Please.let me know what knife(s) you use for field dressing elk. Pictures appreciated. I'm looking for one knife to carry and not interested in the replaceable blade category. Thanks all!
I used a Carbon Steel Recon Tanto (7") on my first cow elk. I reamed her bung hole, opened her up, split the brisket up into neck for windpipe, dress her out, and get this...it would still shave hair off my arm! I have since gone to a San Mai Outdoorsman also by Cold Steel. I usually tale several other knives in my daypack honed razor sharp IF I need them. I also have a Tim Wegnor Clip It folder that is awesome, used on some African game. It may be worth it to you to look at the "Diamond Blade" knives. They claim they stay sharp for 5-6 deer before touch up. Good luck to you Pard!
I have used an Ingram on roughly 3-400 animals primarily elk. Before that I used a bench made fixed blade with D2 with great success. Really depends on what you want. Utility or something that you’ll appreciate more. Anything will work. I’ve gutted and skinned a cow with a 2.5” folding buck knife.
I have used an Ingram on roughly 3-400 animals primarily elk. Before that I used a bench made fixed blade with D2 with great success. Really depends on what you want. Utility or something that you’ll appreciate more. Anything will work. I’ve gutted and skinned a cow with a 2.5” folding buck knife.
Holy Smokes Dogpopper, you must be one hellava Guide, that's incredible!
Hi BCHunter666, I swear by these knives, the Outdoor Edge SwingBlade and the Fish and Bone Folding Knife, and have cleaned many moose and deer in the field alone with these knives. Best knives I have ever had, not expensive either.
Push the lock button and the SwingBlade® changes from a drop-point skinner to the ultimate gutting blade to open the game like a zipper! When I hunt alone, I want the sharpest and most compact knife to get the job done quickly. I do my own butchering, so when I get my animals home I want the meat as clean as possible and without hair all over the meat, the drop-point eliminates that issue.
The Fish and Bone Folding Knife is awesome for doing detailed work when removing the backstraps, rib work, and deboning. But in all honesty, I can do it all the the SwingBlade.
When I do a deer, the SwingBlade does the job without having to sharpen it. When I do a moose I typically sharpen it 1/2 way through, I do not like working with blades that are not razor sharp to avoid any forcing and cutting myself. I sharpen it with an Accusharp and it only takes a few strokes to get the job done.
I wear them on my belt, they are nice and light, very compact and out of the way.
1980s Gerber bolt action exchange. I’ve been using it since new. It’s from when they were made in the USA. I’ve bought several off of the internet. Just recently picked one up for my new grandson. They can still be found. They have two blades and a handy saw. Easily get through boning out an elk
Bucklite 422’s. I have 5 of ‘em. First three were given to me as tips. Decided to lighten the load and give them a try one year. Chose the one with an orange handle and the dropped the knife in 14” of fresh powder while dressing an elk. I immediately understood the value of a blaze orange handle. I like the light weight and that they fold.
I have two custom fixed blades, including a Ingram given to me as a tip. I appreciate the workmanship and beauty, but I keep using the Bucklites.
Casey
Not being married to any particular political party sure makes it a lot easier to look at the world more objectively... Having said that, MAGA.
Cool! About 10 years ago I broke the tip wrangling the ivories out for a client. Man was I pizzed at myself. I sent the knife to Buck with a note detailing my sad tale. Gave my contact info and asked them to contact me with the cost. Didn’t hear from them and 3 weeks later the knife with a new blade arrived.
Buck made a fan out of me.
Casey
Not being married to any particular political party sure makes it a lot easier to look at the world more objectively... Having said that, MAGA.
I have couple fixed blade knives with D2 steel and they can get razor sharp. I carry that on my belt. But I still carry an outdoor edge in the back pack for skinning and braking down an animal, using the Gutless method. After all the meat is off. I open the guts and get the heart, liver and tenderloin. Outdoor edge blades are much easier to swap out than havalon. I know you said no replacement blades. Much easier swapping out a blade than trying to sharpen on the spot when your hands are numb and bloody . To each his own
All of them do something better than the 30-06, but none of them do everything as well.
I see so many knifes with less than stellar steel. Lot's of stainless that is corrosion resistant but I will give up corrosion resistant for an edge that stays sharp. A2 steel or better. HRC of 57 and better. It's the old "a rusty knife cuts the best" kind of thing.
kwg
For liberals and anarchists, power and control is opium, selling envy is the fastest and easiest way to get it. TRR. American conservative. Never trust a white liberal. Malcom X Current NRA member.
