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Re: Car battery jumper boxes [Re: Hubert] #15453684 11/25/20
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jeffbird Offline
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I went through this last summer.

A F250 diesel needs a unit with at least 3,000 amps.

I tried a 2,000 amp unit and it was just a bit too weak.

Read the specs on the box closely before buying.

BP-B2

Re: Car battery jumper boxes [Re: 10gaugemag] #15453688 11/25/20
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fburgtx Offline
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Originally Posted by 10gaugemag
Originally Posted by fburgtx
I have a DB Power lithium battery pack (look on Amazon). It has started a 6.0 Chevy, a 5.9 Dodge gasser, a 5.3 Chevy, and plenty of riding lawn mowers. Unless you’re starting a high compression diesel, you don’t need a big battery pack.

https://www.amazon.com/DBPOWER-1800...&hvtargid=pla-473964568314&psc=1



Main thing with the small lithium packs is to only crank for 3-5 seconds, then let them cool for several minutes before trying to crank again.

Looking in to one of these now.


The one I have now is 3-4 years old. It’s more than paid for itself. Even if I never jumpstarted a truck, just having it to occasionally jump the lawn tractor, and get my work done, rather than having to wait to charge up its’ battery or drag cables over to it, has been worth the price.

They’re small enough that EVERYONE should have one if they’re on a utv/atv, miles off in the woods.

Re: Car battery jumper boxes [Re: Hubert] #15454242 11/25/20
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Hubert Offline OP
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I bought the big one from harbor freight.. it has the air compressor . I just thought it would be neat to inflate my tire if it went flat... they had all kinds.. i may buy some of the small ones for presents. to give to people that may be calling me ..do they sell one with a gas can HARHAR...my oldest son tries to see how far he can go on a empty tank... But he is doing better now...that he is past 50 ..


Re: Car battery jumper boxes [Re: Hubert] #15454309 11/25/20
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I have been studying up on this today. Numerous web sites say, you probably are OK with conventional car to car jumping, if:

1. Cut off the engine of the good vehicle.
2. Connect the hot cable to the hot post on dead battery. Then connect it to the hot post on good car.
3. Connect the negative cable to the good battery post.
4. Connect the negative cable to the engine area of the non functional car. Not to the negative terminal, but to a metal part that is not painted.

Then crank up the good car. Then, to really play it safe, run the car for five minutes. This should charge the dead battery. Disconnect and fire up the once-dead car.

I have been pretty much doing it this way as I have jumped post 2000 model cars on at least a dozen occasions and never caused any damage. I did not wait five minutes to charge the battery, I just cranked up the good car and started the kaput car right up. Also I have not connected to a non painted metal part, I connect right to the negative post of the dead battery.

Maybe I have been lucky.

As I said above, once I began reading this thread this morning, I bought a charger from Amazon for 98 bucks.

I am still a Boy Scout at heart. Be Prepared.

Re: Car battery jumper boxes [Re: Hubert] #15454374 11/25/20
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I have had a microstart xp-3 for quite a few years. Wont start a big diesel but typical automotive gassers no problem. USB port comes in handy also for cell phones. Wife keeps it in her truck.

Been thinking about picking up another micro jump box for my car.


If Obama is the answer, must have been a pretty stupid question.
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Re: Car battery jumper boxes [Re: Hubert] #15454468 11/25/20
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I have the commercial DSR with the 12v24v selector. It's cranked a duramax and a 2745 Massey diesel in the dead of winter. Ive had good luck out of it.

Re: Car battery jumper boxes [Re: 10gaugemag] #15454867 11/25/20
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lvmiker Offline
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Originally Posted by 10gaugemag
Originally Posted by fburgtx
I have a DB Power lithium battery pack (look on Amazon). It has started a 6.0 Chevy, a 5.9 Dodge gasser, a 5.3 Chevy, and plenty of riding lawn mowers. Unless you’re starting a high compression diesel, you don’t need a big battery pack.

https://www.amazon.com/DBPOWER-1800...&hvtargid=pla-473964568314&psc=1



Main thing with the small lithium packs is to only crank for 3-5 seconds, then let them cool for several minutes before trying to crank again.

Looking in to one of these now.



