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This isn't so much a gunsmithing question as it is a woodworking question..I want to get a nice shine on some Garand stocks I'm refinishing. I'm looking for a nice gloss, but not mirror. I'm refinishing with raw linseed oil. What can go on top of that that will give that shine?

We have always used beeswax on gun stocks, followed up by linseed oil.

What particular reason are you using raw linseed oil? Sloooooow drying (if it ever really dries). At Springfield Armory they used either linseed oil or tung oil (interchangeably, based on which the procurement officer could get the best deal on), by dipping the stocks in hot vats of it.

My advice: snag some artists-grade linseed oil, and finish with that.

Begs the question, why put the barrier coat on first to impede the oil's absorption into the wood?

I confess that I'm ignorant about woodworking and have been getting my limited information from the other folks at the CMP forums. Typically, folks there use boiled linseed oil, raw linseed oil or tung oil.

Based on what folks there said, it seemed that boiled linseed oil was the way to go because of the drying agents therein. However, I was finding that it was never really drying, remaining forever tacky. My technique was to apply a coat, wait 20-30 minutes, and then remove the excess with a dry rag (although there was never a ton of excess).

Unhappy with the perpetually tacky BLO stock, I decided to try raw linseed oil, and I'm finding that it dries quickly, at least to the touch, when hanging outside for a few hours and then inside overnight. Perhaps it's not really dry but it certainly feels dry, unlike the stock with the boiled linseed oil. One stock that has more coats does take longer, so that gets a coat only once every couple of days. But with both stocks being treated with RLO there is a clear evolution from obviously wet to obviously dry, unlike the BLO.

Here is a stock I'm working on now with linseed oil, along with a photo of it stripped and cleaned, pre-oiling. This stock in particular will, I believe, pop more with more shine than I'm getting with linseed oil alone, and I'm probably at 6-8 applications now. The first one or two applications were a mix of linseed oil and mineral spirits to aid in penetration. A 4 digit Garand with dark park will live in it.

So, what can go on top of RLO that will give the stock a good shine?

Wouldn't try to put anything on top of raw linseed. For what you are trying to achieve, would suggest a modified oil like Lin-Speed or one of the many tung finishes.

Why is that? What is it about the raw linseed oil that makes it unsuitable? Because it never dries?

If so, will additional applications of RLO do what I need? One stock I have is definitely getting shinier with each application, but I don't know if the shine will increase or if it reaches a plateau of shine (a good name for a speed metal band?)

You can mix beeswax with BOL, requires some heat to get the wax to melt.


That mix would be the last few coats, which I would also wet sand.

Chem-Pak Pro-Custom Oil is what I always used though it has been many years. I would knock the gloss down with rottenstone. Brownell's is where I found it.

https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/gun-tools/stock-finishing/pro-custom-oil-gunstock-finish/

Danish Oil. I like the Walnut colored one. I do all my Mil-Surp referbs with it.
HERE is a little bit about it from a woodworker.

BLO cures fairly quickly.

BLO + Japan Drier cures much faster.

Raw linseed oil could take years to cure, if it ever does.

Raw linseed oil is a horrible choice for gun stocks.

Those are the simple facts about linseed oil.

That is what I have always heard, but I'm finding the opposite to be true.

In any case, what do you use to give a stock shine?

You may have a mislabeled or bad batch, of BLO that doesn't contained enough of the metallic drying agents that makes it cure. Add some Japan Drier or try a different brand.

In any case, you're spinning your wheels until you find a way to cure what you have, or strip it back and start over.

I don't do what you're attempting to do, but with a raw stock either maple or walnut I typically stain, then many coats of Tru Oil or BLO + Japan Drier, and then wax. For shine, which it isn't often that I want shine, I use Renaissance Wax and polish to a gloss with a soft cotton cloth.

Thanks for that insight. I read that Rennaissance doesn't produce shine but it's possible the person in that case didn't rub it a lot...not sure.

I would NOT touch BLO or tung oil straight up on a stock. It's 2024 , no reason to use a 1940 finish.

LinSpeed
Pro Custom
True oil

there are a few more. I use Velvet Oil but it's discontinued.

LinSpeed after stripping off the god awful red ruger 44 carbine stock. buff it with bees wax and a fine scotchbrite to knock it back

Very nice, thank you. I did some research into Tru-Oil but inferred from what I read that it is a product that one uses starting from the raw wood, not a product you use on top of an already finished stock.

If you have wax on the stock already, I see if alcohol can remove as much as possible. May have to sand it back to refinish.

really can't cover wax with a finish, maybe shellac but that is not a stock finish.

At

At present all I have on the two stocks is raw linseed oil. I'm looking for something to add shine, although not mirror like a fancy English shotgun.

I use WATCO danish dark walnut and steel wool. Had great results.

I don't think that's the right product for this case. I have already used RLO and am looking now to add shine. The product you're suggesting doesn't appear to do that.

Some stuff called Opie's oil , was cleaning and refinishing an old desktop, turned out after getting all the crud off it was cherry . Talked to the guys in woodcrafter's and they said Opie's oil , best stuff I ever saw for a refinishing job,doesn't take much,rubs on smooth ,just use a small felt pad a little goes a long .only drawback ,it is expensive. The little 6oz? Bottle was 64 bucks but it could do maybe 10 rifle stocks so I guess if you cost it out it's not so bad

The


The RLO is already on my stock. At this point I wish to find a product to add shine.

