Home Forums Reloading Big Game Rifles Powder Measuring

My education in reloading goes back to the early 80s. I had a buddy who'd owned his own gun store and custom ammo mfg. He showed me how one evening. He used an RCBS powder measure (don't remember the model) and we loaded 30-06 together. 15 years later, I started doing it myself.

It is from that initial lesson that I learned the proper way to use a powder measure was to move the barrel up smartly to receive the charge and then down to dispense it. The trick was to do it as close to the same way each time to minimize charge-to-charge differences.

When I got my RCBS Rock Chucker Master Kit, it came with a Uniflow measure. I assembled and used it as I remembered. I've had decent luck with it over the years. However, I noticed a drift when I was loading, usually towards a higher weight. There might be a drift of +.5 grains over 20 rounds. I eventually started throwing low and adding with a trickler. Nowadays I have a Hornady Auto-Charge that pretty much does the same thing.

I saw a Youtube yesterday that got me to thinking. A fellow was showing "THE CORRECT" way to use a powder dispenser. His method was completely the reverse. First off, he was slow and gentle with his strokes. His first stroke delivered the powder to the case and then rotated it up to fill for the next round. Is that really more correct? Does it make any bloody difference?

Second, he said that you should always use the small volume cylinder for everything. I've got both cylinders, and use the small one for pistols, and the large for everything else.

For the most part, I'm not using my Uniflow much these days. As I said, I got the Auto-Charge a while back, and it does a reasonable job. I've also gotten a Hornady LNL Auto-Progressive that came with its own powder measure. It's taken on the bulk of my pistol loading.

Still, I'm wondering. How do y'all use a powder measure?

The "correct way" is subjective.

Some powders meter differently than others and demand different "techniques", but a baffle in the hopper helps dramatically to lessen any drift.

The correct way, is the way that gets the job done as efficiently as possible and with the least amount of fiddledickin' around.

I'd echo FA. The powder baffle minimized the drift from a full hopper to a low hopper since the same amount of "pressure" is on the drum from start to finish.

Yup a baffle properly positioned in a uni flow cures alot of the drift problem and cures the flake powder problem. Proper procedure is finding what works for you. Got a 80’s Hornady Deluxe measure that i have never used the small metering stem only the large whether pistol or rifle, my uniflow is just the opposite never have used the large drum. 35-40 years practice on something does help in understanding what proper operation in your usage means.

I bought a powder baffle for my Uniflow very early on. While it changed the drifting towards heavier charges, it did not make it go away.

Do any of you reverse the operation of the measure from the recommended procedure? That is, do you start with the drum raised to the top, dispense the charge and then return it back up? I've never done that, and I'm wondering what others have found.

Mind you, for the most part I have gone to the Hornady LNL AutoCharge for about 90% of my rifle reloading. This is just a question out of curiosity.

What got me out of the habit of using the Uniflow was large stick powders, particularly H4831 and H4831 SC. I was having a terrible bridging problem. I tried every trick you guys could offer me to no avail. One throw would be 5 grains under and then I'd get 5 grains over on the next charge. For that particular project, I fashioned a dipper out of an old 30-06 case and then dumped it into the pan of my 5-0-5 and then trickle up. For a while there, I was finding this rather primitive method gave me excellent results and I ended up making similar dippers, one for each of my rifle chamberings that used stick powders.

Then I found a Hornady LNL Auto-Charge on sale at Natchez for a ridiculous price and decided to make the jump.

I have kept the dippers for when I am working up a load at the shooting bench. A dipper, a trickler and a small electronic scale are all I need.

Curiousity? Well, every time I go down to the bench I see my Uniflow sitting there, and I wonder to myself how I might get it back in the game. There is bound to be a project that will require charging a tray full of primed brass somewhere in my future.

For 35-40 years now. Feels more natural.

The best way is to be consistent from drop to drop with whichever method one chooses. My preference is to raise the handle smoothly and wait for a moment for the powder to settle. Then use a smooth stroke to finish. A baffle helps keep the pressure consistent from drop to drop.

Of course the type of powder, ball or stick, is the big factor on volume measuring. I've tried a lot of different manual manipulations of the handle & I still can't recommend the best technique.

I took the vibrator out of an old cell phone & glued it to a small plate along with a AAA battery & a mercury switch. I attached this via the handle screws. For my first tests, I adjusted the switch to come on with handle in powder "receive" position. My next test I reversed the switch to come on in the "drop" position.

My conclusion was that all this was a waste of time & bought a RCBS Chargemaster.

