make sure this is the same for each shot. And that's it. If you do these things (#'s 2&3 can actually be condensed together), you'll get 90% of the way there. And you'll be 100% ahead of where you were without using flags. I'd like to add that wind socks make excellent wind indicators. If you search on ebay under 'Aviation Wind Socks', look for the 80CM/31" ones..... $20 will get you a couple. Good shootin' -Al
Forbidden Zoner
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Campfire 'Bwana
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This afternoon at the range i could have used one of those Wyoming wind socks.
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Campfire Outfitter
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My reason for contributing to this thread was to help shooters and hunters understand and use wind indicators to maximize their results while minimizing time and components being wasted. Cutting through all the details, there's truly only three things a shooter new to using using 'flags' (generic term) really needs to do: 1. Use at least two at 100 yards. Assuming a flat-ish range, one at 10 yds. and one at 60 yds. works. If the range has odd features (berms, etc), watch how the flags react when you move them around and place them accordingly. 2. When shooting your group, make sure the flags are angled the same for each shot. 3. You need some sort of 'tail' to indicate wind speed. Make sure this is the same for each shot. And that's it. If you do these things (#'s 2&3 can actually be condensed together), you'll get 90% of the way there. And you'll be 100% ahead of where you were without using flags. I'd like to add that wind socks make excellent wind indicators. If you search on ebay under 'Aviation Wind Socks', look for the 80CM/31" ones..... $20 will get you a couple. Good shootin' -Al Might add Al if using the 10 and 60 set, if you have a spare tripod or adapt a music stand place a Bluetooth omnidirectional wind meter at the 10 then watch the flag and wind speed for awhile. While it won’t show direction it will give a good idea of tail position compared to wind speed. I called it calibrating the tail.
Swifty
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Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
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I would add that a piece of flagging tape, tacked to the top of a piece of 1" dowel, works well enough as a wind-flag that it beats the hell out of not using any flags at all. Have tested this quite a bit against more sophisticated flags.
The big problem is getting the dowel to stand up. Have sharpened the "bottom" end and tapped them into the ground on "softer" ranges, but unless the wind's really blowing a piece of thin plywood nailed to the bottom can also work as a stand.
For testing rimfires I use a target with multiple aiming points, and mark each with a number. I shoot at target #1 in X wind condition, target #2 in Y condition, etc. This saves considerable time, and works very well because rimfire barrels don't heat up like centerfires.
“Montana seems to me to be what a small boy would think Texas is like from hearing Texans.” John Steinbeck
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Take a North East shooter and put him in the Midwest and there is an adjustment period..
I know, I was one..
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Campfire Outfitter
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Take a North East shooter and put him in the Midwest and there is an adjustment period..
I know, I was one.. 😁 I would add that a piece of flagging tape, tacked to the top of a piece of 1" dowel, works well enough as a wind-flag that it beats the hell out of not using any flags at all. Have tested this quite a bit against more sophisticated flags.
The big problem is getting the dowel to stand up. Have sharpened the "bottom" end and tapped them into the ground on "softer" ranges, but unless the wind's really blowing a piece of thin plywood nailed to the bottom can also work as a stand.
For testing rimfires I use a target with multiple aiming points, and mark each with a number. I shoot at target #1 in X wind condition, target #2 in Y condition, etc. This saves considerable time, and works very well because rimfire barrels don't heat up like centerfires. Dang it MD you just had to point out the flaw didn’t you. 😁 Just an example of cheap and easy. Personally I used that as a permanent set on my home range when I had one. Will point out that even some of the fancier expensive poles with spikes on the bottom had issues anchoring in the hard Nebraska clay when you had to extend them over the 100 yard berm when shooting at 200 and a couple of ranges over the 200 berm when shooting at 300. There were time when I would carry a small hammer with me down range to pound em in. Loaned it to others at times.
Last edited by Swifty52; 01/31/23.
Swifty
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Campfire Ranger
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A couple 1/2" sections of rebar 3 1/2 ft long with flagging tape tied on is what I use. And I do carry a hammer to drive them in the ground......
Casey
Not being married to any particular political party sure makes it a lot easier to look at the world more objectively... Having said that, MAGA.
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Stopped in one of the local shops that sell instruments to schools. There was a box full of used music stands for $6.50 each Might as well have some 'donor' stands to go with the next batch of 'donor' flags. Good shootin' -Al
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Ed
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Stopped in one of the local shops that sell instruments to schools. There was a box full of used music stands for $6.50 each Might as well have some 'donor' stands to go with the next batch of 'donor' flags. Good shootin' -Al Well Al, I have some Delrin rod on the way to make some flags and stands but it’s been pushed back till I am done fighting hard carbon fouling in the throat of a Swift. It’s tough stuff.
Swifty
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Campfire Ranger
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Im working up loads and found a load that measures .89. The problem is all three holes are just touching or very close in a lateral or flat line. Whats the best way to tune this group? If I could just move either outsiide bullets inside my group would be very respectable. Did you arrive at your group with powder charge only? I don't care for flat lines with powder charge. A flat line is an indicator of a load that is too hot! It might shoot tight sometimes but will be temperamental. Back it down just a touch until you see a triangle group and than seat the bullet deeper in 3 thou increments until it tightens up to all the bullets touching! I'm assuming you've repeated the group a number of times? Trystan I believe this is the answer the gentleman was looking for - but the wind flag information is priceless.
I've always been a curmudgeon - now I'm an old curmudgeon. ~Molɔ̀ːn Labé Skýla~
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Im working up loads and found a load that measures .89. The problem is all three holes are just touching or very close in a lateral or flat line. Whats the best way to tune this group? If I could just move either outsiide bullets inside my group would be very respectable. Did you arrive at your group with powder charge only? I don't care for flat lines with powder charge. A flat line is an indicator of a load that is too hot! It might shoot tight sometimes but will be temperamental. Back it down just a touch until you see a triangle group and than seat the bullet deeper in 3 thou increments until it tightens up to all the bullets touching! I'm assuming you've repeated the group a number of times? Trystan I believe this is the answer the gentleman was looking for - but the wind flag information is priceless. Multiple examples to this question are found on pages 8-9. Good shootin' -Al
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I love reading threads like this. They remind me how much I have to learn.
Obey lawful commands. Video interactions. Hold bad cops accountable. Problem solved.
~Molɔ̀ːn Labé Skýla~
Member #547 Join date 3/09/2001
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