I see so many knifes with less than stellar steel.
kwg
We should have a thread on this topic. I have knives with better steel than the 420 HC used in the Gator. A couple of things: first, I use the gutless method on elk. I have not gutted one in 10 years. Contact time with bones is minimal - basically digging around the humerous-pelvis to cut all the tendons/ligaments holding them together, scraping the ribs when taking out the backstrap, separating the front shoulders. Fairly light duty.
Second, in almost 50 years of hunting, I've found 3 knives, all obviously related to gut piles. Nothing expensive but a Case XX, a Buck, and a Queen Steel (I'm from PA, fairly common up there). I still have 2 of the 3. I've never left a knife in the woods - but have laid them down and had to look for them. As pointed out more than 4-5" snow makes finding a dropped knife interesting. All that to say, I'd be pretty pissed if I left a $300 knife in the woods.
My other point, that cheap Gator stays sharp for its intended purpose. I have quartered 2 elk back to back with 1 knife using the gutless method, and is was still sharp enough to do a third. This past year I gutted 3 deer. Still sharp enough to do more.
All that said, the $40 Gators have been sufficient for me. I admire really nice blades but what else could a $300 knife provide?
I would be interested in a folding knife with more colorful handle with better steel and overall lighweight that is sub $100. Examples?
I have this Ingram and a Havalon. The Ingram sharpens very easy and will do an entire elk from start to end on a good blade. I also use the Havalon and can get an entire elk with one blade. I carry both cause I believe in the one is none mantra
Oh and I had mine made orange for just the reason Bill mentioned. Dropping it, in the dark. Wanted the best chance of me finding it.
I have this Ingram and a Havalon. The Ingram sharpens very easy and will do an entire elk from start to end on a good blade. I also use the Havalon and can get an entire elk with one blade. I carry both cause I believe in the one is none mantra
Oh and I had mine made orange for just the reason Bill mentioned. Dropping it, in the dark. Wanted the best chance of me finding it.
I used a Carbon Steel Recon Tanto (7") on my first cow elk. I reamed her bung hole,
That reminded me of the time my buddt took a young man hunting. The guy kills his first deer and in the process of gutting it my buddy tells him to ream the bung hole. He said the next thing he see’s is the guy with his fingers inside the deers ass pulling out turd. Said he nearly died Laughing. Anyways Kershaw Alaskan blade trader
When I lived in Montana I had that knife on top. Was one of my all time favorites. It got better when I took it in and had the blade flat ground. No idea what ever happened to it. My next favorite was a Puma Hunters Friend I think it was called. Lost it on a hunting trip and was never able to find another. These days my favorite knives are Schrade knives with drop point's. I have a custom knife that really is beautiful but the steel is to hard. Makes sharpening take more time. Few years ago I got aa Buck sheath knife with a drop point. First Buck knife I ever saw I liked. At some point they quit making that horrible beveled edge and this in the first one I've seen. Got a Buck skinning knife several years ago as a judges gift at a field trial. Hollow ground and pretty small but beautiful job! But for a hunting knife I do prefer about 6" fixed blade knives. But them I also use several of my Schrade folders now and then also. Something that occurred to me about my Schrade knives is they are made to use. Little softer steel makes keeping the edge sharp. My Buck's and my custom were made for bragging rights, selling points. Hard steel blades and beautiful wood handles. Favorite knives still today are my Schrade's!
Well I hate to be the one Luddite in this fraternity but never carried a sheath other than my sailing and rigging days so all my Elk, deer and antelope chores have been done satisfactorily with my old Boker two blade ‘ Trapper ‘ folder. Certainly not fancy just a bone handle good solid bolsters and most of all a high carbon blade. These days I carry one of those small diamond two grit sharpeners and a couple of quick swipes skinning and it’s fresh. Don’t like any of the different stainless alloy blades never as sharp. I get my Elk down the hardest part at my age is turning them over tie them off belly up with couple of stakes and some small line so I can get to work. My knife has a round tipped Spey blade which ain’t a bad skinner just a bit slow. I also carry my trusty Wyoming saw for bone. Anyway I don’t feel like I’m ill-equipped at all and I’ve had my share of ungulates.
