Super easy. If your arrow hit to the right of the spot, reduce the bow weight one or two pounds. Continue reducing weight until you are in line vertically with the spot. In the case of the shaft hitting to the left, increase bow weight a small amount at a time. Now is the time to fine tune. How? It's easy, just back up to 30 yards. Make small corrections to the weight to keep the arrow in the spot. Now go to 40, then 50, or as I said, as far as you have pins for. Your elevation may be off at some ranges due both to changes in the nocking point and the fact that you are shooting a different point then the field point. Once your arrows are in a line vertical with the target at all ranges, you can adjust the sights up or down to get back in a horizontal line. At the longer ranges, broadheads may tend to strike a small amount lower then field points. You should not need to move the sights in or out at all.
One situation that is very hard to understand occurs if the arrow hits the spot on the first shot, but fishtails, or porpoises or both, all the way down. This means you are very close but will not know what adjustment to turn first. Do not make any trial and error adjustments at any point. The only way out of this is to deliberately misadjust your bow weight up or down three or four pounds and then start your adjustments as described above.
If you find yourself at the upper or lower limits of your bow during tuning because of the arrow you chose, there is still hope. Proceed by changing the weight of your broad head. If you hit to the right, reduce the weight of the head either by changing to a lighter one or by removing one blade at a time. No, this will not make it fly funny. Weigh the head once it shoots right and buy some that are close to this weight. Add weight if you are shooting to the left. If the arrows hit to the right, they can also be shortened small amounts at a time. One-quarter inch at a time is about right. Just remember that you cannot put it back.
Sound easy? It is. Once learned, it will take five to ten minutes to tune for broadheads after the field points are tuned and sighted in. But say you shot a deer this year and the broad head did not perform to your expectations-or even that it broke! And say you bought some heads that look good but they weigh 20 grains more. Drag out the straw and adjust the weight to get back in the spot. What's that? You didn't have time to practice this year and cannot draw the bow? Pick up those lighter arrows you have stashed in the closet and do the same thing. I will also bet your sight settings remain the same, although it may take a slight up or down adjustment at the longer ranges. If it does, mark your sight so you can return to the original setting if you go back to using your heavier arrows. Record how many turns it takes on the weight screws in a book, don't rely on your memory. This way you will be able to change between a variety of heads and arrows at will, just using your Allen wrench. Tape a piece of paper on the bow, with the amount of turns needed for each combination printed on it.
