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Originally Posted by cumminscowboy
Originally Posted by Big Stick
Originally Posted by cumminscowboy
Originally Posted by Big Stick
My Optika6's were pieces of fhuqking schit and Reupold-esque in their "tracking". Hint.

Just sayin'...........
he needs a set and forget it scope. for that the optika's should be fine. I wouldn't use one for a heavy dialer either.



cumsincowboys,

Gals who "know" and "do" as "much" as you,will always be BEST served by asking questions,rather than giving "answers"...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?

Keep installing hose clamps in Playgrounds,you Magnificently Stupid Fhuqk. There are no "Set And Forget" scopes,that is a contrived Drooler's Notion(s). If schit don't track or repeat,rest assured it will NOT fhuqking hold zero either. Now even you "know". Hint.

Fhuqking LAUGHING!.............

big stick, false. I lapped the hell out of the rings in my scope fixture and which allowed me to set the scope only in the bottom half of the rings and I could get it to RTZ taking it in and out of the rings. this allowed me to do various things to the scope. Drop it from 2 feet onto a park table. use it as a club on a plastic trash can. wrap the palm of my hand with the objective bell. NOTHING I could do would get my optika 5 to move zero. in fact when impacting the scope on 9 o clock onto the palm of my hand, IE right against the leaf spring inside the erector. I could actually feel the spring compressing and the erector slap inside the scope! still no zero shift. if you think about this, its makes sense. unless something breaks inside the scope it should hold zero. The erector is held under spring tension against the turret adjusters. Its not a scope that I feel as a dialing scope, I honestly don't remember why I felt that way or what the scope did, I didn't buy it as a dialer. after what I did to it, I trust it as set and forget.

big stick might be subtly smart in ways you have to search to find. but some other people aint stupid either.

When 99% of people who use Optikas can get what they want out of them and 1% can't, it's certainly not the 1% that is the issue.

GB1

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PaulaBurnedHard,

Be SURE to start a Thread,when you fire the first live round of the year...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?

Dangle a picture of YOUR rifle,which you use to "test" scopes. It WILL be funnier than fhuqk. Then dangle a pic of your Chinese Avatar,for even more oblivious humor,you Brokedick Crying CLUELESS Kchunt. Hint.

[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]

Fortunately for you,Imagination and Pretend are free,so even you can "afford" to "contribute". Ain't it a hoot,that you "get" to read about it and ogle The Splendid Pixels,from your Couchbound Kchunt. Pardon wares that exist. Hint.

[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]

Fhuqking LAUGHING!..............


Brad says: "Can't fault Rick for his pity letting you back on the fire... but pity it was and remains. Nothing more, nothing less. A sad little man in a sad little dream."
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Originally Posted by PaulBarnard
Originally Posted by cumminscowboy
Originally Posted by Big Stick
Originally Posted by cumminscowboy
Originally Posted by Big Stick
My Optika6's were pieces of fhuqking schit and Reupold-esque in their "tracking". Hint.

Just sayin'...........
he needs a set and forget it scope. for that the optika's should be fine. I wouldn't use one for a heavy dialer either.



cumsincowboys,

Gals who "know" and "do" as "much" as you,will always be BEST served by asking questions,rather than giving "answers"...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?

Keep installing hose clamps in Playgrounds,you Magnificently Stupid Fhuqk. There are no "Set And Forget" scopes,that is a contrived Drooler's Notion(s). If schit don't track or repeat,rest assured it will NOT fhuqking hold zero either. Now even you "know". Hint.

Fhuqking LAUGHING!.............

big stick, false. I lapped the hell out of the rings in my scope fixture and which allowed me to set the scope only in the bottom half of the rings and I could get it to RTZ taking it in and out of the rings. this allowed me to do various things to the scope. Drop it from 2 feet onto a park table. use it as a club on a plastic trash can. wrap the palm of my hand with the objective bell. NOTHING I could do would get my optika 5 to move zero. in fact when impacting the scope on 9 o clock onto the palm of my hand, IE right against the leaf spring inside the erector. I could actually feel the spring compressing and the erector slap inside the scope! still no zero shift. if you think about this, its makes sense. unless something breaks inside the scope it should hold zero. The erector is held under spring tension against the turret adjusters. Its not a scope that I feel as a dialing scope, I honestly don't remember why I felt that way or what the scope did, I didn't buy it as a dialer. after what I did to it, I trust it as set and forget.

big stick might be subtly smart in ways you have to search to find. but some other people aint stupid either.