When I lived in Montana I had that knife on top. Was one of my all time favorites. It got better when I took it in and had the blade flat ground. No idea what ever happened to it.
Don, I had a Grohmann / DH Russell #1 Canadian Belt Knife from the 1960's. It was my favorite knife. My father happened to be on a trip through Pictou Nova Scotia and dropped in at the Grohmann factory. He bought the knife in the photo in the fall of 1997 and gave it to me for Christmas that year, not knowing it was already my favorite knife. I gave the old one to a friend, and have taken the bulk of the game I've shot here in Montana with that knife. I think of my dad (who turns 95 next month) every time I use it. I find it an essentially perfect knife for game. I've used other knives including small folders like the Gerber LST, but I always go back to the Grohmann. BTW, they do make it with a flat grind available.
“Perfection is Achieved Not When There Is Nothing More to Add, But When There Is Nothing Left to Take Away” Antoine de Saint-Exupery
I use the same knives for elk and deer, but haven't been hunting elk as much in recent years. These 3 have gotten a lot of use on whitetails the last couple years and I would use them on elk without hesitation.
I carry the paklite skeletonized Buck skinner, caper, boning knife and the outdoor edge grizz saw.
I’ve used other knives with more comfortable handles including a beautiful custom from Alaska. I’m never going to fall in love with them but as a tool these work fine & I carry them so much more often than use them so the lightweight is important.
The skinner is enough to get the job done using the gutless method. The boning saw is nice getting meat off the bone particularly backstraps.
I see so many knifes with less than stellar steel.
kwg
We should have a thread on this topic. I have knives with better steel than the 420 HC used in the Gator. A couple of things: first, I use the gutless method on elk. I have not gutted one in 10 years. Contact time with bones is minimal - basically digging around the humerous-pelvis to cut all the tendons/ligaments holding them together, scraping the ribs when taking out the backstrap, separating the front shoulders. Fairly light duty.
Second, in almost 50 years of hunting, I've found 3 knives, all obviously related to gut piles. Nothing expensive but a Case XX, a Buck, and a Queen Steel (I'm from PA, fairly common up there). I still have 2 of the 3. I've never left a knife in the woods - but have laid them down and had to look for them. As pointed out more than 4-5" snow makes finding a dropped knife interesting. All that to say, I'd be pretty pissed if I left a $300 knife in the woods.
My other point, that cheap Gator stays sharp for its intended purpose. I have quartered 2 elk back to back with 1 knife using the gutless method, and is was still sharp enough to do a third. This past year I gutted 3 deer. Still sharp enough to do more.
All that said, the $40 Gators have been sufficient for me. I admire really nice blades but what else could a $300 knife provide?
I would be interested in a folding knife with more colorful handle with better steel and overall lighweight that is sub $100. Examples?
Ontario RAT I
Bore size is no substitute for shot placement and Power is no substitute for bullet performance. 458WIN
For 40 some years I carried a Westmark 5" fixed blade knife. Used it on dozens of elk, dozens of deer, dozens of antelope, 3 moose, etc, etc. Cool looking knife but wouldn't hold an edge for very long so I've also carried a folding sharpening steel.
About 10 years ago I got an Outdoor Edge Swingblade and have used it ever since. With RMEF promotions, I have a box full of Outdoor Edge knives and knife sets. Most are unused. I also carry a folding Outdoor Edge with replaceable blades. It is great for skinning out heads.
My everyday carry knife is a small, 2" blade folding knife. When I shot my Leopard in Mozambique a few years ago, the camp skinners were skinning him and I went over to them, brought out my 2" knife, and asked if I could help. They all got a good laugh.
I've only killed one elk. I used the same Case trapper that I use on deer. It was a lot more work to skin and debone an elk v a deer. Definitely glad it had a second blade.
MedRiver, I have one close to your style of knife that I got in 1973, yours has about 75 percent more blade left than mine . been good for a lot of meat & fish cut up . edit I just went out side to look and it prob. is the same brand its been sharped up past the name ,point is about 1/4" wide .
Please.let me know what knife(s) you use for field dressing elk. Pictures appreciated. I'm looking for one knife to carry and not interested in the replaceable blade category. Thanks all!
Havalon was mentioned at least twice early in this thread despite BCHunter specifically stating he isn't interested in a replaceable blade knife. I don't think people who like Havalon knives understand they have a different psychological makeup than those who don't want the added stress of a flimsy blade when trying to cut up an animal quickly.
