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How hard is it to remove this lock? Have read that it is "do-able" Have also heard horror storys of this lock becoming engaged from recoil. Any truth to this? Have two S&W's with the lock, and haven't had a problem...YET!
Thanks!
Virgil B.

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vbsr,

there are so many sweet old revolvers on the market that i can see very little reason to purchase new...

particularly with poorly thought out features designed to disable the weapon they are a part of....


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I dunno, mine came out of the box unlocked and I threw away the key. I never even think about it being there.

No problems.

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It seems that the "lock-ups" are most likely on the heavier kicking and/or lightweight (scandium) guns.

I don't think anyone is in a position to proclaim that the odds of a lock-induced failure are greater than say the ejector rod unscrewing or getting crap under the extractor and tieing up the gun.

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Guide to lock removal.

S&W Lock Removal

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Had a 642 lock up on me, third round out of the box. 158gr SWCs.

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Originally Posted by MontanaMan
Guide to lock removal.

S&W Lock Removal

MM


If you do not stick the paperclip all the way through the spring strut you won't need the twister. smile smile


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If you simply remove the lock, then you�re left with a hole in the left side of the gun, and an open slot next to the hammer. If you pocket carry, this is a prime opportunity for dust, dirt and pocket lint to get into the inner workings of your revolver. Revolvers are not so forgiving of such things. I think the better alternative is to just make the lock inactive, while keeping it in place. The lock tab has a tet that sticks out, which engages a slot in the hammer; this is what locks up the action. Simply disassemble the gun, file that tet down flat, and reassemble. The gun looks exactly the same, and you have no, open holes or slots to allow dirt and debris into your action, or any offending lock.

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Originally Posted by P_Weed

I dunno, mine came out of the box unlocked and I threw away the key. I never even think about it being there.

No problems.


how are you gonna unlock it when it locks itself???


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Originally Posted by KevinGibson
If you simply remove the lock, then you�re left with a hole in the left side of the gun, and an open slot next to the hammer. If you pocket carry, this is a prime opportunity for dust, dirt and pocket lint to get into the inner workings of your revolver. Revolvers are not so forgiving of such things. I think the better alternative is to just make the lock inactive, while keeping it in place. The lock tab has a tet that sticks out, which engages a slot in the hammer; this is what locks up the action. Simply disassemble the gun, file that tet down flat, and reassemble. The gun looks exactly the same, and you have no, open holes or slots to allow dirt and debris into your action, or any offending lock.
True, but if you EVER sell the gun, you'd best return it to original condition if the lock appears to be in place but is inactive. Otherwise, you're asking for a law suit, and in the current climate possibly some jail time if someone is injured or killed from acting stupidly.

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Originally Posted by KevinGibson
If you simply remove the lock, then you�re left with a hole in the left side of the gun, and an open slot next to the hammer. If you pocket carry, this is a prime opportunity for dust, dirt and pocket lint to get into the inner workings of your revolver. Revolvers are not so forgiving of such things. I think the better alternative is to just make the lock inactive, while keeping it in place. The lock tab has a tet that sticks out, which engages a slot in the hammer; this is what locks up the action. Simply disassemble the gun, file that tet down flat, and reassemble. The gun looks exactly the same, and you have no, open holes or slots to allow dirt and debris into your action, or any offending lock.


Yep, that's they best solution & is what I've done on the 2 I have.........used a surface grinder.

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there are millions of older Smith & Wessons out there for sale.


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Yep......the perfect solution. I've performed that task several times and I feel it's the best approach to the problem, whether real or imagined (the problem, that is).

I did purchase 4 of the pre-lock 642's when S&W offered them up recently. No unsightly internal lock holes in the frame, no lock whatsoever.......the good 'ole days.

More than a few incidents reported of IL issues with S&W revolvers. Whether we've personally experienced them or not, I just couldn't live with that possibility. Suppose that's why we have insurance and wear seat belts........one never knows.

I do what I can do the minimize such "surprises"............

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Thanks for the replys!
As stated, no problems....YET! Sounds like kevingibson has the best "fix" for the lock. Also, as stated, don't want to leave myself open for lawsutes. Now, I gotta decide...
Thanks for the insight!
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Our gunshop sells a tad over 150 Smiths a year and we are in contact with numereous other shops in our area. There hasn't been an incident of a lock failure ever reported among us since they were introduced. OTOH, anything or any component can fail on any machine. Is this similar to transfer bar safeties on single action revovlers? Again, no malfunctions reported. How about integral safties on rifles. We haven't had any reported issues here, either. Ruger has integral locks on their single action series and their Mark III series -- no failures reported. Bersa has integral locks as well -- no failures reported. Combined, these sales represent thousands of firearms over the past several years.

Will there be failures on the S&W integral lock. Certainly there will as simple product of numbers, but, I suspect it will be less than other revolver related failures that cause the firearm to malfunction, such as frame mounted firing pins, loose ejector rods that bind the cylinder, magazines on pistols that fail, ad nauseum. Far more critical to handgun problems is the type of owner maintenance or failures to maintain. As an example, there have been three cases in the last year where the cylinder was bound up simply because the owner neglected cleaning under the ejector plate and accumulated crud caused the problem.

We get to choose those things we consider critical and we get to align ourselves with any wave of hysteria that appeals to us solely on the basis of our predispositions or the inconsequential "chatter" on some subjects on websites and forums. And such it is, IMO, with the Smith and Wesson integral locks. A non issue, really.




Last edited by Handloader; 08/09/09.

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Maybe not but I know of one that did repeatedly. Enough for me not to bet my life on one. More importantly it is a matter of principle, S&W succumbed by making them with a lock. Until they make them without a lock, I for one will not purchase a new one.


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Originally Posted by elkhunter76
More importantly it is a matter of principle, S&W succumbed by making them with a lock. Until they make them without a lock, I for one will not purchase a new one.


Good Morning Elk Hunter. There are a number of enthusiasts that reflect this point of view. That said, does this apply across the board to manufacturers that have integral safety locks on their firearms?

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So far I have seen only one, a 642 that repeatedly locked itself when firing, sent it back to Smith and the customer now has sever hundred rounds down range with no further problems.


George Orwell was a Prophet, not a novelist. Read 1984 and then look around you!

Old cat turd!

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Originally Posted by Handloader
Originally Posted by elkhunter76
More importantly it is a matter of principle, S&W succumbed by making them with a lock. Until they make them without a lock, I for one will not purchase a new one.


Good Morning Elk Hunter. There are a number of enthusiasts that reflect this point of view. That said, does this apply across the board to manufacturers that have integral safety locks on their firearms?


It does if it requires a key.


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