Hi Vel (Jerry) approached me about evaluating his new Reticle-Tru reticle alignment tool. I agreed to check it out and he sent me a sample. It is designed to assist in aligning a scope reticle, true with the gun, when mounting a scope.
I've been mounting scopes on rifles for many years and it's always been a hassle to get the reticle perfectly straight. The hardest to deal with were the original Weaver rings with screws on one side. Tightening those screws would draw the scope slightly, so the reticle that stated straight, ended up canted. The newer Sure Grip Weavers have screws on both sides and are much easier to deal with. Those original Weavers were a test of one's religion...!
It's hard to watch the reticle and align the scope, all at the same time. I often back off so I can see glimpses of the reticle as I visually try to align the crosshairs with the vertical axis of the gun. I've even tried to align the horizontal wire with the top of a flat base, anything to index the inside of the scope with what's going on outside the scope.
Case in point. With my new Leupold VX-6 1.5-6x24, with German #4 reticle, I took great pains to mount it correctly on my 9.3x62 Mauser, as posted below.
I aligned the reticle as I always have, checked and re-checked, convincing myself it was straight.
I then attached the Reticle-Tru to the eyepiece with the supplied rubber band. I aligned the vertical wire of the reticle with the machined slot in the tool, then backed off to check it out. It was obvious, from the indicators on the Reticle-Tru, the scope reticle was slightly canted, like 12:02, rather than 12:00, straight up. I loosened the ring screws, aligned the bottom pointer on the Reticle-Tru, dead center with the rifle bolt, tightened the ring screws and rechecked the reticle. It was perfect.
This is a very simple tool that should last forever. The only wearing part is the rubber band. This tool helps externalize the reticle alignment to better facilitate alignment of the scope with the rifle action, using reference points milled into the tool body.
Jerry is in the pre-prodution phase and doesn't yet have a price point. I think he's still working with the Patent folks.
I hope he can get it to market, as it's a "better mouse trap", so to speak. There are other devices designed to aid in reticle alignment. I think this one can hold it's own with any of them. It's simple to use and it works.
My disclaimer: This product was given to me to evaluate. The donation was not linked to my opinion, which isn't for sale, BTW. Jerry was very clear that he wanted my objective opinion and that's what I've done my best to express. If I didn't like it, I would have told him so, just privately...
Cool little gadget, looks very simple to use, and Yes, should last next to forever, and we all must reduce or better yet completely eliminate "cant", specially if your gonna stretch 'em out a bit.
I worked a bit on that first photo. I've got to get a new throw down for pictures. That one is an old plastic packing sheet that's showing age and dirt.
I rotated the photo and cropped it some to better show how the indicators on the tool can be used to establish the center line and axis of the gun. Closer scrutiny shows that it may be a hair off from perfect alignment, but it's close. This demonstrates just how sensitive the tool can be regarding true alignment. No way could one see the reticle that well and align the scope with such precision.
I think Jerry has some preliminary work to do before he puts it out. Our interest, giving him an idea of the numbers he needs to make, should be an assist to his logistical planning for the first run.
Good, simple and interesting ol' american engineering.
Would be interested to buy some as soon as available if price is honest. To test and present to gunsmiths and hunters who mounts lots of scopes. Can help to save time a bit and even more nervous breakdown when using old style Weaver rings...
I was just in a discussion about indexing a BAR, Rem 742, Rem 760, etc. There is no bolt to use as a reference point.
With those, I have placed a straight edge along the side of the receiver and indexed the reticle on that. I think one could use the side of the Reticle-Tru as a guide for a parallel index with the straight edge.
I've not yet done one of those with the Reticle-Tru, but think that technique would work.
Jerry sent me one last week and I got to give it a try.....pretty sweet deal! He's not getting it back.....grin!
FWIW, Jerry and I go back almost 40 years. Describing him as a pefectionist is an understatement. Everything he builds is a work of art and as near to perfect as humanly possible.
Getting it right easily and quickly is what this tool is all about....
Having worked in aerospace machining quality control for many years I know that the human eye can lineup four points to within .002".