Something simply isn't adding up here. I'm beginning to wonder if this whole thread is about definitions. Are you positively absolutely sure you used RAW linseed oil? I've heard people claim to be using raw linseed oil when in truth it was boiled linseed oil that they used in a "raw" (to them) state without adding anything to it. Real-for-real raw linseed oil will take forever to dry if in fact it ever really does - and if you've heard otherwise then your source of information is highly suspect.

The only reason for raw linseed oil to exist is for adding a bit to oil-based house paint to make it flow better, or for home alchemists to use as the basis for adding their own dryers and whatnot to make their own finish. If you have adulterated two stocks with the stuff you've treated them to the worst most inefficient finish possible.

If it were my project I would give them a long soak in acetone to eradicate as much of that stuff as I could, then start over from scratch and at least use something billed as an "oil finish" because at least it'll have some redeeming qualities to it.

I have a stock that has been treated with linseed oil. It looks great.

I am looking for a product that will now give the stock more shine.

Since Johnson paste wax ain't made anymore, you could give BRITWAX a try.
You need to keep Britwax in your fridge or it'll be too soft, almost liquid.
Minwax is another brand I've used. Just make damned sure that the stock is dry before you start waxing it.

Thank you. And to confirm: by dry do you mean simply dry to the touch, or the stock fully cured?

I mean dry as in the finish that you apply is fully polymerized(like how an epoxy dries). Drying times depend on the finish you use.
The Danish oil I've used takes almost a week to completely dry. 5 days at the least. Tung oil never seems to dry fast enough for me.

Oh yeah... You're welcome...

Well, I used raw linseed oil so I'll probably be waiting a while!

Buddy, I think you're just trolling. Go by what you "read" somewhere, instead of the experience of those who actually do it. Get a life.

Tru-Oil plus Renaissance Wax.......

I don't know who you're replying to nor why you wish to be rude.

I would like to try Tru-Oil based on the pictures of the results, but my understanding that you use Tru-Oil starting from a raw stock, not on top of linseed oil.

I have a stock treated with linseed oil. I wish now to get more shine and am looking for a product to do that.

Yeah, troll, we get that part.

Tru Oil will work over just about any existing finish as long as the surface has been prepared properly and the existing finish is well cured. A main ingredient in Tru-Oil is, SHOCKER HERE, linseed oil, and the rest is what's found in many other types of wood finish. Nothing mysterious.

Tell ya what, reach out to Sitka Deer, here on the 'fire. His name is Art in real life. He's like the wood finish guru around here. Maybe he's got time to educate you properly on your project. (my apologies Art).

By the way, you won't make a lot of friends around here with that whackado leftist bullshiit.......

There was a short hiccup in production of JPW, but it is readily available now.

Original BriWax is better for stock work as it is much harder.

I don't know why you think a forum member asking about how to treat a wood stock is trolling, nor why you'd continue to offer advice if you don't think my posts seeking advice are genuine. Moreover, I'm sorry you are unhappy that politics are permitted here. The admins encourage political content so that's a question for them.

As I said, I don't know about Tru-Oil or finishes. That's why I'm here seeking help.

Be happy with looks great. It's a M1.
If you wanted super shiny, why did you use linseed oil?

Degree of "shine" with an oil finish is entirely dependent upon wood surface treatment, regardless of finish used (as long as it's fully cured). The finer the finish abrasive the more shine.

Sanded to 220x or maybe 320x, oiled, and waxed with any quality paste wax is as far as I would take an M1 stock to avoid making it look like a pimped-up Bubba Special. As for waxes there's a bunch of good ones. I've settled on Renaissance Wax.

As for Hitler:Trump - really?

When I decided to refinish an old Garand stock I asked other folks in the CMP forums what they typically used. They generally try to get something approaching an original and/or authentic finish for Garand stocks so BLO, RLO and Tung are quite commonly used and recommended.

One cartouched stock I used RLO on looks good and has the appropriate amount of matte sheen - I wouldn't mind just a bit more shine on it so maybe I'll just try another coat or two of RLO, since there appears to be no kind of finishing wax that adds shine.

The other stock I'm doing (pictured here) isn't a cartouched stock so I'm not worried about authenticity. Moreover, as it's birch, I think more shine will help it pop. At this point, maybe it makes more sense to strip it and start over with Tru-Oil. I've already put some work into it, but since it's going to take, apparently, weeks or months to fully cure before I can put another product on top of it (assuming such a product exists, which it looks like it doesn't), I suppose I can just use that time to start over with Tru-Oil.

I've checked out Rennaissance Wax and it seems good to have around, generally, but I've inferred it does not add any shine and that you can't put it over RLO. If that's not true then I'd like to try it. I assume I'd have to wait until the RLO fully cured first?

I have already provided you a recipe for making LO shiny. Or a least shinier.

Trust me, Ren Wax shines. Putting any wax over RLO would be like trying to polish a turd, at least not until you've reached retirement age while waiting for it to cure.

Thank you. I think what now seems to make the most sense for this particular stock would be to strip it and start over with Tru-Oil or similar.

Hey, now THERE'S an idea......

You need to seal the wood before you start fooling around with the finish. Cut your finishing oil 50/50 with mineral spirits. TruOil is good. I use Minwax Antique Oil. Mix in a few drops of Japan Drier. Hang the stock and slop it on until it won't absorb any more and let it dry for a few days. Once it dries the real work starts.

Edit: your final finish is directly proportional to the quality of the wood. You can't polish a turd.

The reason my statement made no sense is because I didn't understand the process my dad was using. I had it completely wrong. I just remembered helping him fix up stocks on [new to us] old guns that needed a lot of TLC.

common to use a spit coat of sealer on open grain wood though I never used wax. fill the grain, sand then stain or finish.

I used shellac (not the best choice) on a stock before using the oil.