Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Bullet swaging

Interesting stuff, thanks!

Never swaged a jacketed bullet, only lead for a BP bench gun. Hammer dies let a fella dispense a lot of frustration.

No problem.

I've always believed that most of the shooting public has been taken in by the slicks that work for all the outdoor companies advertising departments. I'll get to the reasons why I think this toward the end of the post.

This thread is about bullet swaging. Specifically, taking cold lead and forming it under pressure into cylinders which are subsequently pressed into alloy bullet cups. Pouring lead into moulds and making cores is not swaging. At least, it doesn't become swaging until one presses the lead cores into the jackets.



Above - This is a bullet core being formed. Lead wire is squeezed into a uniform cylinder. Because lead is a dense metal, its weight will be consistent, core to core, when squeezed into a space of the same volume.

Below - This is excess lead being bled off in order to form that consistent cylinder. You can collect these, melt them down and make more cores. Wow, it's like, you're totally recycling stuff!



This is a basic mechanical task. Done properly, it produces a very well made, potentially accurate product. Why do I say potentially accurate? Because bullet construction is only one part of the accuracy triangle. Good bullets - Good shooting technique - Uniformly reloaded cartridges. If you're a crappy shot or assemble so-so cartridges, the best bullet or most expense rifle will not produce for you.

Jackets must be properly drawn, with no flaws. Their weight must be consistent. Cores must all weigh the same. Both must be free of oil and dirt. The final product must not have any air pockets inside that will upset the balance.

None of what I just wrote is difficult to achieve in your basement workshop. Like any skill, there's a learning curve, but the time taken to learn how to create bullets is well worth the bother.

I believe that it was the American Ben Franklin who once said, "Haste makes waste." This is never truer than when making bullets. None of the tasks requires a unique talent or wondrous gift. It demands you spend the time to do things correctly.

If you make bullets for yourself, removing all lubricant from the cores and jackets is vital. Weighing each core and jacket, then sorting them ensures the finished bullets will all have a consistent weight. Keeping your equipment clean keeps dust and dirt particles from scratching your die sets. It also keeps this crud from getting trapped inside the bullet jackets when they are assembled.

Here's one last picture of the cores. On the left, a finished core, ready for the lube to be removed. On the right, a raw core that was cut from a roll of lead wire. As you can see, this is truly high tech!



For all but dangerous game, standard .030 inch thick jackets are all I use for my 30/.31 calibre bullets. They are thick enough and get the job done with no fuss. If you check out the swaging websites, I believe that there are guys who will make thicker jackets for you, or you can buy the equipment and make them yourself. It all depends on how much money and time you are willing to invest.

This is a commercial 0.030 inch thick jacket. Is it enough for moose? Oh yeah!



For dangerous game, a lot of home bulletmakers cut copper pipe into segments and make their hunting bullets from these.

I could go on and on.

In no particular order, the reasons for making your own bullets are:

1. Creating the actual object that will take down the game. It's an extension of reloading. Not only did you create the cartridge; you made the bullet.

2. Bullet shortages are a non-event.

3. Metal price fluctuations don't affect you nearly as much. It is easier to get raw components to do the work yourself.

4. You can form the exact bullet you want. Example: I like protected points, so I make them. I can also produce pointed bullets and RNs. I am in complete control.

5. In the winter, when it's raining, or simply if you have an hour to kill, you can slip into your workshop and make some bullets. It's a relaxing hobby.

6. You are not at the mercy of the bullet manufacturers. If you have a favourite design or an odd ball calibre/cartridge, there's never a problem getting bullets.

Most hunters have been sucked into that old ad push - You've spent thousands on your hunt, why cheap out on bullets?

And they're right, you should be giving the bullet companies more of your pay check. Nosler, Sierra and Hornady all make magic bullets, infused with pixie dust that is guaranteed to kill game quicker and easier. I know that's what I do with mine! I buy pixie dust in bulk.

You cannot kill moose, elk, bears or even whitetails with old fashioned cup and core technology. Cup and core is the Edsel of bulletry. (Like that word? I just made it up.) Great bullets are fashioned from super-modern designs, and assembled with cutting edge equipment. Truly great bullets are made with patented (and secret) techniques and highly trained personnel. All this produces a bullet that will routinely kill game from any distance, at any velocity, shot from any direction.

Steve,

Thanks for the great pictures and instruction. I got a good chuckle over your tongue in cheek, cup and core commentary. I weary of the frequent bashing of cup and core bullets as if they somehow stopped working once the premiums hit the market.

Thanks again for the great information.

Mart

Passing fads can be annoying, particularly when some turn into zealots with bountiful emotion and little knowledge. It is a common burden some bear.

I did a dastardly thing to a deer some time back with a cup'n core. The cup was paper though and no trace remains.

I don't think anyone has mentioned that a partition type bullet can be swaged at home. To do this one swages lead in a short jacket that is undersized so that it will just slip into your main jacket. Then insert it mouth down and put the front core in the jacket and seat. Then run through the point die. Easier to do than explain. When shot into game the front half expands but, has to stop at the base of the short jacket which continues on. Bonded bullets? Yep but it takes a lot of work that most wouldn't do. Soft copper tubing can be drawn to produce a soft malable jacket similar to the first Barnes bullets. The world is at your fingertips when you swage.

Indeed it is.

It certainly depends on how much you shoot, your personal interests and your budget. Some people have expensive hobbies, but bullet making is useful and pays for itself over time. Men like John Nosler, Joyce Hornady, Dick and Vernon Speer demonstrated that with a little thought, you can manufacture good quality bullets and make money too.

More hunters should be making and using home made bullets, and that includes cast.



You�re welcome. New bullet innovations may stretch what we can do with certain cartridges, but not all of us need these techno-wonders. Others should not bother because frankly, they do not have the skills. I have firearms for every animal on the planet. I�ll just pick the cartridge I need and be done with it.

For those that do not have this option, copperized monoterrific or bonded bullets may help. But I think that betting on a mono-lethargic bullet to stretch a rifle�s capabilities is a mistake. Like I tell my students, use the right tool for the job. Marginal cartridges may work better with a monoterrific bullet, but I�ll pass thank you.