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I've also noticed most of my super groups from hunting weight rifles were three shot groups. When I started shooting five shot groups (which is a much better measurement statistically), reality set in that my sporter weight rifles weren't going to be winning any benchrest matches. I understand what you are saying but it seems that you are comparing apples and oranges. I've never seen any need for a hunting rifle to group more than 3 shots. That's why target rifles have heavy barrels. They are expected to be consistent over multiple shots in a relatively short amount of time. The target rifle and hunting rifle are designed differently to accomplish different things. I would consider multiple 3 shot groups spread over several days to be a better gauge of a hunting rifle's consistency and accuracy than it's ability to shoot tight 5 shot groups. I would much rather own a 6 lb. rifle that could put 2 shots in the X ring on any given day than a 9 lb. rifle that can do the same with 5 shots.
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I've also noticed most of my super groups from hunting weight rifles were three shot groups. When I started shooting five shot groups (which is a much better measurement statistically), reality set in that my sporter weight rifles weren't going to be winning any benchrest matches. I understand what you are saying but it seems that you are comparing apples and oranges. I've never seen any need for a hunting rifle to group more than 3 shots. That's why target rifles have heavy barrels. They are expected to be consistent over multiple shots in a relatively short amount of time. The target rifle and hunting rifle are designed differently to accomplish different things. I would consider multiple 3 shot groups spread over several days to be a better gauge of a hunting rifle's consistency and accuracy than it's ability to shoot tight 5 shot groups. I would much rather own a 6 lb. rifle that could put 2 shots in the X ring on any given day than a 9 lb. rifle that can do the same with 5 shots. Spot on. Three shot groups is the way to go for a hunting rig in my opinion. Nice Rig and great accuracy Mystro.
A good principle to guide me through life: “This is all I have come to expect, standard lackluster performance. Trust nothing, believe no one and realize it will only get worse…”
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I will also add that most of my groups were done with a Clean Cold Barrel after each shot. The first CCB shot is the one I REALY care about. I managed to get some outstanding groups in better range conditions. On my first outing in horrible conditions, I did shoot a quick 3 shot string just for fun and to show the rifle wasn't heating up or changing much. This is a 3 shot group in (10-12 seconds) total. I wasn't bearing down but more of feeling the rifles natural shooting ability without concentrating on each shot. I believe given the terrible range conditions, any hunter would and should be more than happy with a quick three shot group like this from a sporster weight rifle, let alone a fly weigh rifle. IMO.
Last edited by mystro; 02/18/14.
The Lord loves humility.
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You still better turn that back ring around! The square portion of the bolt will rub the bottom of your base. The Kimber bolt has too much play for it not to make contact. The bottom of the base slightly over hangs and there isn't enough clearance to be trouble free.
Trust me, I've owned a few....and I use Talley LW's on them all.
I enjoy handguns and I really like shotguns,...but I love rifles!
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No, not even close to touching. Now you are making me take needless pics. There is about 1/8"-1/4" clearance between the Talley mounts and my bolt. I am even pushing it forward with my finger to take up any bolt play. Talley mounts are drilled symmetrically for my rifle. Thats one of their selling points that they can be turned universally to adapt for different scopes. I called them about this before I ordered mine directly from them. I was worried about not getting the scope back far enough. They recommended to turn the mounts around if needed and added they were designed that way. You cant even screw these mounts up even if you tried. The front and the rear are even drilled in different places so you cant mix that up. Perhaps the Kimber is different? The way I have them turned now keeps a nice wide grip onto the scope and they both are pointing in the same direction. I know my OCD could never live with it rubbing. You still better turn that back ring around! The square portion of the bolt will rub the bottom of your base. The Kimber bolt has too much play for it not to make contact. The bottom of the base slightly over hangs and there isn't enough clearance to be trouble free.
Trust me, I've owned a few....and I use Talley LW's on them all.
Last edited by mystro; 02/18/14.
The Lord loves humility.
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I do want to go one record in thanking everyone for your warm welcomes and respect. Its obvious I have been around awhile on other forums and its nice to have a new group of guys to share my interest with. Its also nice to share some of my past stories, and experience with to a new bunch of guys. I tend to not take stuff that serious and like to use humor alot. I have a large gun collection and tend to use it as a reference. I forget many dont know all of my past experiences with my many guns so I will try not to take such liberties without noting what I am talking about. Once again, thanks for all your input and welcomes.
The first round is on me... [u][/u]
Last edited by mystro; 02/18/14.
The Lord loves humility.
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Friend mystro. Welcome to the campfire.
I must say, you have a very nice looking rifle. While I have a safe full of nice guns that shoot great. I still find myself wanting a Kimber Montana in .308, I have a Kimber Classic in 308 that has nice looking wood stock. I'm still wanting a Montana.
Take care and again welcome to the Campfire.
Randy NRA Patriot Life Benefactor
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Nice rig. Nothing wrong with flyweight groups like that in those conditions. It should make a handy killer.