Another technique I have adopted through trial and error with garden variety dispensers like Redding...I glued in another baffle, spray graphite the drum and body once a year, and I tap against the stop both directions, and I maintain a fairly uniform column of powder in the hopper...always above the top baffle.

About the same as Flintlocke, except no baffle and I keep the hopper about half full. Still throw light and trickle though. Handgun ammo gets loaded on my Dillon Square Deal B and all that powder meters well

As already mentioned, different types of powder need a different “knock” on the drum. The baffle really help but also maintaining powder level in the hopper really helps to prevent charge weight changes. Keeping the powder weight/level (downward force on the baffle) in the hopper the same makes a difference.

Stick powders are going to make problems for you every so often, so you just need to deal with it.
When I get a hangup with stick powders, I know it's going to be heavy. I'll drop it in the scale pan and with a babies spoon remove the excess powder instead of dumping the whole charge.

I only use the large volume drum. I use the Micrometer Adjustment Screw instead of the screw that comes with the standard model so I can quickly return to a different load measurement. I always start with the drum down (empty chamber).

Holy schidt, don't trust about 90% of what you see on youtube. There's a lot of stupidity there.

That's sad man. I use my Uniflow on a very regular basis. When I drop ball powders, or fine powders, I can drop right from the Uniflow to the case. It is very quick. Charges stay well within/less than a tenth of a grain. Pretty much spot on with every charge. When I drop powders like H4350, I drop light and trickle in the rest. Like micincolorado said, if a long kernel hangs up, like they do every once in a while, I know it's going to weigh heavy. I automatically tap a few kernels into the trickler, weigh, and then trickle the rest into the pan. Very simple and fast enough. Weighing a charge in this manner takes an average of 6 seconds. Charging cases directly from the powder measure (Uniflow) with ball powder is extremely fast: Where I can charge 50 cases in less than 2 minutes. So that works out to about 2-2.5 seconds per case. Even if I'm charging 308w with CFE223 (as an example) where I'm putting 45.5 gr's in each case. It's fast, and very efficient. When done properly, accuracy/precision isn't harmed and it is a very safe operation. Always eyeball your cases in the loading block, before stuffing a bullet on top.

Handloading to me is a hobby so never thought much about speed except the bullet leaving the muzzle. Speed will come with the practice of doing things slow, precise and exactly the same enough times. Also the flaws in your procedure will show themselves in some fashion.

Or...just upgrade your technology.

I use a Lee Perfect Powder Measure. I'll use the same motion with each stroke. I like to throw and weigh 10 charges and divide by 10 to get a more accurate weight of the average charge. Then just spot check every 5th or 10th round. I've not yet been convinced that consistent volume isn't as good or better than consistent weight. Volume is what you are getting from these powder measures. If I feel a crunch or anything abnormal, I'll either dump that charge back in the hopper or at least weigh it.

My technology works exactly the same each and every time. Works in sub zero to 110*, rain, shine or snow flawlessly. Also works day or night, no electricity required. Never have to worry about a brain board, digital display or other malfunction unless I close my eyes and have a massive brain fart.

KISS principle in full use.

What does the factory RCBS uniflow baffle even look like?

I made my baffle out of the side of a metal IMR4831 can. I cut a piece out, bent it at not quite 45 degrees, cut it to fit down in the hopper and reasonably fit all around the circumference, then cut an adequate "V" notch out of one side of it. It rests at the bottom of the hopper. Other than stick powder catching and cutting every once in a while I've never had any unacceptable high or low. It's extremely accurate with ball powder and within a couple or three tenths with stick powder....which I throw light and dribble up anyway. I never fill the hopper up all the way unless I'm doing a big run because I hate unloading any unused powder. Mine's mounted to a stand and not convenient to take off and dump, so I twist the micrometer all the way out and run it through the measure back into the jug. I only fill what I think I'll need. So my baffle works fine no matter how full it is.

I just use the same stroke,sometimes i have to re do some because of the IMR logs.

I also put an o-ring between the lock nut washer thing and the nut on that holds the drum in the measure.

Keeps it from moving.

I do use the small plug for everything.

I have become somewhat bubba with age
I am no longer interested in velocity ES/SD and don’t even chrono. I test for accuracy and shoot for dope.
As I shot more I begrudged weighing and trickling.
I tested my Uniflo and Harrrel over 50 charges with my desired charge of 53gr VVN160.

Uniflo - Max 53.3, Min 52.6

Harrel - Max 53.7, Min 52.5

Using the Uniflo I can hit the 0.5MOA prairie dog at 500yds. ie it shoots better than I can.
The Harrel operates within the tolerance of my scales with ball and VVN133 but not coarse powder.