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Some people just can't admit when they are incorrect...even when presented the facts. I guess he isn't leaning too fast... I certainly can't "learn" from you when you are ignoring the problem How is it "incorrect" to state oiling the trigger will prevent rust? You're talking about oil causing problems, when the problem is water and rust The non-working parts which are not hard-chromed steel are of very suspect metallurgy and many rust immediately and quickly upon exposure to nasty weather, regardless of the cleanliness or protectants used.
One shot, one kill........ It saves a lot of ammo!
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Campfire Kahuna
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And there-in lies the rub... The non-working parts which are not hard-chromed steel are of very suspect metallurgy and many rust immediately and quickly upon exposure to nasty weather, regardless of the cleanliness or protectants used.
I believe there is enough to question whether it might be a dielectric reaction due to the speed.
Dielectric? What? Being both curious, and a metallurgist (at least by training), I just pulled mine down and had a look. The parts looked like steel, so I tried a magnet. All the parts of the trigger group that I could access, including trigger blade, housing, various pins and linkages, attracted the magnet, consistent with what I thought: it seems that it is all steel. Now it is not impossible that under adverse conditions these could rust, but the same is true of any blued steel or even your typical stainless as used in firearms. FWIW after nearly 30 years, including any number of extended periods hunting in rain, the trigger mechanism on mine had no rust at all. As I said a few pages back, I don't baby it either. In my direct experience the safety link is where corrosion starts. I suspect dissimilar metals in a saltwater bath generate electrical fields sufficient to accelerate corrosion by electrolysis... ie dielectric or galvanic corrosion.
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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Campfire Kahuna
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Some people just can't admit when they are incorrect...even when presented the facts. I guess he isn't leaning too fast... I certainly can't "learn" from you when you are ignoring the problem How is it "incorrect" to state oiling the trigger will prevent rust? You're talking about oil causing problems, when the problem is water and rust The non-working parts which are not hard-chromed steel are of very suspect metallurgy and many rust immediately and quickly upon exposure to nasty weather, regardless of the cleanliness or protectants used.
Sit down, take a few deep breaths and ponder the real problem... You have no clue what anyone is talking about and you would be far better off reading and not posting.
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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In my direct experience the safety link is where corrosion starts. I suspect dissimilar metals in a saltwater bath generate electrical fields sufficient to accelerate corrosion by electrolysis... ie dielectric or galvanic corrosion.
Yes, if you have dissimilar metals, an electrolyte (like salt water), and the right conditions, you can get galvanic corrosion. Nothing to do with dielectrics. But where is the dissimilar metal here?
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Campfire Ranger
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Having owned 2 Abolts, one Xbolt and numerous Vanguard and Howa rifles here are the major differences between the 2.
1. Drop forged receiver, simple bolt design that is completely field strippable.
Actually the Howa/Vanguard receiver is extruded. You can take the firing pin assembly out without tools on the Howa, while with the Browning you'd need a pair of pliers, vice-grips or similar (or a vice) to pull the cocking piece back. For stripping beyond that point both require tools - and much the same tools. No such thing as extruded metal receiver Dan. In the process of forging the metal goes into a specific shape. howa rifle link FWIW In several decades of hunting I've never had to strip a bolt, on any rifle, in the field, so the difference is moot. YMMV. That's because you don't have snow in OZ or sub freezing weather to deal with
2. X-bolts receiver bridge is so thin it requires the use of 4 screws on each scope base. 4 screws would be stronger than two too. Again have you seen how thin that receiver is , thread depth Dan thread depth.
The x-bolt has 2 advantages low bolt lift and lighter weight. Old and New vanguards are some of the most consistently accurate rifles one can buy with exceptional quality control.Too much cheap metal in the Abolt/Xbolt trigger and bottom metal. As far as I've seen, both are very accurate, and have very good QC, something the Japanese are very good at, owing, among other things, to work done post war by Americans like W Edwards Deming. As for the "cheap metal", it seems to me that quite a number of makers use aluminium alloy for bottom metal, not just Browning, and not for cost but lightness. In the trigger mechanism the working parts are hard-chromed steel. That is no aluminum alloy in the bottom metal of the Xbolt if it is it is cast aluminum not machined.
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You have no clue what anyone is talking about and you would be far better off reading and not posting. When you can't deny the facts, you turn it into a personal attack. You've been dodging the facts the whole time. You'd be better off oiling those triggers if rust is the problem If you're not smart enough to figure out how to do it properly, maybe you shouldn't be handling guns at all
One shot, one kill........ It saves a lot of ammo!