When 99% of people who use Optikas can get what they want out of them and 1% can't, it's certainly not the 1% that is the issue.
That entirely depends on the applications and requirements. Is it possible that the 1% are using the scope in a way that demands it perform beyond the requirements of the 99%?

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Originally Posted by Azshooter
I had what I felt was the perfect scope for my Remington Ultimate Muzzleloader. It was the same SHV you are considering. It had the illuminated force plex.

I was twisting the turret to shoot it out to 300 yards with a 320 gr Fury bullet and then returning it to zero at 100 with plenty of shots in between at a steel plates in the desert. It was working quite well for several sessions. Then the scope's elevation turret suddenly died. It would not return to zero or place the POI where I wanted it at various distances. I called Nightforce and was flat out told it was my rifle certainly NOT THEIR PRODUCT!!!! As a control I placed a SWFA HD 5-20 x 50 on the rifle and it was back in business. It was too bad as I really thought the scope was perfect for my use on that rifle.

FYI I got my cow elk with that SWFA at 225 yd that year. You have better results with your rifle as it won't recoil anywhere near as much as that MZ does.

I've dialed mine a lot, and have never had an issue. The SHV series has ran pretty flawlessly for a lot of guys I know as well. A lot of guys I shoot with in local long range varmint silhouette matches use them. In that dicipline, you are constantly dialing up and down, which gives them a little workout. I don't know if you got a bad one (which is pretty unheard of), or you didn't tighten the set screws on the turret. I've had Leupolds quit tracking, and seen numerous Vortex crap out, but never have seen a Nightforce do that.


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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My .358 also wears a Nightforce SHV after eating up a POS Swarovski Z3. It will work perfectly for your needs.

IC B2

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Originally Posted by bsa1917hunter
I've had Leupolds quit tracking, and seen numerous Vortex crap out, but never have seen a Nightforce do that.

You just don't keelhaul your rifle and scope for a proper break-in (or break-it?) smirk

It's like an F-Distribution is statistics. If something is going to fail, it will likely do it right away. It it survives that, it'll likely go the distance.

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The NF is way overkill for 100 yard shooting.

The beauty of those scopes is in the integrity of the mechanical repeatability & reliability to dial up for longe shooting & back to zero.

Plenty of scopes for half the price to do what the OP wants.

Horses for courses......................but spend the money if you so choose, the NF will work fine.

MM

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For shooting hogs “in very dim light”, I’d be looking for something with an objective lens larger than 42mm.

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Originally Posted by shinbone
For shooting hogs “in very dim light”, I’d be looking for something with an objective lens larger than 42mm.

Objective size never trumps lens and lens coating quality, nor ones knowledge and ability to properly adjust a scope for optimum performance in low light situations!

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I have two of the Accupoint 3-9s and my only slight gripe is that the ER is a bit tight on the top end, which so far I’ve not used in the field, except to see if I was steady enough off my sticks at close to 300 yards, on a deer I couldn’t shoot that particular day. I did shoot a couple using one at 3x, the first at about 50 and the second at something over 100 a minute later. That 3-9 is one of the lighter Trijicons, maybe the lightest, and one of the most affordable at about $650 street. The fiber optic shows up well if there’s any skylight above you, but if you hunt from a roofed blind you’re left with a straight duplex unless it’s dark enough for the tritium to show, which is pretty dark. A battery-powered reticle is better under those conditions because it gives you more control, but then there’s the battery to deal with.

As was mentioned, Bobby Tomek has run through a whole bunch of illuminated scopes and can steer you to ones that have worked for him.