I have a DB that was a gift from my kid. I charge before every trip but it has never had less than 75% of its' charge. It stays in the 4 Runner and has worked from -8* F to +118* F.. I have never needed it for our car but have jumped a few other folk's rides. It is a nice feeling to know that you have it if needed.


mike r


Don't wish it were easier
Wish you were better

Stab them in the taint, you can't put a tourniquet on that.
Craig Douglas ECQC
Re: Car battery jumper boxes [Re: simonkenton7] #15454923 11/25/20
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Originally Posted by simonkenton7
I have been studying up on this today. Numerous web sites say, you probably are OK with conventional car to car jumping, if:

1. Cut off the engine of the good vehicle.
2. Connect the hot cable to the hot post on dead battery. Then connect it to the hot post on good car.
3. Connect the negative cable to the good battery post.
4. Connect the negative cable to the engine area of the non functional car. Not to the negative terminal, but to a metal part that is not painted.

Then crank up the good car. Then, to really play it safe, run the car for five minutes. This should charge the dead battery. Disconnect and fire up the once-dead car.

I have been pretty much doing it this way as I have jumped post 2000 model cars on at least a dozen occasions and never caused any damage. I did not wait five minutes to charge the battery, I just cranked up the good car and started the kaput car right up. Also I have not connected to a non painted metal part, I connect right to the negative post of the dead battery.

Maybe I have been lucky.

As I said above, once I began reading this thread this morning, I bought a charger from Amazon for 98 bucks.

I am still a Boy Scout at heart. Be Prepared.

Most connect to the bad battery negative post since there is damn little unpainted under the hood.

Might be a worthwhile preemptive measure to bolt a cable pigtail to an easily accessed point in engine compartment.


If you take the time it takes, it takes less time.
--Pat Parelli

American by birth; Alaskan by choice.
--ironbender
Re: Car battery jumper boxes [Re: Hubert] #15455550 11/25/20
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reivertom Offline
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I just bought a couple of these and they may have enough juice for your needs. They don't look like much compared to older lead acid tech, but many swear by them.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H58NP77/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Re: Car battery jumper boxes [Re: EdM] #15455587 11/25/20
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Originally Posted by EdM
How well do they do if unused/charged for some time?

I keep mine on a trickle charge.If you don`t charge for a while they will cannot be charged with enough volts to start a car.


Its all right to be white!!
"Pick up a rifle and you change instantly from a Subject to a Citizen." (Col. Jeff Cooper, USMC)
IC-B

Re: Car battery jumper boxes [Re: Huntz] #15455634 11/25/20
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fburgtx Offline
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Originally Posted by Huntz
Originally Posted by EdM
How well do they do if unused/charged for some time?

I keep mine on a trickle charge.If you don`t charge for a while they will cannot be charged with enough volts to start a car.



Trickle charging is not good for lithiums.

Re: Car battery jumper boxes [Re: Rock Chuck] #15455708 11/25/20
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Originally Posted by Rock Chuck
Quote
Most V8 truck motors have 600 to 800 amp cold cranking batteries for a reason.
Those 800 CCA batteries don't last as long on the average as the 600 to 700 ones. To get the extra amps, they make the plates thinner so they can get more in the case. The thin plates crack easier and the batteries fail. Sometimes bigger isn't better.
Now, back to the jump starters.....

I hear ya Chuck.
Yeah, VA hunter, enlighten me...



Re: Car battery jumper boxes [Re: Hubert] #15455768 11/25/20
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Jumper packs/jumper boxes/jumping in general:
Why do you need to do any of the above?
A battery that needs jumped really needs charged. To test if it will charge, blow up or be worth a damn, use a hydrometer. EZ Red makes a perfectly good one for a novice (flooded/wet battery). More than 25 points variance from any cell is a dead cell/unequalized battery; aint no saving it.
(If there is solid/slush present, dont jump! The chemical process in charging/jumping needs the liquid/elecrolyte; a solid makes the energy introduced go elsewhere!)
Throwing it on a charger (or jumping it) is a waste of time and a possible kaboom if cells are not equal specific gravity.
If all cells are level, but low (under 1175), jump, go home and CHARGE the battery. 2 amps for 24 hours or 36 wont hurt anything if the battery is low. No, jumping it and drivjng it isnt going to fix anything. You will have to jump it again and when you get it tested with a digital tester at any shop or dealership, it will give a printout of "replace", even if there is nothing wrong with the battery.. .
If you have an AGM battery and it has been "tested", especially with a digital tester/printout analysis, look at both voltage and CCA figures.
If it says, for example 300 CCA, the battery voltage is 12.54 and the battery was tested at 700 CCA, the printout will tell you the battery needs replaced, but it really needs charged.
Batteries out of everyday driven cars/alternator charging will always be at or above 13 volts, in Fords over 14. Half the CCA at "12 volts" in a car driven at least once a week is a red flag for discharge, not replacement.
If its a wet battery, test with a hydrometer. If all cells are even and low (under 1250 or lower), its discharged. A battery test that doesnt test the chemical isnt a battery test, period.

