Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Optics Scope adjustments..200/300 yards

Help me out guys..
My lupy has 1/4 clicks. I have it zero'd at 200 yds. How many clicks in elavation up to get a 300 yd zero?

The bullet will drop 9 inches from 200 to 300.

At 200 yards 1 click is a 1/2 inch correct?
How many clicks to move 1 inch at 300 yards?
How many clicks to move 9 inches at 300 yards?
Thanks, Ken

At 300 yards 1 click is 3/4", so 2 clicks is 1 1/2". To move 9" at 300 yards would require 12 clicks

Things are easier-for me anyway-if you use 100yards as your baseline. How high do you have to be at 100yd to be on at 300yd and then make your clicks from there.

It doesn't matter if he is zero'ed at 200 yards, the fact that he is 9" low at 300 determines the number of clicks or "come-ups" needed for 300 yards

Ok, I'm not sure if I know what you mean.
I want to keep the 200 yd zero and I believe that puts the bullet about 2" high at 100 yds. Whats next?

Your answer is here






What else are you looking for?

JWP,your first answer was good and helpful, 12 clicks was the answer I had in mind also. I do want to keep a 200 yard zero so my original question was answered.Thanks.
If some else has a differnt way of doing things or a different way of explaining it, I'm all ears, thats how we learn, Ken

Be sure and test those figues at the range and they can vary from scope to scope.

Be sure and test those figues at the range and they can vary from scope to scope.

You can say that again...grin.

DJ

Only if the scope doesn't track properly

I know what you mean, but it is easier for me to think in relation to 100yds as dead on, +2in (8clicks) in this case for 200yd, then perhaps +5in at 100yards for a 300yard zero. With the 100yard baseline all clicks are in 1/4in instead of using 3/4s to go from 200 to 300yards.

IOW I use a 100yard zero and move up from there instead of a 200yard zero base.

If I guy is gonna get into clickin' and dickin' <grin> then what *I* find to be most intuitive and generally most user friendly is something along the lines of what battue is saying. To wit:

Zero at 100 yards. Zero your turret.

You want to run a 200-yard zero in the field? Easy. Click up to it. You want to run a 300 yard zero? Same-same. You want to run a 500 yard zero? Click up to it.

That last is a bit tongue in cheek since nobody runs a 500-yd zero. But the nugget o' truth is right there. Once you start clicking, you are, in essence, re-zeroing your scope.

BUT, I like the 100-yd zero baseline for a couple reasons. First, most of the time, I actually prefer to have my rifle zeroed at 100 yards due to the fact that I hunt in thick stuff close up much of the time. Second, finding a spot to check a 100-yd zero, or to re-zero after changing scopes or whatever, is really easy. 300 yards, not so much.

In essesence it doesn't matter how one does it. Figure it out, write your ups on a card and have it handy. I just like to work with the 1/4click format.

I have never heard of anything so utterly complicated.........after listening to this stuff I wonder how I ever managed to kill anything the past 30+ years.......whew......

Only on the internet do we have game animals standing around long enough at 300 yards so you can click up to a 300 yards zero.......or guys so good off -hand in the brush that they can actually detect a 1/2 to 1" rise in bullet trajectory at 50-100.....especially when dealing with an animal with a 12" vital zone.....honestly this stuff is funny, no wonder the poor OP..

JWP is right about adjustments.........for years the objectives was to get and maintain a proper zero in a hunting rifle.Once attained you NEVER touched it............I wouldn't trust 2/3's of the scopes out there to reliably and consistently click to the right place every time....and it's especially unnecessary to 350-400 yards if you choose the right cartridge and know how to use it.Maybe this stuff is good for hitting golf balls at 400 yards.....but for big game this is a waste of time.....at least to the distances mentioned.

Bob,

I agree and disagree. Much of this isn't needed on BG animals and out to 300 top of the back hold will get the job done with most cartridges.

Where I disagree is that no one mentioned anything about detecting or caring about a 1/2 to 1in rise in trajectory at 50 and 100yards or shooting offhand, nor is it complicated. The third thing is that I'm not shooting at 300yards-we both know it would be rare for 300 to be the exact distance-unless the animal is standing around long enough for me to get into a solid field position. Spinning a turret would not change the amount of time it took to do so.

From your posts I think we practice much the same. A little bench and more messing around from field positions at various distances. I can tell you that for me my hitting percentage has increased and group size decreased at 400 out to 500 by spinning turrets and holding dead on.

Addition: If I ever do decide to shoot at those ranges and probably that will never occur, my confidence to do so is greater now. Like most learning curves it usually evolves small steps that eventually add up to a long stride.

In a previous PM I told you my furthest shot on game has been at 335yd and as someone else has posted the less space between me and an animal the more I like it. I made it with a fxIII 4x with a 3min dot. So yes turrets are not necessary at the ranges you mentioned. However, they do add another advantage to shooting longer range once one becomes familiar with them. Holding dead on is never a disadvantage and at the ranges I'm writing about the clicks have been more than consistent enough to take advantage of the ability to do so.

I've had lots and lots of Leupolds over the last almost 40 years, and I've learned that seldom do they consistently track w/ the legend. The best I've had have been older M8 4x28s (won a silhouette match w/ one on a 30-06 decades ago, "dialed in" each set of targets). Bottom line here - the click factor is a crap shoot; you are likely in for a lot of correction/over correction until it slowly moves where you want it. Once there, my experience is that they stay. Really frustrating getting there, though.

I still believe they are the best scopes out there for reliability, but they are not perfect.

Battue I was not refering to you at all on this;t'was Jeff's post on the 50-100 yard stuff....Jeff O and I have this little conversation going about zeroing POA at 100 yards.....I say it's silly and he loves it.

A rifle zeroed for 275 yards is only about 3/4" high at 50.....no one can hold that finely under brush hunting conditions to matter,and handicapping themselves with a short range zero for brush shooting just makes no sense to me at all.

But now that you mention it.....

I understand turrets instill confidence at the range, but game shooting is different....targets stand stationary at known distance;animals don't.That buck that you lazed at 500,and clicked up to but missed,hits a draw and winds up at 350 yards below you....now what? You just changed the whole ballgame by messing with your zero!

Now, you are totally screwed.....good luck figuring that one out in the 5 seconds he gives ya!

I can't see a valid reason for touching a rifle's zero for shots to 400.Too much additional complication for me.To me, the theory of clicking evaporates in the realities of a lot of BG shooting.There is enough to worry about...I am not going to change my rifle's zero while I am hunting....at least for the distances I shoot.....

Things frequently break too fast in BG hunting to be messing with changing zero's OMHO.

And I never took any offense, your not the kind of man to throw it out there unless it is called for.

I just started messing around with turrets and I definitely see your point. Just trying to lean something new. But damn you have some fast Deer in your neck of the woods if they can cover 150yards in 5 seconds.

Ken, This may help you.
100 yrds one over four IE at 100 yards you have the one over the four which is 1/4 inch/click
200 = the two over the four 2/4 =1/2 inch/click
300 =3/4 = 3/4 inch/click
400 =4/4 =one inch/click
Clear as mud for you probably but it works for me. Dean