I also know how often holes drilled and tapped on a cylindrical surface can be off center. Pretty often. Especially when using very small bits and taps despite being center drilled with a rather rigid centerdrill.
I was comparing notes with Jerry, known as Hi_Vel here on the campfire, about our individual creativity and inventions. I had already used and seen the value of his Scope Alignment Bar, but a tool to cure canted scopes, this had me salivating.
My invention is the large green one in the first picture and is used for recovering full rotation in your shoulder after rotator cuff surgery. Jerry's is the little white blob in the same picture.
My invention is for the Medical Journals as no one here will probably see the value of mine, so I will describe Jerry's as it is almost as simple and elegant as mine, hence the title of this thread.
The real value in the Reticle-Tru tool is that it doesn't incorporate a level, which can give a user too much confidence in an aspect of scope leveling, that could prove flawed. A level is only as good as you can mount it, as good as the level itself is and how well you could mount the level on the rifle and have the rifle square to the level.
Forget all that level stuff, I mounted the tool on my scope and put the rifle in the vise tipped to the right to show the value of the alignment in relation to the front sight and the center of the tang on this rifle. It is important that you use a constant to align everything on the rifle in accordance to the barrel and action, not aligning the tool to the center of the scope cap as it could be off-center and that is what you are trying to avoid.
Once the tool is mounted by simply attaching it to the rear of the scope with a special synthetic expansion memorizer, (rubber band) and then sighting the top and bottom points of the tool to the center of the barrel, I used the front sight on this rifle, and the center of the stock or tang of the action, to get a true reading of a perfectly vertical crosshair.
Then you look through the tool as if you were sighting the gun and see just how far off true vertical your scope really is. I have a bunch of rifles to correct as I have always held the gun up, judging vertical by how well I was actually holding the rifle in comparison to the earth and hoping I set the scope accordingly.
This tool simplified and perfected that process in one easy maneuver. This may not be the greatest invention next to my Therapy Device, but for the people reading here, it will no doubt have many more applications.
Looks like a useful device. If you pulled the bolt and chambered an unprimed case, that would provide a precise point of reference for alignment with the lower point.
I do my damned best to align my scopes by eye and when I think I have got the retacal pretty damn level, my shooting buddy, who has an uncanny sense of "level-or-not-ness", takes one look through my scope and says, "Your scope's canted". I'm in for one.
I do my damned best to align my scopes by eye and when I think I have got the retacal pretty damn level, my shooting buddy, who has an uncanny sense of "level-or-not-ness", takes one look through my scope and says, "Your scope's canted". I'm in for one.
Same exact thing here!
I used to tell him he was canted but I always had to admit he was right after the SOB left!
Does the device assume that the reticle is true..ie not canted ?
I think one would have to assume the reticle to be properly aligned in the scope. FOst had a new VX-6 with a canted reticle that he sent back to Leupold. They fixed it and he now has it.
This tool will greatly assist in aligning the reticle with the gun. The alignment of the reticle in the scope is another matter.
Got mine just today and my evaluation will be forthcoming.
Excited to try it.
nsaqam, my rifles are en route to you to complete the experiment..........didn't think you'd mind, as this is my way of contributing to see if this thing's worth a crap.
These must be very close to being offered to the public because the product is refined and the packaging is professional. They look completely store ready to me.
I bought an H&R .22WMR with a 4X Bushnell Banner from a Fire contributor. This is one of the older Bushnell Banners made in Japan. They're actually pretty good scopes.
This one is mounted in the old style Weaver rings. I noticed the reticle was slightly off, so another chance to use the new tool.
The eyepiece on this scope is very slick and Delrin is a self lubricating, slick material. Even with two rubber bands, it was proving a challenge to not bump the tool and change the alignment.
I put a piece of blue 3M painters tape in the "V", which added just enough friction to lightly grip the ocular. I also used two rubber bands. I didn't have the slippage problem with matte finished scopes, just this one.
I held a ruler against the left side of the H&R action and indexed the left edge of the Reticle-Tru with the ruler. Worked perfectly.