Jump packs:

Most are SLA/AGM and will run 200-300 CCA. Charge every 6 months stationary or top off after use. Do not leave constantly plugged in.
Lithium jump packs need charged 6-8 months between actual use and their output CCA wise is about the same, but with fewer full output jumps. Charge the same. Do not leave plugged in.



Re: Car battery jumper boxes [Re: jeffbird] #15455786 11/25/20
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Originally Posted by jeffbird
I went through this last summer.

A F250 diesel needs a unit with at least 3,000 amps.

I tried a 2,000 amp unit and it was just a bit too weak.

Read the specs on the box closely before buying.


Lemme guess, you have two 850 CCA *or higher group 65s) and your jumping it too?

Your problem is at least one battery is totally cooked and your solution is more perceived amps. The resistence for one dog schidt battery is what your fighting.

Two things: ditch the high CCA batteries. Go 750 or 650, or spend more money on a warranty you pay for up front for a system that cooks the [bleep] out of stuff that you dont need.
The ratings on jump packs are not regulated, dont mean squat and arent a solution to your problem...

But Im sure if someone put 5000 amps on a jump pack or 1500 CCA on your group 65s you'd still find the need for a 6000amps/ 2000 CCA to "fix" the pre-engineered problem....



Re: Car battery jumper boxes [Re: simonkenton7] #15455816 11/25/20
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Originally Posted by simonkenton7
I have been studying up on this today. Numerous web sites say, you probably are OK with conventional car to car jumping, if:

1. Cut off the engine of the good vehicle.
2. Connect the hot cable to the hot post on dead battery. Then connect it to the hot post on good car.
3. Connect the negative cable to the good battery post.
4. Connect the negative cable to the engine area of the non functional car. Not to the negative terminal, but to a metal part that is not painted.

Then crank up the good car. Then, to really play it safe, run the car for five minutes. This should charge the dead battery. Disconnect and fire up the once-dead car.

I have been pretty much doing it this way as I have jumped post 2000 model cars on at least a dozen occasions and never caused any damage. I did not wait five minutes to charge the battery, I just cranked up the good car and started the kaput car right up. Also I have not connected to a non painted metal part, I connect right to the negative post of the dead battery.

Maybe I have been lucky.

As I said above, once I began reading this thread this morning, I bought a charger from Amazon for 98 bucks.

I am still a Boy Scout at heart. Be Prepared.


Good on you.

Any battery charging up in five minutes, regardless of composition, method or voodoo is bullshit, even if the goverment, the internet and the Bible says so.

Jesus.....



Re: Car battery jumper boxes [Re: Hubert] #15456059 11/26/20
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My portable battery pack is good for about 30 jumps. Had a battery go bad on my bear hunt in Sept while truck was at end of a trail. Jumped it and got out with no issues. Had to jump it at camp and then next morning to get to town to buy a new battery.

Just hunted Kansas and had to different young families on Thanksgiving trips need jumps parked at gas stations. No big deal with the battery jumper. Blue lights still indicate about 75% charge remaining. It'll get charged when it goes below 50% is my plan.

Needing to buy 2 for my kids.

Re: Car battery jumper boxes [Re: Hubert] #15456070 11/26/20
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For those that have what the oldest thats still working.Do the have a date code on them don't want to buy one thats been setting in the store for 5 years.

Re: Car battery jumper boxes [Re: Hubert] #15456079 11/26/20
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Purchased 1 from Napa, a 400 something or another. It’s probably not big enough to jumpstart a semi, but works great on cars, 4 wheelers and such.

Re: Car battery jumper boxes [Re: Hubert] #15456248 11/26/20
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my final thoughts......

NOCO or any of them...under $100

Are better than the one you don't have in your car---truck---UTV

Just like the primer shortage......be prepared

[Linked Image from images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com]

Re: Car battery jumper boxes [Re: Hubert] #15456300 11/26/20
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I do have one pointer about battery maintenance. Don't check fluid level with a cigarette lighter.
When I was a paramedic I worked 3 cases where guys wanted to check the fluid level. The removed the little caps and they got their face right down next to the battery, so they could see it well. They lit up the Bic and the battery exploded.

When I got there, the guy is jumping around and screaming, his face is covered with battery acid.
You would think it would cause blindness but not necessarily so. You have to "irrigate" the eyes. These three calls were all at houses, I would grab the guy and pull/drag him into the bathroom, turn on the shower, and, fully dressed I got into the shower with him and sprayed shower water into his eyes. I held his head and held his eyes open.

Did that for about 15 minutes, then hauled ass to the hospital, all three of those guys had their vision saved.

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