I have a couple nice custom knives and they are very nice for taking care of an animal, but depending on your budget it would be hard to beat a good old Buck 110 folder with a belt sheath. I find I use my 110 more than all my other knives combined on everything from squirrels and rabbits to elk and moose and it works great every time. When a custom knife will run you anywhere from $250 to $400 or more, a good inexpensive Buck won't make you cry if you lose it in the woods like I have mine a couple times. My buck takes and holds and edge very well and just plain works . The folder sheath keeps it out of my way better than my fixed blade knives so I have it on me all the time. I find my fixed blade knives in their sheath migrate to my pack and are available when I need them, but my 110 is always right on my hip where I can grab it and use it for whatever needs done ...
Never underestimate your ability to overestimate your ability.
20 year old Buck 110. Always on my belt during hunting season. I’m not good at sharpening but I can always put a good edge on the Buck. I can field dress an elk and it’s still sharp enough to skin it when it’s hung in the shop.
Also carry a Buck paklite, don’t remember the model, in my pack. For a backup. Never have needed it though. And I always have a Schrade 30T in my pocket at all times. I wouldn’t be afraid to take on any task with the mighty little lockback.
Bucklite 422’s. I have 5 of ‘em. First three were given to me as tips. Decided to lighten the load and give them a try one year. Chose the one with an orange handle and the dropped the knife in 14” of fresh powder while dressing an elk. I immediately understood the value of a blaze orange handle. I like the light weight and that they fold.
I have two custom fixed blades, including a Ingram given to me as a tip. I appreciate the workmanship and beauty, but I keep using the Bucklites.
Side question.. How are buck 442's different than 110 or 112's?
I've been thinking about getting a plastic orange 112 and I suspect its a similar knife?
Some friends were hunting with Hellsaroarin I offered some knives for them to try out. The guide liked the Charles May best. Really like it. D2……always choose it if possible…….as a tool&die maker it is my choice for fine steel 13% chromium 1.5% carbon. Takes and hold an edge.
Some friends were hunting with Hellsaroarin I offered some knives for them to try out. The guide liked the Charles May best. Really like it. D2……always choose it if possible…….as a tool&die maker it is my choice for fine steel 13% chromium 1.5% carbon. Takes and hold an edge.
For carbon steel blades I love to use D2. However, I now grind PSF27, aka: “CPMD2”. Same steel, just made using the CPM (Crucible Particle Metallurgy) process. Results in a much more uniform distribution of carbides in the finished product. It’s simply a no brainer to use PSF27 now. Getcha some.
You only live once, but...if you do it right, once is enough.
TOPS knives Brothers of Bushcraft is my go-to with a carbon Mora for a backup, I want knives that not only do well skinning and quartering but will serve well for camp/bushcraft/survival type tasks if things don't go as planned. Always have a Zero Tolerance 0301ST clipped in front pocket as well.
1980s Gerber bolt action exchange. I’ve been using it since new. It’s from when they were made in the USA. I’ve bought several off of the internet. Just recently picked one up for my new grandson. They can still be found. They have two blades and a handy saw. Easily get through boning out an elk
Shawn
That knife system was actually developed for Gerber by a campfire member.
I'm afraid that I can't recall the member's name now however.
Maybe another old timer here on the 'Fire may recall who it was.
TOPS knives Brothers of Bushcraft is my go-to witha carbon Mora for a backup, I want knives that not only do well skinning and quartering but will serve well for camp/bushcraft/survival type tasks if things don't go as planned. Always have a Zero Tolerance 0301ST clipped in front pocket as well.
I do the same.
Those carbon steel Mora knives with a plastic sheath cost the equivalent of about 8 American bucks here in Sweden.
I apply a coat or Renaissance wax to the blade when new, and they don't rust (so far, anyway)
I have one of these Mora knives in every backpack and coat that I have - just in case. :-)
Few people would think this an ideal fish knife, but I've cleaned more than a few trout, grayling and pike with one of mine.