With those old Weavers, I started with the reticle in perfect alignment, tightened the one sided screw set up and noticed how much the scope had shifted. I then started over with the same amount of opposite cant, then re-tightened the screws, pulling the scope into perfect alignment.
So, there are a couple of ideas with flat sided receivers and with old style Weaver rings. That's about the easiest alignment with old Weavers I've ever done in many moon of messing with those sorry things...
They're actually good, strong, low weight rings, just a pain to mount a scope with the reticle straight. This tool makes those old rings less of a pain...
Jerry let me know he's working overtime to get this tool produced and ready to ship. I think he's pushing about as hard as he can and he'll keep us in the loop as things progress.
Jerry wrote me a very nice hand written letter which he included in my sample Reticle-Tru. He mentioned how much incredibly difficult and time consuming work is involved in bringing something like this to market. He also said that it's far more work than his regular full-time job was! I will say that, having been a QC inspector at an aerospace machining firm, this product is very well machined. All the edges are broken, there are no burrs, the angles are true, and the critical slot is perfect. Overall a fantastic job of machining and finishing. And I know how much of a PITA deburring Delrin can be.
Individually CNC machining each part and the cost of Delrin can run the cost. I'm sure he's working on producing the tool as inexpensively as possible.
I agree with you on the attractive logo and packaging. Jerry is a real artist and I would expect no less from him.
Individually CNC machining each part and the cost of Delrin can run the cost. I'm sure he's working on producing the tool as inexpensively as possible.
I agree with you on the attractive logo and packaging. Jerry is a real artist and I would expect no less from him.
DF
He might consider substituting UHMWPE (ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene) for the Delrin. It will look the same, machine about the same, and perform the same in this application but should cost less.
UHMWPE is about half the cost Half the tensile strength but at 4750 psi is still way over kill Much higher impact strength than delrin, but again, either is overkill Lower coefficient of friction so may need blue tape more often
I've been using the Segway Reticle-Leveler almost since it first became available. But I'll be ordering one of these as soon as they can be ordered via the web site. I'll be interested to see how the two tools compare.
I hope Jerry gets this product to market soon... I have a fair number of scopes to mount, and if I keep doing things the way I have been, either a rifle or scope (or, most likely, both) are going to go flying across the garage soon!
Delrin and CNC machining are both expensive. Delrin is just about indestructible and these tools should last a lifetime of hard use.
I would think the Delrin model would be for professional gunsmiths and other high use applications.
There may be an opportunity to produce an injection molded consumer version down the road. Those won't cost as much to make, but the start up cost is pretty high.
So, we'll have to wait for Jerry to do his thing. BTW, he's working overtime to make all this happen.
Just got off the phone with Jerry. Took a while to catch up. I really enjoyed the visit, as always.
He's making progress with the project. The CNC machine is being set up to produce at 4 times the previous rate. This tool will be targeted to the professional and serious hobbiest. Some gunsmiths mount 1,000+ scopes a year. This device will make that process easier, saving time.
This device is being precision machined from Delrin, a tough and durable material. Later on, there may be a consumer grade, injection molded version, which will cost less to make.
The patent is pending and Jerry is getting ready to start selling the Reticle Tru on line. Shouldn't be too long.
I'm sure he'll keep us posted. Here's his website and an overview on the Reticle Tru, made 100% in Montana.
I've been testing the Reticle-Tru for a while now, and it works.
I tested at first with a simple method I use for testing many scope-mounting tools, by trying it on rifles with scopes already properly mounted and sighted-in.
Scopes that have reticles and innards set up properly will shoot groups directly in line with each other vertically when adjusted up and down. (Well, as long as the target has been leveled, and the reticle is aimed square on the target.)
In every instanceon these rifles, the Reticle-Tru showed the crosshairs to be correctly aligned.
That said, there are certain parameters:
1) As some people have already suggested, if the reticle is canted inside the scope, there can be problems. But there are problems with such scopes anyway.
