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Since you've tightened all the nuts and bolts, switch scopes and try some factory ammo. Also, ck to see that the barrel is in fact floated. I do not own a CZ, but what I hear locally is that they are very good in the accuracy dept. In a box of Win 180 power points, I found app. 80% had <.003 RO. You can actually see .004 and greater as the tips will wiggle as you roll them on a level surface. So, disgard any you can see wiggle, or best yet use a concentricity gauge if you have one. IMO.

art

Myexperience with the short mags has been very good...Have worked with them in LW as well as heavy match rifles. The .300 WSM is especially easy to get to shoot most anything. My son's Sako in .300 WSM is the most accurate factory rifle I have ever used.

As far as the flier could be everything from gun handling on the rest, bad beeding (my first guess ) Ammo quality, scope ..........?

LC

With heavy recoiling rifles, those Leopold dual dovetail rings and bases can cause problems. The rear dove tails ride up out of the groves in the screws.

There were some comments about this on her a few months ago, and other people said they had problems, also.

What happens, with a heavy scope and a light but heavy recoiling rifle, the scope and rings try to stay in one place and the rifle trys to jump out from under them. This causes the POI to change from shot to shot. Mule Deer has written about it, too.

I don't know how to do a search for the thread but you might want to look into it. One reader said he had seen the front ring actually bend from the force.

Also, check that all screws (action, bases, and mounts) are correctly tightened. Sounds to me like a POI shift instead of a flyer.

Steve,

I have a MRC 1999 300WSM and your CZ3 is the same action rebranded. The rifle was in a McMillan stock that was inletted very poorly in the barrel channel. I rebedded it with Devcon Steel putty at the recoil lug and under the chamber part of the barrel. Now the MRC is a bit different to the M70 in that the front part of the receiver protrudes past the recoil lug. In bedding you usually tape the bottom, sides & front of the recoil lug in a M70 type action. However, in doing this the front part of the receiver ring on the MRC can become bedded as it did in mine.

I found that "my rifle" still shot inconsistently with this bit bedded. I emphasise - my rifle, each will be different. You could check to see if this part is also bedded in your rifle. If so, I would suggest you remove the contact in this area.

The attached picture should show you what I mean.

Regards,
JohnT



In my case the answer: "Definitely grind a relief" . Also make sure the front action screw does not contact the hole in the stock at any point. Hopefully, whoever bedded your rifle has already done this. If not I'd be very suspicious of the whole bedding job.

Screw tension should be very tight up front & just tight up rear. Good luck.

Lots of great tips here; goes to show the problem could be a number of things. If you are using resized brass( or even if you are not) I would follow Thumper's advise and look at case runnout.A couple of 30/06's I loaded for behaved in a similar fashion,and paying attention to runnout cured the problem for me.

On the other hand I think you said it always seems to be a certain shot in the sequence that "flies out";since the rifle did not do this before, I'd suspect the bedding job as well.Somthing is moving around where it should not....

Lots of great advice thanks.

I do not think runout is the problem. All loads were tested with my Sinclair Concentricity gauge and had .002 or less.

I was not aware that the DD bases could be a problem. Tell me what I need and I will buy em. Even if the bases are not my problem I'll change em anyway just to be sure. This rifle is stainless.

I took a close look at everything today and it doesn't look all that good(I think). The bedding was done in two stages (Gunsmith's words). The front half around the recoil lug was done first. He also intentionally left a little finger of bedding compound that tapers towards the muzzle. After that was cured the rear tang area was done. The tang area has NO impression of the receiver. It looks as though the bedding compound was allowed to partially set up and was formed by hand, kinda like modeling clay. Then the bedding compound was ground away in some areas so the action would fit. Looks more like in-letting instead of bedding.
I'll see if I can clear this up with some pictures.

It also appears That the front action screw comes in contact with the stock. The rear one is close, but I think it is OK.

Thanks
Steve

DD's aren't a problem! it's the windage adjustable ones that can cause problems.

oh, and it sounds like bedding.......

This first picture is of the recoil lug area and that goofy little finger. It looks to me as though this little finger was done after the recoil lug. The light colored compound around that finger is also a bit higher than the rest. It also appears that there is some compound that was added on the sides just forward of the lug. These two spots are also high.


This is the rear tang area.

your bedding is messed up in the tang..

never mind... your bedding is screwed up everywhere......

I still would ck the scope out just by switching it. It's the easiest thing to do before you go to a rebedding job. You've got 3 shots in just over .5", then a monster flier. I don't think a bad barrel does that. I don't think bad bedding does that...but I think a scope can. Cripes, I only have one, maybe two, "bedded" rifles..ask JB about broken scopes, I read somewhere he's had quite a few. If I'm wrong, so be it, it's just so easy to eliminate.

art

Steve,

Looks like the person you used did not really understand the purpose of bedding. The below pic shows the only part of the rear that I would bed on a M70 style action.



If you are really good you could bed all round the action but that is far beyond my capabilities.

Steve, don't dispair have a look at the info on bedding on a search of this site & the internet. Get a copy of Richard Franklin's DVD on stress free pillar bedding if you want to do it yourself.

The exact same thing happened to me when I got a stockmaker who said he knew about glass bedding to do my Sako 308. Looks like he even used the same epxoy as on your rifle. My rifle also shot worse afterwards.

I watched the stress free DVD and I watched a mate do a bedding job on a Howa. After much procrastination and encouragement from my friend I took the plunge. Now I have done 3 jobs with the MRC being my first. So the good thing to come out of it is that I know how to do it myself now. I also learned a lot about my rifle in the process.

As you can see from your photos he also bedded the front action ring when he bedded the barrel. I'd get rid of that and leave the front of the action floating.

An MRC or M70 is actually quite straight forward to bed (Ruger's are a pain). I'd definitely recommend getting stock inletting screws or headless bolts if you can get em-prior to your doing the bedding job yourself. They certainly make things easier for the bedding process.

Look its a bit of a cock up but nothing that can't be fixed - and relatively easily at that.

Regards
JohnT

FWIW:

I had similar results with a 30-06 shooting TSXa, H4350, over Win LR primers.

Switched to Federal Match Primers--problem cured.

Go Figure.

BMT

"With heavy recoiling rifles, those Leopold dual dovetail rings and bases can cause problems. The rear dove tails ride up out of the groves in the screws."

"DD's aren't a problem! it's the windage adjustable ones that can cause problems."

My mistake. I got the two types confused. It is the mounts with the opposed windage screws that can cause problems.

I would check the gap between barrel and forend. If it is very close, it might be close enough to make contact during firing due to the weight of the rifle on the forend in the rest, or barrel vibration. This will cause flyers. If the barrel is to be floated, there should be "enough" gap there to make sure it stays floated in all firing positions. The only downside to a wider gap is appearance (and a place for foreign matter to gather). On my floated-barrel guns, it is obvious the barrel is floated. The old dollar bill test is not good enough. It takes more than the thickness of paper for a barrel to be effectively floated.

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