I have a couple nice custom knives and they are very nice for taking care of an animal, but depending on your budget it would be hard to beat a good old Buck 110 folder with a belt sheath. I find I use my 110 more than all my other knives combined on everything from squirrels and rabbits to elk and moose and it works great every time. When a custom knife will run you anywhere from $250 to $400 or more, a good inexpensive Buck won't make you cry if you lose it in the woods like I have mine a couple times. My buck takes and holds and edge very well and just plain works . The folder sheath keeps it out of my way better than my fixed blade knives so I have it on me all the time. I find my fixed blade knives in their sheath migrate to my pack and are available when I need them, but my 110 is always right on my hip where I can grab it and use it for whatever needs done ...
Fully agree. Except, my "good old folder" is a Case XX Changer bone/brass. It was my five year employment reward. I never go into the woods without it.
Last edited by Reloder28; 01/24/24.
"I never thought I'd live to see the day that a U.S. president would raise an army to invade his own country." Robert E. Lee
When I lived in Montana I had that knife on top. Was one of my all time favorites. It got better when I took it in and had the blade flat ground. No idea what ever happened to it.
Don, I had a Grohmann / DH Russell #1 Canadian Belt Knife from the 1960's. It was my favorite knife. My father happened to be on a trip through Pictou Nova Scotia and dropped in at the Grohmann factory. He bought the knife in the photo in the fall of 1997 and gave it to me for Christmas that year, not knowing it was already my favorite knife. I gave the old one to a friend, and have taken the bulk of the game I've shot here in Montana with that knife. I think of my dad (who turns 95 next month) every time I use it. I find it an essentially perfect knife for game. I've used other knives including small folders like the Gerber LST, but I always go back to the Grohmann. BTW, they do make it with a flat grind available.
For about 20 years, all I used was a Gerber Gator Mate for everything and a scalpel for caping. But over the past 4 years I’ve been trying different knives including Grohman #1, LT Wright Small Northern Hunter, Benchmade Altitude, Benchmade Steep Country, North Arms Knives Lynx.
So far the number one for me is Grohman #1 followed by Benchmade Steep Country, and those are the only two I have left. I have a Hogue Extrak coming in the mail that I will try this year.
Some friends were hunting with Hellsaroarin I offered some knives for them to try out. The guide liked the Charles May best. Really like it. D2……always choose it if possible…….as a tool&die maker it is my choice for fine steel 13% chromium 1.5% carbon. Takes and hold an edge.
For carbon steel blades I love to use D2. However, I now grind PSF27, aka: “CPMD2”. Same steel, just made using the CPM (Crucible Particle Metallurgy) process. Results in a much more uniform distribution of carbides in the finished product. It’s simply a no brainer to use PSF27 now. Getcha some.
Did not know it existed. CPM I knew we’ll. I remember first time I ground CPM T-15……SOOOOO easy compared to traditional T-15 Which you needed CBN wheels to it justice.
I haven’t followed materials as much any more. Did a lot of header tooling and punch press dies in The 70-80s
Did all our own heat treat ……HSS included so needed -160f coolers
Some friends were hunting with Hellsaroarin I offered some knives for them to try out. The guide liked the Charles May best. Really like it. D2……always choose it if possible…….as a tool&die maker it is my choice for fine steel 13% chromium 1.5% carbon. Takes and hold an edge.
For carbon steel blades I love to use D2. However, I now grind PSF27, aka: “CPMD2”. Same steel, just made using the CPM (Crucible Particle Metallurgy) process. Results in a much more uniform distribution of carbides in the finished product. It’s simply a no brainer to use PSF27 now. Getcha some.
Did not know it existed. CPM I knew we’ll. I remember first time I ground CPM T-15……SOOOOO easy compared to traditional T-15 Which you needed CBN wheels to it justice.
I haven’t followed materials as much any more. Did a lot of header tooling and punch press dies in The 70-80s
Did all our own heat treat ……HSS included so needed -160f coolers
Built our own vacuum HT furnaces.
Good times.
I’ll look for the CPM D-2 Thanks
Available pretty much at any knife materials supplier. I get mine from Pops Knife Supply
You only live once, but...if you do it right, once is enough.
Spent a bit of time yesterday watching it rain and reacquainted myself with knife steels. I landed where I did every time I look at it - a good blend of edge retention, corrosion resistance, and 'toughness'. Found several indepth websites discussing all the currently available steels used in knife making. Plus I don't want to spend $300.
I landed on 154 CM, ATS 54, S35VN steels as a good blend of the 3 characteristics I was interested in. A bunch of good knives on the market. Found a Buck I was not aware of. I've had a Buck knife (112 C) since I was 17 or 18. Pulled it out yesterday and cleaned it up. I quit using it when I started doing more backpack/long day hunts trying to save ounces.