2) Many factory rifles end up with the scope mounts canted slightly, for various reasons. The Reticle-Tru won't work precisely with those rifles, but it will come close.
3) You have to be able to perceive if the Reticle-Tru itself is centered. I've found some people have a hard time with this, either because their have middle-aged eyesight or somehow can't keep their eye directly aligned behind the scope and Reticle-Tru.
As Jerry's tutoral shows, the easiest way is to aim the scope with Reticle Tru at a light, align the reticle as close as you can. Then, move your head to the left and get the verticle part of the reticle aligned with the edge of the slit. Then try it on the other side. It's not hard, even with 60+ yr old eyes, to align two parallel lines very precisely.
And, as shown on a previous post, I put blue painters tape in the "V" of the tool. With a shiny finished scope the Delrin was too slick and it wouldn't hold postion. The tape added just enough friction to make it work. On matte finished scopes, there didn't seem to be a problem.
This tool does save some serious time and aggrivation getting the reticle aligned just right.
And, I've noticed some factory rifles with the scope screw holes, canted off center. You'd think they'd have a jig to drill those without error. I have one now that I'm going to have to redrill to make it right.
I received an email from Jerry. He has his web site up and running with the capacity to take credit card orders. He has a batch of the machined Delrin Reticle Tru tools, ready to ship.
Keep us posted if a CF group buy/discount becomes available. I like the idea, but $71.00 with shipping is a bit steep, IMO.
It isn't cheap, but neither is Delrin or CNC machining. This device is targeted toward the professional and serious hobbiest. Down the road, there may be an injection molded, consumer grade Reticle-Tru that will be less expensive. For now, the professional grade, CNC/Deldrin version is the only one being offered.
I guess it just depends on how many scopes you plan to mount. The busy gunsmith mounting a thousand scopes a year will be amazed at the time it saves and will consider it a money maker. Someone mounting two or three scopes a year, probably not.
I've used mine over a dozen times, swapping scopes around, and I'm convinced I wouldn't want to be without one. Those who have actually used one, based on feedback I've received, have a similar opinion.
Injection molding for mass production requires a major up front investment. Those dies cost a bunch, although the product can be made much faster and for less. The material used in that process is less expensive than Delrin.
Even though the individual Delrin Reticle-Tru costs more to produce, and is of better quality, CNC machining start up costs are less. The CNC machine has been set up to produce 4 Reticle-Tru tools at a time, so that should increase production.
Jerry does plan to mass produce the tool, but for now, the Delrin version is the only one being offered. I would hope this one would continue to be offered as a professional grade tool even after the injection molded one comes on line. I know I'd rather have the CNC/Delrin tool than an injection molded one.
I'm in the performance automotive industry, and we often make and sell Delrin parts ("we" includes our partner companies in the US) that are CNC machined, and about the same size as the Reticle-Tru, for roughly $30, which is about what I would expect to pay for this tool.
Not criticizing, just trying to give initial feedback on the pricing structure.
I agree with GW that an injection-molded version for roughly 30-50% of the cost of the Delrin model would target a much larger market. Hopefully Jerry can eventually produce such a model.
Just got this messasge from Jerry. He understands the need for a less expensive tool and offers this.
"For those who want a $20.00 tool--right now they are in luck.
Michael Palmers' patent expired on August 12, 2012. his nephew obtained possession of old inventory, and is now selling them on Ebay:
Just type in Segway Leveler."
Jerry says when this inventory is gone, new productions costs are going to be higher. I'm not familiar with the Segway Leveler, but you may want to check it out on Ebay.
Just got this messasge from Jerry. He understands the need for a less expensive tool and offers this.
"For those who want a $20.00 tool--right now they are in luck.
Michael Palmers' patent expired on August 12, 2012. his nephew obtained possession of old inventory, and is now selling them on Ebay:
Just type in Segway Leveler."
Jerry says when this inventory is gone, new productions costs are going to be higher. I'm not familiar with the Segway Leveler, but you may want to check it out on Ebay.
DF
The Segway has been around for a long time but it isn't nearly the tool that the Reticle Tru is.
