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I’ve got a Ruger Hawkeye Hunter 6.5 creedmoor, stainless steel with walnut stock coming in and of course like any real gun nut, I’m already thinking about what do I need to do to make this rifle better. This is funny to me because, heck I don’t even know how it’s going to shoot right off the bat… it may shoot great. I know I’ll be getting rid of the picitinny rail so whatever scope I choose will be mounted lower. From experience the factory trigger on the hawkeye is on the heavy side for me. Which replacement trigger or kit would you choose? I’ve also heard there’s a pressure pad built into the forend of the stock, remove or not? What would you do or what have you done?
Thanks, Chance
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Joined: Nov 2004
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Nov 2004
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Shoot it first, see what if anything it needs.
"I have sworn upon the altar of God, eternal hostility against every form of tyranny over the mind of man." Thomas Jefferson
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"A Well Regulated Militia" Life Member
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Joined: Dec 2002
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Dec 2002
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Bed it in the after-market stock of your choice.
Jard trigger upgrade kit.
Keep the original trigger parts, as if you ever have to send it to Ruger for service they will remove the after-market trigger parts and sell you new original parts.
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Joined: Oct 2007
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Shoot it first, see what if anything it needs. Of course I’ll shoot it first. Bed it in the after-market stock of your choice.
Jard trigger upgrade kit.
Keep the original trigger parts, as if you ever have to send it to Ruger for service they will remove the after-market trigger parts and sell you new original parts. Im buying it because I like the wood stock. Keeping it for sure. I’ll check out the jard trigger kit, and thanks for the advice on the trigger parts.
Last edited by ChanceD; 05/19/23.
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Joined: Dec 2002
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Dec 2002
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Shoot it first, see what if anything it needs. Of course I’ll shoot it first. Bed it in the after-market stock of your choice.
Jard trigger upgrade kit.
Keep the original trigger parts, as if you ever have to send it to Ruger for service they will remove the after-market trigger parts and sell you new original parts. Im buying it because I like the wood stock. Keeping it for sure. I’ll check out the jard trigger kit, and thanks for the advice on the trigger parts. I've been told by people who worked for Pine Tree Casting that Ruger does that for liability purposes.
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Joined: Dec 2006
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Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
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Bed the wood stock and float it
Click 2 coils off the trigger spring and polish and hone the surfaces. It's pretty easy to get a MKII/Hawkeye trigger down to 2.5-3lbs and crisp with the original parts.
When I die I hope I don't start voting democrat.
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Campfire Greenhorn
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Campfire Greenhorn
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I own several Hawkeyes.
I routinely replace the trigger spring and polish the mating surfaces in the trigger. It's very easy and takes about 30 minutes. When you're done you have a ~ 3lb trigger with a very simple (open) design that can be trusted in any conditions.
I personally believe Hawkeyes - especially the stainless ones - are a good value in today's rifle world (especially if one is a fan of 3-position safeties).
SR
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Joined: Oct 2013
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Make sure mag box is not binding and is floating.
The last time that bear ate a lawyer he had the runs for 33 days!
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Campfire Outfitter
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Make sure mag box is not binding and is floating. This
Always remember that you are unique, just like everyone else.
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Make sure mag box is not binding and is floating. Yep, absolutely check for that.
When I die I hope I don't start voting democrat.
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Joined: Dec 2010
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
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It's pretty easy to get a MKII/Hawkeye trigger down to 2.5-3lbs and crisp with the original parts. Yep. So simple a cave man could do it.
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Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
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Some good suggestions so far.
I would add that there are, or were, some good directions online for performing trigger work on the 77. If you screw it up or it is still not to your liking, then you can still buy an aftermarket trigger but you might save some money doing the trigger job yourself.
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Joined: Dec 2015
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Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Dec 2015
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i like to glass bed and float the barrel right away , i always take my new to me rifles apart and see how it fits in stock and clean the barrel channel out and reseal it too.
Last edited by pete53; 05/19/23.
LIFE NRA , we vote Red up here, Norseman
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Campfire Regular
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Thanks for all of your recommendations! I’ll definitely deal with the trigger myself. I’m going to shoot it first and then free float and bed the action just to test to see how much it helps. In my opinion, it always does help.
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Joined: Nov 2013
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Nov 2013
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Something I like to do with new (or old) rifles is to remove the firing pin and spring from the bolt, clean it and the empty bolt body with solvent, then lubricate with Dri-Slide, which won’t gum up the works. I also like to put a little moly grease on the lugs and other stuff that rubs against each other, just a touch does it.
Don’t mess with Dr-Slide in “sensitive locations” like on your wife’s tablecloth or white carpet!
What fresh Hell is this?
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Campfire Tracker
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IME you might be jumping the gun just a bit.............wait until you get the rifle.
I had a gun on order from Ruger for over a year.........they discontinued it at shot show and informed me, sure sorry about that !!!!!!!!
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Joined: Oct 2007
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Campfire Regular
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IME you might be jumping the gun just a bit.............wait until you get the rifle.
I had a gun on order from Ruger for over a year.........they discontinued it at shot show and informed me, sure sorry about that !!!!!!!! It’ll come, it’s coming from gunbroker, but I understand what you were saying.
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Joined: Aug 2010
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 48,264 Likes: 30 |
Some good suggestions so far.
I would add that there are, or were, some good directions online for performing trigger work on the 77. If you screw it up or it is still not to your liking, then you can still buy an aftermarket trigger but you might save some money doing the trigger job yourself. The LC6 on the Hawkeye is different than the old MK2 trigger. It generally only needs a lighter spring. I've clipped them like Heath suggested, but a lighter spring is the easy button and only costs about 40 cents at Ace. I'd lightly polish the sear, so it's smoother though. No honing or filing, like you would on a MK2 trigger. Here's what I'd do to the OP's rifle: 1. Glass bed. Leave the speed bump. Ruger designed the angled recoil lug and speed bump to work together. 2. Lighter trigger spring. 3. Check mag box for binding. If it is, fix it. 4. Polish the bolt and race ways. Make it run smooth like a model 70. 5. Work up a good load for it and hunt it.
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style. You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole. BSA MAGA
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The LC6 on the Hawkeye is different than the old MK2 trigger. It generally only needs a lighter spring. I've clipped them like Heath suggested, but a lighter spring is the easy button and only costs about 40 cents at Ace. I'd lightly polish the sear, so it's smoother though. No honing or filing, like you would on a MK2 trigger.
Here's what I'd do to the OP's rifle:
1. Glass bed. Leave the speed bump. Ruger designed the angled recoil lug and speed bump to work together. 2. Lighter trigger spring. 3. Check mag box for binding. If it is, fix it. 4. Polish the bolt and race ways. Make it run smooth like a model 70. 5. Work up a good load for it and hunt it. These are things I would like to do but am a little afraid of dicking something up in the process.
There are 2 rules to success:
1. Never tell everything that you know.
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