Home Forums Reloading Big Game Rifles Powder Measuring

If a load is well developed, then a number of other ducks need to be in a row before +/- a tenth means much at all.

I know the comment was about seeing it on the scale. My question was about the relevance of that as it applies to the target.

You got that right. Only powder I have ever trickled is 4831. Everything else comes out of the Uniflow close enough for hunting loads (of course if you are shooting BR or similar, it might make a provable difference but in that case 4831 is not your huckleberry).

You got that right. Only powder I have ever trickled is 4831. Everything else comes out of the Uniflow close enough for hunting loads (of course if you are shooting BR or similar, it might make a provable difference but in that case 4831 is not your huckleberry).

There were slightly more of these top shooters used a high-end, $500+ scale like the Prometheus or pharmaceutical-grade scales like those from Sartorius and others. One interesting note is that the shooters who placed in the top 4 were all using one of these really high-end scales. Beyond that, the distribution seen in the graph above was virtually identical through the entire group of the top 100 PRS shooters regardless of rank.

Prometheus Gen II Powder Measure The $500+ scales are typically capable of resolution and accuracy down to a single kernel of powder, or even better! Not one grain … one kernel. A single kernel of Hodgdon H4350 gun powder (which 73% of these guys use) weighs between 0.02 and 0.03 grains. 0.02 grains = 1.3 milligrams. So if you purchase a milligram scale, you should be able to weigh down to the nearest kernel. I’ve heard rumors of guys in other shooting disciplines slicing powder kernels to get even finer increments. I’d be shocked if any of these practical/tactical shooters are going to that extent, but there is always a handful of people that take everything to the extreme. If you’re reading this (or writing it), you’re probably that guy at times!

The statement was just concerning the sensitivity of the scale and trickling, nothing more, nothing less.

Since you've obviously got an opinion that you're chomping at the bit to expound, by all means burn up some bandwith....

For all I know you're an F-Class High Master and you can prove the difference at 1000 yards.

My opinion is that a large percentage of handloaders spend a lot of time weighing powders to fractional gnat's ass increments to no real benefit in their application. If it makes them feel better about what they're doing that's perfectly OK.

For all I know you're an F-Class High Master and you can prove the difference at 1000 yards.

My opinion is that a large percentage of handloaders spend a lot of time weighing powders to fractional gnat's ass increments to no real benefit in their application. If it makes them feel better about what they're doing that's perfectly OK.

The best way is to be consistent from drop to drop with whichever method one chooses. My preference is to raise the handle smoothly and wait for a moment for the powder to settle. Then use a smooth stroke to finish. A baffle helps keep the pressure consistent from drop to drop.

What does the factory RCBS uniflow baffle even look like?

I made my baffle out of the side of a metal IMR4831 can. I cut a piece out, bent it at not quite 45 degrees, cut it to fit down in the hopper and reasonably fit all around the circumference, then cut an adequate "V" notch out of one side of it. It rests at the bottom of the hopper. Other than stick powder catching and cutting every once in a while I've never had any unacceptable high or low. It's extremely accurate with ball powder and within a couple or three tenths with stick powder....which I throw light and dribble up anyway. I never fill the hopper up all the way unless I'm doing a big run because I hate unloading any unused powder. Mine's mounted to a stand and not convenient to take off and dump, so I twist the micrometer all the way out and run it through the measure back into the jug. I only fill what I think I'll need. So my baffle works fine no matter how full it is.

One thing I find interesting is the number of fellow tricklers responding. I've been here at the 'Fire for over 20 years, and I can say that the early campers thought a trickler was the most useless piece of kit ever devised.

$9 on Amazon

This has been an interesting thread.

One of my questions still remains: What was I doing wrong? The Uniflow is one of the standard bits of reloading kit. As soon as I started to see problems, I added the baffle. Still, for about 10 years, I kept having problems with that fairly constant positive drift in charge weights. For a good long while, cranking it down a little every 5-10 rounds seemed to be the only solution. At some point, my MIL died and I found a 115 volt personal vibrator in with her effects. I started using it to massage the column of powder a little. That didn't work either.

This has been an interesting thread.

One of my questions still remains: What was I doing wrong? The Uniflow is one of the standard bits of reloading kit. As soon as I started to see problems, I added the baffle. Still, for about 10 years, I kept having problems with that fairly constant positive drift in charge weights. For a good long while, cranking it down a little every 5-10 rounds seemed to be the only solution. At some point, my MIL died and I found a 115 volt personal vibrator in with her effects. I started using it to massage the column of powder a little. That didn't work either.

spray graphite the drum and body once a year, and I tap against the stop both directions, and I maintain a fairly uniform column of powder in the hopper...always above the top baffle.