Just got this messasge from Jerry. He understands the need for a less expensive tool and offers this.
"For those who want a $20.00 tool--right now they are in luck.
Michael Palmers' patent expired on August 12, 2012. his nephew obtained possession of old inventory, and is now selling them on Ebay:
Just type in Segway Leveler."
Jerry says when this inventory is gone, new productions costs are going to be higher. I'm not familiar with the Segway Leveler, but you may want to check it out on Ebay.
DF
The Segway has been around for a long time but it isn't nearly the tool that the Reticle Tru is.
Very true. The Reticle-Tru is much better, IMHO, than the Segway Leveler and all other reticle leveling devices currently on the market.
But, it's $20, not $65 plus freight.
For those wanting a low cost tool, Jerry is suggesting this one as a good buy and he thinks the next batch of Segway Levelers will cost more than $20. This is a close out inventory, evidently manufactured some time ago.
It's interesting how you went from not familiar with the Segway leveler to the Reticle-Tru being much better in the space of a couple of posts.
This is not a comment on Jerry's product since I haven't tried it. It may well be the greatest ever.
You're quick on the uptake, mathman...
I was familiar with the Segway Leveler and had handled one before. I just didn't remember the name, as I don't own one. When I saw it on Ebay, I reestablished the association.
If you ever try a Reticle-Tru, you'll like it. It's a lot more robust than the Segway Leveler, nothing to break.
Not cheap, but have dropped that on a bottle of wine on a dinner out. Have a spot reserved for the one I just ordered in my loading bench work table tool box. sidepass
I have not used Jerry's tool. I have used the Segway for many years. The principle behind how the Reticle-Tru works looks like it would be superior. Either way, you are using eyesight for alignment. The Reticle-Tru looks like it provides more optical precision. Looking forward to trying one out.
I have not used Jerry's tool. I have used the Segway for many years. The principle behind how the Reticle-Tru works looks like it would be superior. Either way, you are using eyesight for alignment. The Reticle-Tru looks like it provides more optical precision. Looking forward to trying one out.
Lining up the vertical part of the reticle with the Reticle-Tru slit is quite precise. Jerry recommends lining it up as close as possible, then moving one's head to the left so the left side of the slit is next to and parallel with the vertical wire. Then going to the right to confirm. IMHO, that is the magic of the divice. Then, it's easy to point the indicators to dead center, indexing on the bolt or other gun part. Just that simple. Takes longer to tell about it than to do it.
On a flat sided receiver, like a Rem. 7600, I hold a ruler against the flat side of the receiver, then index the side of the Reticle-Tru on the ruler. It's not hard to get those two lines perfectly parallel with each other. That works about as well as indexing on the bolt with a bolt gun.
How about a rundown on how it works. It's still more expensive than the Ebay Segway Leveler, which is probably the best deal for the buck. I didn't say it was the best leveler, just the most leveler for the money, at $20.
One thing about reticle devices with a bubble level, those things can break. And, it seems to me the goal is reticle alignment, true to the rifle. Some devices require external references, like indexing on a door frame, etc. The Reticle Tru is an internal system, not requiring external references, not sensitive to being "level". It is a tool for aligning the reticle with the axis of the rifle, level notwithstanding. IMHO, it's the elegance of simplicity.
I received my Reticle -Tru last week and have mounted a couple of new scopes with it. It's simple, quick, and easy to use. I won't wade into the unit price issue other than to say for me this thing is worth every dime for it's convenience as well as saved frustration. Great piece of kit.
Reticle Tru update: Jerry has been busy, boxing and shipping these tools. Manufacturing process is still Deldrin and CNC machining, no injection molded series quite yet.
I'm still using mine everytime I change out or mount a scope. Time saver for sure and a pleasure to use.
I saw his contraption in a magazine just the other day. Can't remember which one though. Maybe it was RIFLE, with articles on scope mounting tools IIRC>
I haven't seen the article, but it is my understanding that JB did include the Reticle Tru in a piece he wrote on the subject. I need to get a copy and read it.
