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Been reloading since I was 13, never used nickel plated brass, but now have some.

Might be a dumb question but...does the obvious difference in how it feels to the touch ("slicker" than s***) carry forward to when it is fired and result in less grip to chamber walls and more thrust to the bolt?

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Lots of high psi rifle and handgun cartridges are loaded in nickel cases. I use them for my wife’s .338 WM with pretty warm loads.....no apparent issues.

I would assume no real discernible difference, provided that the chamber nor the case is slick with lube! JMO. memtb


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I do not think there is a slickness problem, but you will probably will have to set
you sizer die different than for straight brass for head spacing.


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I’m NAGW, and I may be the exception, but I’ve never reloaded any nickel plated brass.


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I load Winchester's nickel plated brass in my .280 Rem. so as to differentiate between .270 and .280 brass. I haven't had any problems with the nickel plated brass. I even anneal them the same way as yellow brass.
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Murkydismal: I have used "nickel plated" brass for my reloading/shooting for a VERY long time. Probably 50+ years.
I use nickel plated brass in some of my Rifles in calibers:
17 Remington
22 Hornet
222 Remington
223 Remington
22-250 Remington
220 Swift
243 Winchester
280 Remington
308 Winchester
Never had even problem #1 with them nor with the dies I load them in.
I like nickel plated brass - always have.
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Originally Posted by michiganroadkill
I do not think there is a slickness problem, but you will probably will have to set
you sizer die different than for straight brass for head spacing.


Why?



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I used to load .45 ACP nickle brass. Taper crimped. I thought I had problems getting the nickle brass to hold tightly to the bullet. No problem with nonplated brass so I gave all of my nickle brass away.
Maybe just my imagination. No problems noted with .40 or 9mm.

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Why?
Nickle plated brass is 'stiffer' than regular brass.
I set my sizing die for the brass to just clear compressed fit when bolt closed.
In all the nickle plated brass I have used over the years, I have needed to
set the die a bit lower to get the head space fit up I want.
I size to fit a specific guns chamber on my bolts and single shot guns.
Just me I guess. Maybe most everyone else sizes down further to start out.


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Biggest problem I've ever had is it is tough on case trimmer cutter heads. Nickle is hard.


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Originally Posted by Featherweight6555
Biggest problem I've ever had is it is tough on case trimmer cutter heads. Nickle is hard.

Exactly this^^^


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I have found nickel plated brass to be good for AI cartridges


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Originally Posted by murkydismal
Been reloading since I was 13, never used nickel plated brass, but now have some.

Might be a dumb question but...does the obvious difference in how it feels to the touch ("slicker" than s***) carry forward to when it is fired and result in less grip to chamber walls and more thrust to the bolt?


It's also more brittle.

Had a factory Winchester 7-08 cartridge split upon firing and got hot powder and gas to the face.

I'll take the brass made of brass, thanks.


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Originally Posted by autoshopteacher
I used to load .45 ACP nickle brass. Taper crimped. I thought I had problems getting the nickle brass to hold tightly to the bullet.


Any chance the nickel plated .45s were Remington? And were you using .451" jacketed/cast bullets?

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Originally Posted by TexasPhotog
Originally Posted by murkydismal
Been reloading since I was 13, never used nickel plated brass, but now have some.

Might be a dumb question but...does the obvious difference in how it feels to the touch ("slicker" than s***) carry forward to when it is fired and result in less grip to chamber walls and more thrust to the bolt?


It's also more brittle.

Had a factory Winchester 7-08 cartridge split upon firing and got hot powder and gas to the face.

I'll take the brass made of brass, thanks.



Nickel brass is brass. Early nickel plated brass was just that but current "plated" brass appears to be more of a wash than actual plating. At least that's what it looks like on my Winchester .280 Rem. brass. Seems to wear off fairly quickly after a few sessions in the tumbler.
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Am liking the Starline nickel .45-70, .44 mag and .480 Ruger cases.


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/quote]

It's also more brittle.

Had a factory Winchester 7-08 cartridge split upon firing and got hot powder and gas to the face.

I'll take the brass made of brass, thanks.
[/quote]

Have not found that to be true--especially because nickel-plated brass is just that--brass plated with a thin coat of nickel. There are NO cases made entirely of nickel.

Dunno why the 7mm-08 case you cite split, but it was NOT due to being nickel-plated.


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I have used nickel plated brass in .257 Roberts, .35 Whelen, and .30-06 without issues. The .35W is all fired Federal brass from Trophy Bonded Bear Claw ammo and the others are (were) new Remington bulk brass. I saw someone here on the Fire had some nickel plated .300 Weatherby cases. Now that would bring the bling!


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I prefer nickeled cases when I can find them as they don't scuz up so bad in the wet conditions here. Having used them in both pistol and rifle applications for a couple decades, I can say there's no difference between plated and unplated brass. Now, if anyone has any nickel plated .458 cases they want to part with.........help a brother out!

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I had a 17 rem built several years ago with a fairly tight chamber. During initial load development I used R-P brass ( non nickel plated). I then bought a few hundred R-P brass that were nickel. I used the same load data as before and it was clearly over pressure. I assumed it was due to the necks being thicker from the nickel plating and there not being enough room in the throat of the chamber to allow the neck to swell and let go of the bullet. I went back to std brass and the problem went away. That nickel brass now belongs to a Rem 700 .17 and I’ve. Never had any issues with it in the other rifle. I thought about turning the necks a bit but never tried that.

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