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After seeing that they have about 2 " of clearance before engaging, now after studying them, I think I will put the Tembrens on.

Then I won't have to fuss around with airing the bags up, letting it out, etc.


If God wanted you to walk and carry things on your back, He would not have invented stirrups and pack saddles
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Campfire Oracle
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I have Timbrens on my '11 250, and am thinking about bags. FWIW


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Originally Posted by ironbender
I have Timbrens on my '11 250, and am thinking about bags. FWIW


I didn't need to hear that. confused

Do you have the 5000 or 6000 lb Timbrens on your truck?

Last edited by saddlesore; 01/01/14.

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They are FR250SDF. Didn't know they had weight ratings - there's no info on that on the box. It's what six states sold.

http://www.etrailer.com/susp-2011_F...y.htm?style=&furl=-c1-4WD-pm-Timbren

Don't get me wrong, they do help. I'm not certain they are doing what I think they should be doing, in regard to steering control and handling, when they are fully compressed.

That's why I'm thinking about adding bags.


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On the left of that web page, you will see 5000,6000,8000 and 12000. To the right of the picture, it shows 6000.


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Vince, I put some aftermarket overload springs on my old dodge. Had some unbelievable loads on it.

http://www.maxloader.us/

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Already have overloads on it, factory installed. This is a HD 2500

Last edited by saddlesore; 01/01/14.

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Originally Posted by saddlesore
On the left of that web page, you will see 5000,6000,8000 and 12000. To the right of the picture, it shows 6000.
The question is, how much capacity do you need? Obviously you won't put 8000k on a 3/4 ton truck so are the 1800 lb'ers enough? Do they give any info on how to figure what you need? The air bags will go up to 5000k. The most I've had on mine so far is 60lb of air and that easily handled a ton of hay which is a little over the load rating. 100 lb is the max.


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That was the first page that came up when I Googled my model #.

I can't find that exact model.
..............................................

Looked some more and found this info:

Model: FR250SDF
Warranty: 5 Years Limited/250k Miles
GTW: 8600
Drill: No
http://www.thehitchstore.com/rear-timbren-suspension-system-p-2512.html

I also emailed Timbren to verify the weight capacity.

Another thought - your truck may be more stiffly sprung than mine. It's suspension is more like a sedan than a truck.

Bottom line?
Timbrens may do exactly what you want/need.

Air bags WILL do what you want/need.


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saddlesore.....maybe you could call up Timbren Co. and tell them exactly what you need before buying anything.......I called them prior to the install on my Dodge and found them to be pretty helpful folks

for whatever reason , my 97 didn't have any overloads at from the factory , you probably wouldn't need one of the heavier weight ratings

my son in law also put Timbrens on his 07 Dodge to keep the ride level with his heavy fifth wheel, that after he seen the way they worked out on my truck . He's real happy with the way they have worked for him .

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My truck is pretty stiffly sprung. Specs say the springs are 7500 lb capacity.
If I put the bumper pull horse trailer on empty, the overloads come in contact.TW for trailer is suppose to be 350 lbs empty.

1/2 the camper weight (750) lbs will be on the back axle and fully loaded trailer will have 750 lb tongue weight, 40% of 8800 lb truck wil be 3520 lbs.
Total will be 5020 lbs on rear.

Good idea to all Timbrens. I'll do that this AM

I called Timbrens( Canada) and spoke to the tech guy. He claims if I put a set of Timbrens on( DR3500B) that I won't need a weight distribution system. It will keep the back from sagging.
Any experience here from guys that have put them on?
$295.I can get the ligther ones for $199. The thing is, I don't want to spend $550 on a weight distribution system ( Reese hitch) and the $295 or $195 on the Timbrens or air bags if one will do the trick.

I think I am on the brink of information over load. confused

Last edited by saddlesore; 01/02/14.

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Originally Posted by saddlesore
...1/2 the camper weight (750) lbs will be on the back axle...


Wishful thinking, here. Most of the camper weight will be on the rear axle.


"There's more to optics than meets the eye."--anon

"...most of us would be better off losing half a pound around the waist than half a pound on our rifle."--dhg

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Originally Posted by pal
Originally Posted by saddlesore
...1/2 the camper weight (750) lbs will be on the back axle...


Wishful thinking, here. Most of the camper weight will be on the rear axle.
I agree. Half of the camper is behind the rear axle. An overshot camper will shift the COG forward but there's still a lot behind the axle.


β€œIn a time of deceit telling the truth is a revolutionary act.”
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Even if I rate the entire 1500 lb camper on the rear axle, I am still only loading it 5700 lbs on 7500 springs and axels.

Both the camper owners manual and the trucks specs show the CG of the camper about a foot and a half in front of the axles.

Last edited by saddlesore; 01/02/14.

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Weight distribution hitches are a great piece of equipment. Getting rid of most of the ball/coupler up and down movement makes the truck and trailer ride much nicer.
Almost went with the timbrens, but am going to get air bags due to the ability to adjust for different load conditions.
Good luck

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Just trying to get educated here, I know a lot about mules, more than a little about elk hunting and guns, but darn little about loading a truck and bumper pull trailer with camper in the truck.
Years and years ago I had a 70 Dodge 3/4 ton with an 8 ft slide in cab over camper and I pulled little two horse Stidham trailer.

Then I switched to a20 ft gooseneck stock trailer which is completely different in the loading and pulling aspect


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I don't know about bags (although all I have heard is good) but I do know about WD hitches. I would get the Equalizer brand. They are durable, simple, easy to hookup, include sway control, and you don't have to disconnect anything when you back up. I wouldn't mess with anything else, and I would hate to have to disconnect a sway bar before backing up. They are a bit more than the competition, but IMO it is totally worth it.

A WD hitch can transfer load to the front axle and the trailer axel, reducing bumper sag. This may reduce the need for bags. They are adjustable, and will make your bumper pull experience very enjoyable. Spend a bit of time messing with the setup to get it right and you will be a happy camper.

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I got a reply from Timbren. Mine are rated at 6000 lbs.



If you take the time it takes, it takes less time.
--Pat Parelli

American by birth; Alaskan by choice.
--ironbender
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Thinking more about it, I have to have the WD hitch to get my receiver hitch in the proper rating.It is 500TW/5000lbs with no WD system and 1000 lb TW/10,000 lb tow weight with one.

I might have to upgrade my receiver to the next level, but hope not.
My thinking on that is the receiver is rated for the tow weight and the tongue weight of the trailer itself. When choosing a WD system, you have to add the weight in the back of the truck aft of the axle. My tow weight should be about 7500 lbs max., and the tongue weight from that would be 750 if loaded right, but the TW for the WD system would be figured at 1500 since I have to add 1/2 the camper.



If God wanted you to walk and carry things on your back, He would not have invented stirrups and pack saddles
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