There are several reasons the Sedgway device disappeared. Let's just say there were personal difficulties with the inventor. I've been promised one to test, and will do that when it shows up.
Tools and gadgets for scope alignment are always cool, and like fishing lures, I tend to collect a bunch of them. It's good to see clever new products on the market. I'll probably get one to add to the collection. But in the end, I always end up squaring the firearm receiver in a holding fixture so it's level to earth gravity, and then I square up the reticle against a simple plumb bob that's lined up by earth's gravity. No matter what gadget I use, I always end up checking and correcting the results against the plumb bob.
The beauty of the Reticle Tru is no external references, such as level, plum bob, door facing, etc. are needed. The only issue is the relationship of the reticle to the axis of the rifle. That's it, the elegance of simplicity.
Edited to add, I just read the Rifle article by JB on line. As always, to the point, concise with good explanations of how and why.
I agree, I have more than one compact tool that does this task out in the middle of nowhere. Point I was making is that I always end up going back to the plumb line to check my work. I've lost count how many times of done this, no matter how accurate the field tool works.
I always end up checking and correcting the results against the plumb bob. Best
A piece of white string with a old rusty 3/4-10 nut hanging at 100 yards does the trick. Everytime.... Best
dave
Yeah, but hard to set that up in the shop. My padded vice and tools are inside and for me, I like to have the scope mounted, reticle aligned and a preliminary, in the shop bore sighting before going to the range. Jerry's alignment tool is a big help, taking a lot of the aggravation out of the process.
I bore sight at the range too. Usually takes about a total of 3 rounds. Two to adjust it One at 100 for the zero. All done. Im sure the Reticle-Tru alignment device is an excellant tool.
How about a rundown on how it works. It's still more expensive than the Ebay Segway Leveler, which is probably the best deal for the buck. I didn't say it was the best leveler, just the most leveler for the money, at $20.
DF
Sorry I didn't see this sooner.
The tool uses two Vee blocks. One Vee block is set against the objective bell of the scope. The other block is slid down until it locates against the rifle barrel. Then you use the bubble level to level the action/scope which places the scope and rifle centered in the vertical plane. The body of the tool has a slot milled through it (window) which allows you to line up the vertical crosshair with an external reference (plumb line). You then level your ACD and it's good to go.
I guess that one is the closest to Jerry's innovation. The Reticle Tru just cuts out the level part and the barrel "V" block, using only the axis of the action to index the reticle orientation. Similar idea with the slit, just simpler.
In email exchanges with Jerry, he informs me that he's sold some blems but was surprised that they weren't moving as fast as the production run.
Jerry is a perfectionist and to him the tool must be absolutely perfect to be a production run item. They had a run with some machine marks, hard to see without close scrutiny.
This photo shows a blem and a perfect production piece. I can't tell the difference and he says one has to hold a unit up close to tell the difference.
I think the price break on the blems represents an opportunity.
The Reticle Tru makes life a lot easier. I got one from Jerry, and it's worked very well once I got passed a few challenges that were purely a matter of using the device correctly.
You just have to make sure you take Jerry's advice and move your eye side to side lining up the reticle with the left side of the slot and the right side, to make sure that it's perfectly parallel with the slot. Then make sure the pointer is aiming at the very center line of the tang or bolt shroud/firing pin, and you're good to go.
Jerry is "old school". He once showed me a stock that he hand checkered. It was flawless. It was also his first try.....
We've been good friends since we were 17. In the fall of '75, we hunted everyday before school. A time or two we pulled into the parking lot of the high school with critters in the back and rifles in the rack. Nobody ever said anything. Those were the days!!
You just have to make sure you take Jerry's advice and move your eye side to side lining up the reticle with the left side of the slot and the right side, to make sure that it's perfectly parallel with the slot. Then make sure the pointer is aiming at the very center line of the tang or bolt shroud/firing pin, and you're good to go.
