Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles 358 Win Pre-64 Fwt

I'd say that's good enough for anything in Louisiana or most other places!

I think so. I was pretty surprised when that group happened. I'm not sure how a 5 shot group would look, probably pretty good.

CEB bullets are pretty pricey, but they are accurate with great terminal performance. If I was in a lead free zone, these would be my first line bullets.

As it is, they are high on my list of hunting bullets. Concerning the cost, how many do we actually shoot at game. My idea, shoot enough to get the gun sighted, then shoot cheaper stuff for practice.

Surprisingly, the 150 gr. Raptor, while accurate, couldn't match the 160's. This gun wasn't impressed with the 200 gr. NAB's, didn't seem to like NPT's. The 178 gr. Hammer shot pretty well, nothing was able to match the 160 gr. Raptor.

DF

Well maybe, maybe not....

This gun, even though it's a 12 twist, has always preferred lighter bullets. I have no idea why, just go with what it shows me.

The 160 CEB Raptor was a bonus. I'm gonna post pictures of the gun with the Trijicon 3-9x40 Accupoint in horizontal Warne rings. I was thinking I was going to have to shim a base, as I was near the edge of the scope adjustment when I found the right zero. But, it's working and I'm not gonna worry about it. And, even at the edge of adjustment range, the Trijicon sight picture and glass clarity is perfect. So, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

DF

twist has more to do with length of bullets than weight...

I agree that twist has more to do with bullet length than weight.

But, a 12 twist .358 Win isn't slow, should be fast enough to stablilze heavier, longer bullets.

I wasn't expecting a 12 twist to prefer lighter weight bullets. I know, non-lead bullets tend to be long for weight as they're less dense than lead.

I just ordered more 160 gr. CEB Raptors, have plenty of X-Term. Even though I've tried all sorts of bullets and loads, I think the 160 Raptor may become the main hunting bullet for this gun.

DF

Nice looking setup. What was the original chambering? And what's it weigh as is? That ought to put the thump on anything on either side of the Mississippi River.

7 #, 13 oz as it sits. It was a shot out .243 before JES got it. He took out a good bit of metal which probably helped with the weight. I reworked the stock, glassed and free floated it. I was surprised how well this load worked. Expensive bullets, but they do what they’re advertised to do.

If you’ve priced an original Pre-64 FWT .358 Win, you’ll appreciate a JES conversion. And I believe this one will shoot with any original and for a LOT less money. He does good work, is fast and not that expensive.

DF

I think you crushed it. Perfect hunting rifle for back east! Looks like it is shooting really well. All of my JES guns have been excellent as well. Not a complaint about them.

I had a custom shop 358 win model 70… nice rifles…

I like it!

Well, they tend to foul a good bit until smoothed out by use. I did the DBC treatment, which helped. The more shoot and clean cycles, the better it did. DBC really works, IMO....

JES seems to get a lot of work and for a reason.

DF

A Loony just can't help being a Loony.

I have more scope combos, load combos for this .358 Win than about any rifle I've ever fooled with and that includes a bunch.

The Trijicon 3-9x40 in the horizontal Warne med rings was within 4 clicks of being at the edge of the adjustment range. It worked OK,

But, a Loony just doesn't like that. So, I've ordered a medium set of Burris Signature rings and an offset insert set. I've adjusted the Trijicon to the center of the adjustment range. I went from end to end and found there were 270 clicks, wall to wall. So, I went half way with elevation and windage, which should have the reticle pretty well centered.

I'm going to manipulate the offset inserts until it's as close as I can get it, then fine tune POI with the scope adjustments. To the Trijicon's credit, there was no evidence of optical issues at the edge of the adjustment range. It's just the idea more than anything.

I've never used Signature rings, but have read good things about them. I think I can bore sight the rifle, adjust the offsets to get pretty close, then shoot it.

Those rings aren't as easy to remove and replace as the Warnes. Hopefully, I can remove the bottom screws and slide the rings off the bases.

Any advice?

DF

I have had to use the Burris rings a few times, especially on P64's. My 338 Alaskan is bad enough that it just about maxes out elevation in a scope on flat mounts, so the Burris XTR's work perfect to get some elevation back into the mix.

They are a bit of a pain to get mounted, but I wouldn't fret it too much DF, Favor the insert to the windage correction and I bet you'll be darned close.

I haven't tried sliding them off like that but I think it might work since the Burris rings with inserts will take the stress off the tube.

Have you held it against a mirror to check?

I put the 1.75x6 on the .358 while working out details with the Trijicon rings. It works well with this round, 1.75X for fast shots, 6X for longer shots. It's always a good option.

The VX-3 3-9x40 CDS that went bonkers, was repaired by Leupold and is now on my Ruger 77 Mk-II.

DF

I remember something about that trick. Tell me again how it works.

DF

Found this on line. I think Leupold has it on their website, although this is from another source.

Centering of a scope's adjustment dials
The elevation and windage adjustments of a scope are easily centered. Place a small mirror against the objective end of the scope. That would be the end farthest from your eye as you look through the scope. Make certain that the mirror is large enough to cover the entire objective. It must also be flat against the objective. With the scope's power selector ring set at the lowest magnification, look through the eyepiece as you would while aiming at a target. If the scope's windage and elevation adjustments are off center, you will see two images of the reticle (cross-hair). To reach the center of the adjustment range, simply turn the elevation and windage dials until you see only one image of the reticle.

DF

That's interesting info about P-64's and scope rings. I didn't realize that until I was working with this one.

DF

Press the objective end of the scope against a firmly mounted wall mirror and look into the scope. When the adjustments are off center you'll see two reticles. Turn the adjustments until the two appear as one and it'll be pretty close to centered.

I see you beat me to it.