I don't think the knife matters that much. I've skinned deer, antelope and elk will all sorts of blades including a Swiss army knife. Elk hair will dull any knife fast in my experience, regardless of steel. If I have it with me, I'll use a gut hook for cutting the hide. After that, every steel does just fine. Bucks 440 and 420 works just fine. I think Swiss Army knives use something similar. Also used ATS34, 1095, CPM Cru-wear (whatever that is), 154CM, and CPM-D2. The Benchmade Anonimus is my current goto and that's got the fancy CPM Cru-wear.
I always have a diamond rod or small diamond flat stone with me. One huge drawback to me is that the newer steels need diamond stones for sharpening. Gone is the Arkansas wet stone.
I don't think the knife matters that much. I've skinned deer, antelope and elk will all sorts of blades including a Swiss army knife. Elk hair will dull any knife fast in my experience, regardless of steel. If I have it with me, I'll use a gut hook for cutting the hide. After that, every steel does just fine. Bucks 440 and 420 works just fine. I think Swiss Army knives use something similar. Also used ATS34, 1095, CPM Cru-wear (whatever that is), 154CM, and CPM-D2. The Benchmade Anonimus is my current goto and that's got the fancy CPM Cru-wear.
I always have a diamond rod or small diamond flat stone with me. One huge drawback to me is that the newer steels need diamond stones for sharpening. Gone is the Arkansas wet stone.
Yep. The new “super” stainless steels can be a challenge for the everyday hunter to sharpen. Pretty much why I stick with CPM154 and PSF27. The CPM 154 IS one of the super stainless steels but is sharpenable by most folks that use it. You get much higher on that super stainless ladder and it can get iffy. Of course, heat treating, individual edge geometry and other items get thrown into the mix as well.
My blades are sharpened with diamond sharpeners when they leave my shop.
Last edited by Godogs57; 01/29/24.
You only live once, but...if you do it right, once is enough.
Thanks! I field dressed 6-7 deer with it last year and used it for some skinning as well. I may have stropped it on leather once or twice during the season but it's held it's edge through those animals. It is ready for it's first touch up on a stone now, but I've been more impressed with this one than any I've used to date.
Thanks! I field dressed 6-7 deer with it last year and used it for some skinning as well. I may have stropped it on leather once or twice during the season but it's held it's edge through those animals. It is ready for it's first touch up on a stone now, but I've been more impressed with this one than any I've used to date.
Lee referred to it as a B&T when he listed it. I purchased it from him here on the 'fire in 2019. I'd buy more of his knives, but haven't seen anything listed from him for a few years now.
Thanks! I field dressed 6-7 deer with it last year and used it for some skinning as well. I may have stropped it on leather once or twice during the season but it's held it's edge through those animals. It is ready for it's first touch up on a stone now, but I've been more impressed with this one than any I've used to date.
Beautiful knife. Which pattern is that?
Thanks.
Frank
Originally Posted by fshaw
Originally Posted by JGray
Originally Posted by gunnut308
Originally Posted by JGray
Nice!
Thanks! I field dressed 6-7 deer with it last year and used it for some skinning as well. I may have stropped it on leather once or twice during the season but it's held it's edge through those animals. It is ready for it's first touch up on a stone now, but I've been more impressed with this one than any I've used to date.
Beautiful knife. Which pattern is that?
Thanks.
Frank
A takeoff on Bob Dozier’s Buffalo River Hunter. A pretty common style among knifemakers because it works wonderfully with just about any task.
You only live once, but...if you do it right, once is enough.
Havalon. Haven't found a thing they won't do yet. Somethings not quite so well like fleshing a hide down. Where we lean on Green River patterns instead. But moose, bison, brown bears and things smaller down to our small deer, Havalon and never look back.
We can keep Larry Root and all his idiotic blabber and user names on here, but we can't get Ralph back..... Whiskey Tango Foxtrot, over....
Elk knife from this morning. To be honest the Ingram did the skinning but a carbon mora did the breaking down.
The carbon Moras are hard to beat. Wildchild was having to much fun and stole that one.
Congrats.
