For straight ammo consider the tools.
In the case of a fired piece of brass, I anneal, use a Redding body die to bump shoulder, clean neck with 000 steel wool, leave the carbon inside the neck but swipe with a nylon bore brush, run it into a Lee Collet Die, for competition rifles use a Forester seating die (0.0000-0.0005") and for hunting rifles a Lee seating die (good for 0.0010" runout), a Lee factory crimp may be used if the rifle is heavy recoiling or having difficulty getting a super low ES. Preliminary to this the cases are neck skimmed and trimmed to length. As the cases 'stretch' they are trimmed and the neck thickness checked as well as they will thicken at the shoulder-neck junction, the collet die puts the donut on the outside.
Insure the base to ogive dimension is consistent, the powder charge is exact from case to case.
Chose a powder that will give an OCW load and tune to barrel time OBT.
The above techniques will make any rifle ,that does not have mechanical issues, shine.
The 2 rifles I use for hunting , a Steyr Pro Hunter 7mm-08 (6.25" 1000 yard 3 shot group), Sako Finnlight 30-06 ( 7.5" 3 shot group at 1000 yards) both have 6X scopes. These were used in a club event in hunter class, nothing special as these are true hunting rifles , as opposed to one that is built to the rules.
Good tools and techniques in handloading will make most any rifle shine.
