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My Heatmaster 10,000e heats my house, my water and my swimming pool. I have Mendota natural gas fireplaces in the home.

(Quote)I like the Oslo but these new stoves, including the Vermont Castings, are finicky about dry wood! You have to get a good woodshed or covered wood pile, it might take you two or three years to get down to 17 percent moisture. Got to get a digital moisture meter. They just won't work with wet wood

This is the biggest drawback to the new EPA stoves.The old days you could just throw anything in them not so anymore.But if you have the right wood, meaning dry, the efficiency is amazing with them.

A Majestic in the main house and two Fischer's a Papa Bear and a Baby bear.....

I run a quadra fire woodstove in the house and an old vestal stove in the shop. Paid 200 bucks for the quadra fire, got the vestal for free when I installed a new stove for a customer and they told me if I could haul off the old one, I could have it. Heated with it for years until I built us a house too efficient for it. Even in the last house we had the windows open a lot of the time. Then we got the little quadra fire. Last year, we never ran it. Heated and cooked for a year on 200 gallons of propane with an 1800sf house with high ceilings thoughout. Used a radiant ventless wall heater on the lowest setting all winter. Turn it up any, house gets too hot. May have gone a little overboard with the air sealing and insulation...

Fisher mama bear bought it for $75 best money I ever spent

Old Yukon Bronco, add on furnace.
Burns wood and coal, but the grates are shot and unavailable,
so no coal.

Anyone have a lead on replacement grates for this thing?
I think it was made in Mn.

Quadra fire.

And like Charlie, there's usually one or the other of the dogs in front of it. Sometimes both get in the way of feeding it.





I'm a fan of a stove I can cook on if need be, and doesn't need power to operate. After all, whatcha gonna do when the SHTF? Just like in the olden days, when/if I run out of wood and trees before winter ends, I can always burn the furniture for heat. Try that in you natural gas insert.

Geno

i like the concept of being able to convert furniture into heat if push comes to shove.

down here today it's a record 98 or more.

but, the winter is coming.

the heater is already loaded with wood & kindling.

just in case. don't want an early unexpected cold spell to catch us unprepared. just sayin'

I have a Fisher that I took out of my up north house. I'd like to sell it. My plan is to replace it with a Blaze King just before I retire and move up permanently.

I bought one of these some years ago. Decided to stick with gas. Its just sitting in the garage.

https://www.woodheat.com/products/stoves/wood-stoves/hearthstone-heritage.html

Got it for a good price, figure I'll hang on to it and use it in the cabin/camp I need to build.

That one is worth building a room around. A beauty.

We had a Regency at our last place. Not an insert though a stand alone stove, 8 inch steel chimney and an insulated stainless outlet piece. Hell of a good unit they're popular around here. Like you say the blower is nice but with no power no blower you could still about cook yourself out of our house if you ran it near full.

The pellet stove in our 1896 farm house was removed by previous owners before we moved in. This heritage home has no insulation to speak of, but is only @ 1700 sq. feet, including upper level. We replaced the pellet stove with an insert, a Montlake 230 by Ironstrike. We are in the 7,000 foot level of the mountains, with easy access to the standing-dead timber of the Forest. If the blower is usable, it does a fine job. If the power goes out, it struggles a bit to heat the whole house. Our backup is electric wall heaters, but they rarely are needed. We go through about 3 cords of Fir, Spruce or Pinon each winter and enjoy the warmth that only a fireplace or wood stove could provide.

The purchase and installation of a vented chimney cap has been worthwhile, since we get a bit of creosote buildup otherwise. The old masonry chimney still works fine with its' steel liner. Junk mail serves as kindling and we routinely clean the chimney/pipe every year.

Beautiful work. When I build the new house in a couple of years, I'll be putting in a masonry wood heater. They are amazingly efficient and seem like a easier to operate version of the wood stove.

http://www.heavenlyheat.com.au/home-2/how-masonry-heaters-work/

This stove is similar to the one that heated the farm house of my childhood. (1940s) Ours was the ROUND OAK DUPLEX. The differences I remember are primarily cosmetic. The crown,front foot rest, and bottom ring were nickle plated. That corrugated cast iron base would turn red during those below zero days. Our stove also had 2x2 inch Isinglass (mica) windows in the lower door.

I remember sitting there with my dad. We would pull off those winter boots and rest our feet in the foot rest and watch the steam rise off our wool sox while we dried them and warmed our feet. That stove plus the kitchen wood cook stove kept that old 12 room farm house warm during the Adirondack winters. It was not uncommon to see -30, -40 degree weather.

John, we're also right at 22'.....as you know just the heat from that vert pipe = some serious btus!

I looked long and hard at putting a Tulikivi masonry heater into my house. I love 'em!
I finally figured that the thing, day in and day out, would put out too much heat for the NC mountains. Plus the girlfriend doesn't like them.
I wound up going with the fireplace and a wood stove.

Quadrafire Isle Royale in the dining room. I use a fan to move air towards the front if the house and up the stairs, I get a good circulation which heats the whole house, except the back upstairs bedroom on the coldest, windiest nights. 100 year old house, 2400 square feet. It likes dry wood, but I haven't found it to be as picky as some I have read about.

Thanks. I really should just sell it, buy a simple old cast stove when I’m ready.