Thanks bud! Got it done with the lever gun. Good thing about stolen Moras is they’re cheap to replace! I must be getting less knife snobby in my old age! Lol
"I used to be a tired hunting guide, now I'm just a re-tired hunting guide"
"No eternal reward will forgive us now, for wasting the dawn" JM
Ingram Lite-Hunter set stays in my pack for everything. Deer, elk, the one moose I got in AB. 3" Lite-Hunter and 3" Bullnose Skinner both in S30V in a dual sheath.
I can walk on water.......................but I do stagger a bit on alcohol.
Havalon. Haven't found a thing they won't do yet. Somethings not quite so well like fleshing a hide down. Where we lean on Green River patterns instead. But moose, bison, brown bears and things smaller down to our small deer, Havalon and never look back.
My last experience with a Havalon was 2018. I killed a nice bull elk, gutted it out with a blade I made and off to the barn to skin it. My buddy decided he wanted to help me. Bull hanging up….get to work. He decides to skin the opposite side of the bull from me using a new Havalon. I finish skinning my bull down to the neck on my side. He has to stop and change blades skinning out the ham. By the time he finished his side 30 minutes later, he had swapped out blades SIX times on his Havalon. My blade had gutted the elk and skinned out one side…..still shaved. He has bought probably twenty blades from me and I told him he was insulting me by using a Walmart blade. We laughed. He thought I wasn’t looking when I saw him toss it in the garbage can out of the corner of my eye.
You only live once, but...if you do it right, once is enough.
I’ve been using the outdoor edge switchable blade setups with great success- I think that’s what they are. Orange handle. Everyone likes what they like. I never pack out a cape, many times leave the racks behind too. If I can’t eat it, I don’t want to pack it. I should state that I typically hunt roadless, pack in areas. This October, we made a 6 mile loop to get the bull back to the truck in 2 trips, 5 bags. If you are just 300-1000 yards from the truck, that’s a totally different perspective. Either way the switch blade setup and a cable saw, make quick work for me
Please.let me know what knife(s) you use for field dressing elk. Pictures appreciated. I'm looking for one knife to carry and not interested in the replaceable blade category. Thanks all!
The top knife was my Dad's when I was a kid. He bought it in '65/'66. I learned field dressing on deer/elk/bear/antelope with that knife. Honestly don't know how many it was used on, or even how many I used it on. DO know I used it on my own first mule deer and elk, and a [bleep] ton more until I graduated high school.
At that point I was gifted a Randall Model 8. When visiting my girlfriend, now my wife, down in Boise my truck was broken into and that knife stolen. I've HATED fV(king Boise with an undying passion since.
Anyway, needing a knife to hunt, I bought the second knife in the picture. It is the last year Buck used their awesome "woodpecker lips hard" 440C. I used that thing for decades on several continents.
Fast forward. Around 12 years ago I asked Gene Ingram to make me a whammer set based on the old school number 7, with a Lite Hunter and a Semi Skinner in S35VN. He did, and that's been my home use knives in Idaho ever since.
I have LOTS of nostalgia for Dad's knife, and a real fondness for my classic 110, and a hollow sense of loss for my Randall...but, all that said...wouldn't go back from the Ingram's today, tomorrow, or Sunday. They are simply a cut (pun) above...
Last edited by Journeyman; 02/02/24.
You can no more tell someone how to do something you've never done, than you can come back from somewhere you've never been...
Those are some classics right there! Love the opinel, so inexpensive and light, but super sharp and dependable. I remember seeing that Russell in the 1960s Eddie Bauer catalog.
I skinned and butchered 8 deer with a McCrosky Elk Skinner, and touched it up, just for giggles and grins afterwards. A friend had the McCroskey Trapper Set, and he skinned 300 Beaver that Winter and never touched up the knife.
I hate having to stop and touch up a knife in the middle of a skinning and butchering job.
A lot of knives went on Ebay after I discovered the McCroskey knives.
Don, I had a Grohmann / DH Russell #1 Canadian Belt Knife from the 1960's. It was my favorite knife. My father happened to be on a trip through Pictou Nova Scotia and dropped in at the Grohmann factory. He bought the knife in the photo in the fall of 1997 and gave it to me for Christmas that year, not knowing it was already my favorite knife. I gave the old one to a friend, and have taken the bulk of the game I've shot here in Montana with that knife. I think of my dad (who turns 95 next month) every time I use it.I find it an essentially perfect knife for game. I've used other knives including small folders like the Gerber LST, but I always go back to the Grohmann. BTW, they do make it with a flat grind available.