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No such thing as extruded metal receiver Dan.
There certainly are other extruded receivers, quite a number in aluminium (such as the Steyr SBS, and any number of AR15 type) but also steel, another example being the Remington 710. In respect of the Howa/Weatherby I'm going on what a representative from Weatherby has said about it. I understand that the change was made in about 2009. Like forging it is a plastic deformation process, and the use of extrusion for steel is growing. ...you don't have snow in OZ or sub freezing weather to deal with
That is going to come as news to proprietors of our ski resorts, and our skiers and snowboarders. It doesn't get as cold as Alaska, but we certainly do get snow, and in some prime deer habitat too. That isn't my photo, but I've certainly hunted in snow. Hunted in dust, desert mountains and the tropics too. Again have you seen how thin that receiver is , thread depth Dan thread depth.
How much loading do you think a scope mount can impose on the receiver? That is no aluminum alloy in the bottom metal of the Xbolt if it is it is cast aluminum not machined. I've read this several times, and have no clue what it is that you are saying here.
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Originally Posted By Oldelkhunter Again have you seen how thin that receiver is , thread depth Dan thread depth. You only need to engage two full threads to get the maximum strength from a screw Do you have any examples of receivers tearing apart from being too thin?
One shot, one kill........ It saves a lot of ammo!
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Campfire Kahuna
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Originally Posted By Oldelkhunter Again have you seen how thin that receiver is , thread depth Dan thread depth. You only need to engage two full threads to get the maximum strength from a screw Do you have any examples of receivers tearing apart from being too thin? Wow!!! How many things that you have absolutely no clue about are you willing to post on??? Two full threads of a screw maximizes the strength? On what metals; both fasteners and parts, are you talking about? Two threads? Where did that number come from as NO manual of Engineering or Materials I have seen uses that number??? For ANY material or fastener??? Assuming steel fastener as a scope mount was in question but you fail to mention what shear forces are versus fastener strengths... but obviously you really do not have a clue what the argument is that you entered, do you?
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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Campfire Kahuna
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In my direct experience the safety link is where corrosion starts. I suspect dissimilar metals in a saltwater bath generate electrical fields sufficient to accelerate corrosion by electrolysis... ie dielectric or galvanic corrosion.
Yes, if you have dissimilar metals, an electrolyte (like salt water), and the right conditions, you can get galvanic corrosion. Nothing to do with dielectrics. But where is the dissimilar metal here? That is the point... The metallurgy is suspect because of the nature of the failures I have observed. The failed parts do not seem to be related to anything other than accelerated electrolysis... dielectric corrosion. The parts in the trigger safety link are not the same as the rest, nor are they equally noble.
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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Back to the original question: I'd choose the Vanguard S2 without a second thought. I've had great luck with Weatherby rifles, as have my friends and family members. The Vanguards are not only extremely accurate, but they are solid, tough hunting rifles. They are, in my opinion, very under-valued. But, I'm happy about that because then I can afford to buy several..!
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I've got it bad for a BC S2. I've been waiting for a 7 Rem Mag, but may have to make that 06 happen.
Kentucky I'd love to read your review. PM me your email. I'll scan the printed story and email it to you.
If you're fixin' to put a hole in something, make it a hole to remember.
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How many things that you have absolutely no clue about are you willing to post on??? LOL Says the guy not smart enough to keep water out of guns and rust out of triggers. Save your silly remarks for someone who cares, because I'm done with them
Last edited by Snyper; 02/09/15.
One shot, one kill........ It saves a lot of ammo!
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Originally Posted By Oldelkhunter Again have you seen how thin that receiver is , thread depth Dan thread depth. You only need to engage two full threads to get the maximum strength from a screw Do you have any examples of receivers tearing apart from being too thin? Wow!!! How many things that you have absolutely no clue about are you willing to post on??? Two full threads of a screw maximizes the strength? On what metals; both fasteners and parts, are you talking about? Two threads? Where did that number come from as NO manual of Engineering or Materials I have seen uses that number??? For ANY material or fastener??? Assuming steel fastener as a scope mount was in question but you fail to mention what shear forces are versus fastener strengths... but obviously you really do not have a clue what the argument is that you entered, do you? Just as a side note, with A/C fasteners in the USAF, we are required the fastener have 2 threads protruding through the nut/nutplate/threaded hardpoint. Not 2 threads into, but through... Not that it is really all that related to this discussion, but an observation.
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That is the point...
