The beeswax in the Sno-Seal is not the issue, obviously... The solvents are added to make the beeswax easier to apply, but fail to account for what happens as that 35% (by your numbers) of the product evaporates. Straight beeswax has half again as much wax with none leaving to create "pours" in the process.
As I keep saying, you may not need straight beeswax type waterproofing, but nothing else comes close if you truly do.
I have yet to wear out a pair of beeswaxed boots. Before beeswax I got a year or two from Danner uppers. I have destroyed a pair of boots in one week of sidehilling in shale. I have done the same hunt for repeated weeks in the same area in boots that are still going strong...
Last edited by Sitka deer; 11/08/11.