What fresh Hell is this?
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I may be the Luddite in the crowd, but I would just find an older Leupold 6 x 42 with heavy duplex reticle. I can’t think of a better scope for low light and 100 yards or closer shooting.


Anybody who seriously concerns themselves with the adequacy of a Big 7mm for anything we hunt here short of brown bear, is a dufus. They are mostly making shidt up. Crunch! Nite-nite!

Stolen from an erudite CF member.
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Originally Posted by RickF
I may be the Luddite in the crowd, but I would just find an older Leupold 6 x 42 with heavy duplex reticle. I can’t think of a better scope for low light and 100 yards or closer shooting.
Seems I’ve read those fixed powered leupolds may be more fool proof, fewer parts to mess up and maybe a slight edge on optical performance due to fewer lenses.

Those who really know may want to chime in.

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Originally Posted by Ghostman
Originally Posted by shinbone
For shooting hogs “in very dim light”, I’d be looking for something with an objective lens larger than 42mm.

Objective size never trumps lens and lens coating quality, nor ones knowledge and ability to properly adjust a scope for optimum performance in low light situations!

Tell me more, please, on a larger objecive lens with the same coating does not have an advantage on on a smaller lens with equal coating in a low light scenaro?

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As I understand, up to a point. Your pupil can only dilate to 5mm, so anything over that can be wasted, i.e. a 7mm exit pupil. That is assuming all other factors are equal.

Again, as I understand, inequal coatings and tube diameters can affect outcome, and some say the various 20mm objective scopes, even though they have an exit pupil of 5mm, don't do as well as larger objective/magnification combos.

We can shoot a half hour before and after sunrise/sunset, and most any decent quality scope can do that. I've used an SHV at those times and had no problems, but I'll be the first to admit that the half hour thing is not that challenging. For true night hunting, I used NV with an illuminator. A thermal works good, too.

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I ran a SHV first focal for half a day. The eye box was super tight and close to the scope. Very narrow window to catch good eye relief. Plus the eye relief was at like 3.2 inches. Hard pass on those for me

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Originally Posted by Vic_in_Va
Your pupil can only dilate to 5mm, so anything over that can be wasted, i.e. a 7mm exit pupil.

Average pupil size in normal light is 5mm. Your pupil can get a whole lot bigger than that in low light.


I can walk on water.......................but I do stagger a bit on alcohol.
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If you a young 'un. I understand about 7mm if you are young. 5mm when you get older. I've gotten older....

Anyway, that's going on information I've gotten through the years, seems consistent with my experiences. I've never ran a test with standardized charts and light meters, just at times wished I had better optics. I did notice a loss of performance once I got around the 5mm point.

I literally had to wait a few minutes to shoot a deer feeding in a field in pre-dawn, I could see him in my binocs and scope, but not with a naked eye. Scope was a 3.5-10X40, it was on 3.5x, he was just over 130 yards away. Shot him the instant proper time came up on my cell phone.

Reason for that was a day or two earlier, a Game Warden drove up to where my small group typically gathered and asked if any of us had shot after such-n-such time, so we knew he was watching the clock.

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The Trijicon Credo 3-9x40 will work very well for the OPs stated purpose. Mine took me to 30 minutes after sunset, under the canopy, with overcast skies this past season. Illumination control is outstanding. They are easy to get behind, not fussy and have good eye relief. For $550 I think they are a solid value.

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My Trijicon 1-8x Credo HX was/is a mechanical disappointment. While the view and everything unassociated with steering bullets is nice,it simply hasn't the guts to arrange POA/POI,nor retain zero. Hint.

[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]
[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]
[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]
[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]
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Bought a coupla NightFarce NX8 1-8x FFP DM-X's and rather like 'em. Will throw the Trijicon in a drawer and flog on the NF instead. Hint.

[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]
[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]

To be continued. Hint.............


Brad says: "Can't fault Rick for his pity letting you back on the fire... but pity it was and remains. Nothing more, nothing less. A sad little man in a sad little dream."
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Thanks to all for the opinions and experiences. I would like to stay in the $1,000 budget range. Thoughts on that or opinions?


Rolly
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