The metallurgy is suspect because of the nature of the failures I have observed. The failed parts do not seem to be related to anything other than accelerated electrolysis... dielectric corrosion. The parts in the trigger safety link are not the same as the rest, nor are they equally noble.
Once again, it is "galvanic corrosion", or "dissimilar metals corrosion", not "dielectric corrosion". As I said, if you have the right conditions - good electrical contact between dissimilar metals, bathed in an electrolyte, you can get galvanic corrosion. In other words, if you have your trigger mechanism more or less bathed in seawater, and leave it like that, then it is a possibility. But equally so for other designs too, such as Howa and Remington (and others too). After all, each of those has parts in the trigger group made of different metals - bolts and springs and clips of blackened steel, for example. And even without galvanic corrosion, leaving your typical hunting rifle's internals bathed in seawater is not likely to be a good idea, as neither plain carbon steel, CrMo nor 416 is much good at resisting seawater. I'm not surprised, if those are the conditions under which you hunt, that you are seeing rusting, especially of the parts which are out of sight, and probably not so readily cleaned and dried. I doubt that it is a common service condition for a typical hunting rifle though. One other point with regard to your galvanic corrosion theory - and I'm not discounting it out of hand mind you - is that if you did have the necessary conditions, including a rifle whose internals were more or less bathed in seawater and left like that, then what about the other dissimilar metal? The aluminium bottom metal, given that aluminium is a good deal less "noble" than any of the other materials, could be expected to become the anode, and suffer corrosion in preference to the other parts, thereby protecting them much like the sacrificial anode on an outboard boat motor. Anyway, an interesting discussion, but unless you want to leave your rifle more or less bathed in salt water I can't see that galvanic corrosion of components of the trigger group is going to be much of an issue.
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Campfire Kahuna
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Certainly not "bathed" in saltwater, though it can and has happened... but constantly wetted by rain while hunting out in it and then dried each evening and usually popped out of the stock after tough days.
Spray can and does hit them often and that probably leaves enough electrolyte to start the battery...
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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I'm headed out tomorrow morning with the .223 to try some more loads with the 75 A-maxs.
I'll let you guys know if the scope shears off the top of the receiver, or the trigger falls out.
Dave
If you're not burning through batteries in your headlamp,...you're doing it wrong.
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So much Browning bashing. Okay, I get it. A few of you OF don't like Brownings. I've owned and continue to own Browning BBR's, Abolts and Xbolts (sorry, no AB3's) and all are outstanding rifles that have always gone "bang" when you pull the trigger. All have been accurate enough for the purpose of big game hunting. All have had ZERO problems with the triggers and I don't know how many thousands of rounds have been fired through them collectively. All have proven to be outstanding in the field. They are beautiful, reliable and have never failed to perform. I couldn't give two s_ _ _ s about all the claims of bad triggers, rust, thin metal, etc. Weatherby? I own them as well and they are outstanding firearms. Not one thing I read in all these posts would make me think twice about buying either a Browning or Weatherby. Some of you really need to get a life! Seriously, some of you are looney toons! Have a great day and keep your powder dry! One last thing...my Browning Abolt .270 has gone on more than 20 out of state elk and mule deer hunts, and one Newfoundland moose hunt in some of the most severe weather one can hunt in, and I've had zero problem...zero!
Last edited by 7X7X7X7; 02/09/15.
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Campfire Kahuna
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So you ask a question and do not like the responses from those with direct experience with in-field failures... and a long history of using rifles in tougher conditions for far longer than anything you have ever thought of doing... And you want to call them names?
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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Originally Posted By Oldelkhunter Again have you seen how thin that receiver is , thread depth Dan thread depth. You only need to engage two full threads to get the maximum strength from a screw Do you have any examples of receivers tearing apart from being too thin? Wow!!! How many things that you have absolutely no clue about are you willing to post on??? Two full threads of a screw maximizes the strength? On what metals; both fasteners and parts, are you talking about? Two threads? Where did that number come from as NO manual of Engineering or Materials I have seen uses that number??? For ANY material or fastener??? Assuming steel fastener as a scope mount was in question but you fail to mention what shear forces are versus fastener strengths... but obviously you really do not have a clue what the argument is that you entered, do you? Just as a side note, with A/C fasteners in the USAF, we are required the fastener have 2 threads protruding through the nut/nutplate/threaded hardpoint. Not 2 threads into, but through... Not that it is really all that related to this discussion, but an observation. T.O.1-1A-15!
Bob Enjoy life now -- it has an expiration date. ~Molɔ̀ːn Labé Skýla~
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