I agree with that statement. I've owned several over the years. I'm down to an old carbon #1 found in a pawn shop.
The drop point makes it easier for dressing game without nicking the paunch and for slitting the hide on the shanks when skinning. The elliptical blade is second to none for skinning as it allows the knife to be working no matter what angle you hold it. It's mall enough to work inside a deer and yet still large enough to dress and skin a moose. Perfection!
This combo and an OutdoorEdge Swing blade. This is a cheap way to go and it works. The saw is tough and is nice to have if limbs or branches need to be cleared out of the way or for processing a bit of wood to start a fire. It's an complete simple kit for wood or saw off skull caps.
The replacement blade knives like Havalon are good on flesh as they're basically scalpels but they lack true durability and utility.
Don, I had a Grohmann / DH Russell #1 Canadian Belt Knife from the 1960's. It was my favorite knife. My father happened to be on a trip through Pictou Nova Scotia and dropped in at the Grohmann factory. He bought the knife in the photo in the fall of 1997 and gave it to me for Christmas that year, not knowing it was already my favorite knife. I gave the old one to a friend, and have taken the bulk of the game I've shot here in Montana with that knife. I think of my dad (who turns 95 next month) every time I use it.I find it an essentially perfect knife for game. I've used other knives including small folders like the Gerber LST, but I always go back to the Grohmann. BTW, they do make it with a flat grind available.
I agree with that statement. I've owned several over the years. I'm down to an old carbon #1 found in a pawn shop.
The drop point makes it easier for dressing game without nicking the paunch and for slitting the hide on the shanks when skinning. The elliptical blade is second to none for skinning as it allows the knife to be working no matter what angle you hold it. It's mall enough to work inside a deer and yet still large enough to dress and skin a moose. Perfection!
TTT just to attach a pic since PM doesn't allow that option???
You can no more tell someone how to do something you've never done, than you can come back from somewhere you've never been...
I cannot recall the number of elk I have quartered up with a Mora. None cost $20.
The little carbon blades sharpen up quick and easy and the knives themselves are quite light.
Pack saw:
I usually take a couple and a tiny little ceramic sharpener, along with a small bone saw. No need to carry the extra weight of some of the heavier knives. In fact I weighed a couple of my "good" knives on my postal scale and while truly excellent knives, they weighed more than twice what the Mora knives weighed. I keep the good knives around for butchering when it is time to cut and wrap the animals at home. I have a bunch of good old Gerbers that get a workout for that kind of thing.
THE CHAIR IS AGAINST THE WALL.
The Tikka T3 in .308 Winchester is the Glock 19 of the rifle world.
Please.let me know what knife(s) you use for field dressing elk. Pictures appreciated. I'm looking for one knife to carry and not interested in the replaceable blade category. Thanks all!
This is a situation where the Indian is more important than the arrow. The last knife i remember using on an elk was a Gerber LMF, first generation, not the later one. Anything with a textured grip, blade 3-1/2 to 6 inches long, made of good steel that will hold an edge, and preferably has a bit of drop point, will work fine. On the little end I'd pick the Benchmade Steep Country, middle choices might be their Saddle Mountain Skinner, Buck Vanguard, or Cold Steel Master Hunter, and on the big end, probably Cold Steel's SRK. I do not care about full tang or how brittle the steel might be, etc on a *hunting* knife. It's not a wedge or a pry bar. It just has to cut and keep cutting.
I picked up a dealer-exclusive Cold Steel SRK-C, 5" version in CPM-3V steel, from Midway a couple months back. I expect it to replace current selections in my pack this coming fall.
I do carry a second knife. I like a smaller blade for 'inside work' like diaphragms and for "skinning the anus" if I am keeping the carcass whole rather than quartering / doing "the gutless method". Current selection is a middle size Gerber LST, however, I'm not thrilled with the steel on the newer ones. I used to use a folding knife for that and may go back. I've long carried a Gerber LST with about a 2-1/2" blade but it has become a box cutter and is often dull. Last year I had a Cold Steel Mini Pendleton in CPM-3V in my pack .. that fugger is scary sharp. Plenty light. Might stick with that, might slip the Benchmade mini Bugout to that role. No way to tell.
Anyone who thinks there's two sides to everything hasn't met a M�bius strip.