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No, not even close to touching. Now you are making me take needless pics. There is about 1/8"-1/4" clearance between the Talley mounts and my bolt. I am even pushing it forward with my finger to take up any bolt play. Talley mounts are drilled symmetrically for my rifle. Thats one of their selling points that they can be turned universally to adapt for different scopes. I called them about this before I ordered mine directly from them. I was worried about not getting the scope back far enough. They recommended to turn the mounts around if needed and added they were designed that way. You cant even screw these mounts up even if you tried. The front and the rear are even drilled in different places so you cant mix that up. Perhaps the Kimber is different? The way I have them turned now keeps a nice wide grip onto the scope and they both are pointing in the same direction. I know my OCD could never live with it rubbing. You still better turn that back ring around! The square portion of the bolt will rub the bottom of your base. The Kimber bolt has too much play for it not to make contact. The bottom of the base slightly over hangs and there isn't enough clearance to be trouble free.
Trust me, I've owned a few....and I use Talley LW's on them all. Mystro, I'm not trying to be confrontational. I'm just trying to help. I'm on my 20th Kimber and the Talley LW's are my preferred mount. In fact, they're the only thing I'll use. I pulled a scope and turned the base around for illustration. Your picture depicts the bolt at full throw. This isn't the problem, because after it cams the bolt moves slightly rearward. The problem is getting there. The picture below illustrates my reference. You can actually feel the upper portion of the bolt handle making contact with the base. After I worked the bolt about five times, I removed the base for inspection. Note the shinny aluminum. The bolt is making contact with the bottom of the base -- enough to remove the finish and get to bare aluminum. I've never owned a Kimber that didn't share this common trait. A picture is worth a thousand words. As the bolt is raised, the upper portion of the handle is slightly higher than the action. Any base that overhangs will make contact. Maybe I've been unlucky...like 0 for 20. This is the last post I'll make on the subject and I wish you the best with your rifle. Bolt handles and bases don't mix well, nor do large scopes on flyweight rifles in my opinion. I try to eliminate potential issues before they arise.
I enjoy handguns and I really like shotguns,...but I love rifles!
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No absolutely. Thank you for bringing this up. I see when moving the bolt it cams itself closer. Under further examination working it back and forth real slow, mine just misses it. I think it could go either way with different Kimbers. You are totally right with your concerns. I can see how some may slightly graze it. Total disclosure and I appreciate you bringing it up. I lucked out but I can see how some might slightly hit it. I think its easy enough fix with just nipping the back lip of the Talley mount with a file or sand paper. You would only need to remove about the thickness of a sheet of paper on the back right side only. It might even self correct since its aluminum against SS. It wont take much to correct if the problem should occur with another owner. Kinda wish there could be a sticky on this like other forums. No, not even close to touching. Now you are making me take needless pics. There is about 1/8"-1/4" clearance between the Talley mounts and my bolt. I am even pushing it forward with my finger to take up any bolt play. Talley mounts are drilled symmetrically for my rifle. Thats one of their selling points that they can be turned universally to adapt for different scopes. I called them about this before I ordered mine directly from them. I was worried about not getting the scope back far enough. They recommended to turn the mounts around if needed and added they were designed that way. You cant even screw these mounts up even if you tried. The front and the rear are even drilled in different places so you cant mix that up. Perhaps the Kimber is different? The way I have them turned now keeps a nice wide grip onto the scope and they both are pointing in the same direction. I know my OCD could never live with it rubbing. You still better turn that back ring around! The square portion of the bolt will rub the bottom of your base. The Kimber bolt has too much play for it not to make contact. The bottom of the base slightly over hangs and there isn't enough clearance to be trouble free.
Trust me, I've owned a few....and I use Talley LW's on them all. Mystro, I'm not trying to be confrontational. I'm just trying to help. I'm on my 20th Kimber and the Talley LW's are my preferred mount. In fact, they're the only thing I'll use. I pulled a scope and turned the base around for illustration. Your picture depicts the bolt at full throw. This isn't the problem, because after it cams the bolt moves slightly rearward. The problem is getting there. The picture below illustrates my reference. You can actually feel the upper portion of the bolt handle making contact with the base. After I worked the bolt about five times, I removed the base for inspection. Note the shinny aluminum. The bolt is making contact with the bottom of the base -- enough to remove the finish and get to bare aluminum. I've never owned a Kimber that didn't share this common trait. A picture is worth a thousand words. As the bolt is raised, the upper portion of the handle is slightly higher than the action. Any base that overhangs will make contact. Maybe I've been unlucky...like 0 for 20. This is the last post I'll make on the subject and I wish you the best with your rifle. Bolt handles and bases don't mix well, nor do large scopes on flyweight rifles in my opinion. I try to eliminate potential issues before they arise.
Last edited by mystro; 02/18/14.
The Lord loves humility.
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Glad to see the OP got a good one. If I didn't already have a good light .308 I might risk another Montana
"...the designer of the .270 Ingwe cartridge!..."
