Judman, I definitely see an advantage. But, I would definitely NOT use release agent on the receiver. I want a strong bond between the base and receiver. That's the advantage. If you drop your rifle, and we all know it does happen, you don't have to worry about that epoxied base (or ring/mount) moving slightly, in relation to the receiver. If the rifle is dropped, something else may move but the relationship between base (or ring/mount) and receiver is one thing that you won't have to worry about. And as far as removing the bases later on if you desire, I've done that too. Remove the barreled action, put it in a vise. Heat the base with a heat gun and give it a tap with hammer with a piece of wood against the base. Very simple. With the epoxy softened with heat, it can be scraped off the receiver using an old credit card, without harming the receivers finish, blued or stainless. Residuals cand be cleaned off with brake cleaner.
I also jig ring/mounts using a virgin lapping bar and gluing them to the receiver with the bar attached for perfect ring alignment.
For 2 piece weaver or Pic bases I use as perfect (as I can find) set of scope rings (TPS) install them on a ONE piece slave Pic rail that is known to be straight, to the exact same hole spacing as on the rifle (sometimes have to modify a recoil lug on the slave pic rail to get the hole spacing I need) Tighten the ring cross bolts good, install the virgin lapping bar, remove the slave Pic rail and install the thoroughly cleaned 2 piece bases in its place. With the rifle clamped in a vise, I thread in waxed headless base screws into the thoroughly cleaned receiver top. Now, apply epoxy to the underside of the bases, slip the bases over the headless screws and use big rubber bands or rubber surgical tubing to hold the lapping bar/scope ring/2 piece base assembly snugly against the receiver. Clean off excess epoxy. After 4 days, loosen ring cross bolts and remove rings/lapping bar. Remove headless screws, clean holes, apply blue Loctite to cleaned base screws, install screws and torque them. The 2 piece bases are now installed rigidly on the receiver, aligned (as much as possible) like a 1 piece rail. RJ
You can do it however you want. I just think that the torque on the screws is plenty to keep your base from moving as long as those screws never loosen over time. I think the reason a mount moves is because the screws loosen with repeated impacts of recoil and other movement . I also change scopes often enough that I don't want to have any mess to clean off my rifle.. Every rifle I have ever used release agent on still had an epoxy bond even after I took the screws out. The advantage of the release agent is that a few taps on the bases after removing the screws popped them off clean.