I received my "Blem" yesterday. Looks perfect to me. I've been playing with it on a few scopes that are already mounted. I've found that in addition to Jordan's/Jerry's advice, looking back through the objective with the rifle in a rest/vise provides a smaller site picture that also helps confirm that the reticle is perfectly parallel with the slot. It's a very nice tool!
Jerry is "old school". He once showed me a stock that he hand checkered. It was flawless. It was also his first try.....
We've been good friends since we were 17. In the fall of '75, we hunted everyday before school. A time or two we pulled into the parking lot of the high school with critters in the back and rifles in the rack. Nobody ever said anything. Those were the days!!
Jerry is a perfectionist, for sure, and quite an artist from what I hear.
I've had some nice conversations with him and he's a real interesting guy. He thinks a lot of you. I've heard a bunch of "Pat stories", all good and very entertaining. You guys live in a great state with a lot of opportunities for hunting and adventure. I always enjoy those accounts.
You just have to make sure you take Jerry's advice and move your eye side to side lining up the reticle with the left side of the slot and the right side, to make sure that it's perfectly parallel with the slot. Then make sure the pointer is aiming at the very center line of the tang or bolt shroud/firing pin, and you're good to go.
I received my "Blem" yesterday. Looks perfect to me. I've been playing with it on a few scopes that are already mounted. I've found that in addition to Jordan's/Jerry's advice, looking back through the objective with the rifle in a rest/vise provides a smaller site picture that also helps confirm that the reticle is perfectly parallel with the slot. It's a very nice tool!
Got mine in the mail today. I'll try it out this evening! I orderded a blem, but I'll be darned if I can see where there's a blemish. Very fast shipping also. Thanks, Jerry. Nice talking to you the other day.
The only issue I had, and it wasn't much of a problem, was slick Delrin not gripping very well on a gloss finished Leupy. It did fine with matte finished scopes. I stuck a strip of blue painters tape in the inside "V" of the Reticle-Tru and the extra friction held without slippage.
Aligning the reticle with the slit is easy if one holds the scope to the light and moves one's eye back and forth to precisely align the edge of the slit with the reticle.
We've gotten some good points from Fire contributors. I liked the idea of looking thru the objective to double check reticle/slit alignment. I plan to try that next time I mount a scope.
Keep sharing those experiences and pearls of wisdom.
Got mine in the mail yesterday, very fast shipping and packaged well. Mounted two scopes with it this afternoon and worked as advertised...very easy and fast.
I got my "blem" in the mail a couple of days ago. It looks perfect and I can't tell what makes it a blem. Maybe if I had a non-blem one to compare to, but I doubt it. Very happy with the purchase, the discount price, and the quick shipping. It's a good deal.
The Reticle Tru makes life a lot easier. I got one from Jerry, and it's worked very well once I got passed a few challenges that were purely a matter of using the device correctly.
You just have to make sure you take Jerry's advice and move your eye side to side lining up the reticle with the left side of the slot and the right side, to make sure that it's perfectly parallel with the slot. Then make sure the pointer is aiming at the very center line of the tang or bolt shroud/firing pin, and you're good to go.
Very straight forward.
Jordan,
could you tell us for the Canadians how was the process as the website says not outisde USA?
The Reticle Tru makes life a lot easier. I got one from Jerry, and it's worked very well once I got passed a few challenges that were purely a matter of using the device correctly.
You just have to make sure you take Jerry's advice and move your eye side to side lining up the reticle with the left side of the slot and the right side, to make sure that it's perfectly parallel with the slot. Then make sure the pointer is aiming at the very center line of the tang or bolt shroud/firing pin, and you're good to go.
Very straight forward.
Jordan,
could you tell us for the Canadians how was the process as the website says not outisde USA?
all the best.
Phil
Phil,
The best way is to PM Jerry directly. His screen name is Hi_Vel.
I agree with DF on this. Jerry is a machinist, so he is very precise/anal (as is most master machinists) and his Reticle-tru-alignment device is a work of art and so simple to use. He's also a great guy to deal with. I like mine and have used it countless times. It just works and is so easy to use!!
![[Linked Image]](http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f35/rush2830/MauserandVX-6004.jpg)
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