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Love the rifle, not crazy about the cartridge, HATE the scope! But youre the only one that has to like it...Good luck. Why do you dislike the scope and cartridge? What would be your ideal setup? FXII 6X36 7MM08
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ive got a FXII 6x36 on my 84M in 260.....good fit....
A serious student of the "Armchair Safari" always looking for Africa/Asia hunting books
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I've also noticed most of my super groups from hunting weight rifles were three shot groups. When I started shooting five shot groups (which is a much better measurement statistically), reality set in that my sporter weight rifles weren't going to be winning any benchrest matches. I understand what you are saying but it seems that you are comparing apples and oranges. I've never seen any need for a hunting rifle to group more than 3 shots. That's why target rifles have heavy barrels. They are expected to be consistent over multiple shots in a relatively short amount of time. The target rifle and hunting rifle are designed differently to accomplish different things. I would consider multiple 3 shot groups spread over several days to be a better gauge of a hunting rifle's consistency and accuracy than it's ability to shoot tight 5 shot groups. I would much rather own a 6 lb. rifle that could put 2 shots in the X ring on any given day than a 9 lb. rifle that can do the same with 5 shots. Spot on. Three shot groups is the way to go for a hunting rig in my opinion. Nice Rig and great accuracy Mystro. I have to agree with prairie_goat on this one based on the pictures mystro posted his rifle while having acceptable hunting accuracy, it isn't even close to a sub 1" shooter. Based on the two three shot groups pictured I'd put his rifle at a 1.5" +/- rifle. Of course I don't know if any scope adjustments were made between groups or not, the info wasn't there or I missed it all together. Now if no scope adjustments were made he does have similar sized groups but the POI has changed from right to left. According to his pictures as well the two different groups were shot using the same ammunition in similar conditions. Regardless, I'd still hunt with that rifle shooting like that and I'd be very successful.
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[quote=mystro]
I want to first report the conditions of the range today in Central Pa. HORRIBLE 30 degrees with 15-25 mph winds with gust over 30 mph. I was the only guy out there other than a truck that stopped briefly and left. in those crappy conditions.
Finally after all my test shooting I wanted to see how 3 quick shots would group not allowing the barrel to cool down and without any cleaning between shots. I made 3 shots as fast as I could shoot them. I am guessing 9-12 seconds for all three shots. Once again the end results were outstanding and the Kimber Montana didnt seem to care if the barrel was cold or warm. Given the windy conditions, I am more than impressed with the accuracy. [/
There were all kinds of adjustments made trying to deal with the crappy weather conditions. Doping the wind, playing with the right/left scope adjustments, and shooting speed is mainly why the two targets are different. I was just trying to roughly sight the gun in. Its one of those days where you want to shoot your new gun because you have a day off but no other sain shooter was going to the range to shoot in such miserable and cold conditions. I have had much better results in calmer range conditions since the intial first outing but since there were some skepticism by some that dont believe the gun is capable of better grouping in calm range conditions, I have agreed to take some more pics on my next visit to the range to give a more accurate representation of how it may shoot when conditions are better.
Last edited by mystro; 02/19/14.
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So lay your targets that you shot on calmer days on top of each other that you used the same ammunition on. Mark where the bullet holes correlate to one another on one target. 4-5 targets where you used same point of aim should be enough to tell you exactly what kind of MOA rifle you have. Shooting one group and stating it's a half MOA or inch rifle isn't exactly true.
As far as your testing I don't know how you do it you didn't say, but the targets from what you posted were shot in similar conditions same wind only you didn't put temp on one. Point of impact was different in both, and I assumed you used same point of aim on both. If you're as good as a shooter as you claim to be from shooting competition pistol then the speed at which you shot the second group shouldn't have moved the POI by 3/4" or more left.
Like I said as well I'd be very happy to hunt with that rifle, I could kill a lot of animals with it.
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Taylorce1,
I was adjusting the scope between targets. If a POI moved that much without adjusting the scope, there is a big problem and something is loose. Wind was very inconsistent from 15mph to gust to 30. I went back on a calm day and fine tuned my POI. It was almost impossible to do it on the first visit. Thankfully no surprises and the groups keep getting tighter each time I take the rifle out. Thats where the report of the better groups are coming from. Got about 4 boxes through it so far.
Last edited by mystro; 02/19/14.
The Lord loves humility.
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and I was a forum moderator on a few forums. Moderators generally don't know how to mount scopes correctly, measure groups correctly, or weigh rifles correctly. VX6 for a light rifle? You must not climb very big mountains.
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How would you know???? When its your rig, you do what you want. Why do you care about mine to chime in with such helpful commentary???? I will make sure your observation is given the attention it deserves. and I was a forum moderator on a few forums. Moderators generally don't know how to mount scopes correctly, measure groups correctly, or weigh rifles correctly. VX6 for a light rifle? You must not climb very big mountains.
Last edited by mystro; 02/19/14.
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