Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire Synthetic Motor Oil

I bought a new truck last year. Ram 1500 w/ the Hemi. I decide to run Amsoil in it. Time will tell. My previous truck was a Nissian Titan 2004 vintage. After break in I ran Mobile one. After 10 years it ran strong w/o any oil burning etc. I spent some time studying the oils available now and everything I could find said Amsoil or Royal Purple. You can run Amsoil a long time if you use there filter so a bit more cost up front vs. fewer oil changes. So far so good. In the past, I ran regualer oils in all my vehicles without issue. As many before have said......change often. I know the military runs oil a long time and just changes filters. I would think they would know. Just my .02$ worth. goodshot

Mobil is only real synthetic if you buy their extended performance line.

I ran my 92 Toyota v6 pickup for 386,000km on 10 k oil changes with Pennzoil syn 10w30 up to about 200,000, the Mobil1 to when I gave it away. Only oil it ever used, was what it leaked out of the valve cover. Still going strong on a farm. Was never plugged in, started at -40F no issues.
The 09 Tacoma manual says 8,000km oil changes on their semi-syn oil, 5w20. So, I put in Mobil1 5w20 at 10,000km, 10k changes since then, at 135,000km now.
The cold weather starting is what convinced me. It will turn over no sweat, rattles a hair at -40F for a few seconds, but, it goes, no questions asked.

THIS - in spades..

I can start my diesel in -30F and not have to worry about the engine getting lubricated right away.. Makes a HUGE difference in longevity, IMHO, not only on the engine, but the starter unit as well (not having to crank over a very stiff engine).. And oil analysis reports I get on every change have, so far, backed me up..

added: I use Mobil-1 in the truck..

My 97 Jimmy 4.3 with 130k on it leaks like a sieve with syn oil, as did my 95' Cherokee w/4.0 prior to that.

Changed back to dino oil, leaks went away.

I've read the reason is the molecules on syn oil are very consistent in size (small) whereas molecule sizes in dino oil vary greatly, so dino oil is not as apt to squeeze past seals.

If true, I suspect syn oil is getting into every nook and crany in the engine, faster and better, than dino. Add in superior temperature protection, on both ends, and syn oil is all I'll use.

I'll be one of the few dissenters on this subject. My dad and I was/is in the fuel and lube wholesale business for over 45 years. We have had dozens and dozens of 1/2T PU's over those years, and we run all on conventional oil, preferably Valvoline. Our conclusion, in our own fleet was that if routine maintenance is done, synthetics are not necessary. Many of these trucks ran over 200k, and one over 330k, with nary an engine problem, ever due to lubrication, on and off road (oilfield). Conventional oils are especially good nowadays.

I've had this chat several times with my mechanic. We're both of the mind that it wouldn't make much difference in our area, if regular change intervals were employed.

Were I to live further North, however, I'd probably go with the synthetic for better protection in cold starts.

FC

Guys will argue motor oil like we argue calibers on here but the one thing that I am fairly certain of is the performance of the synthetic differential products. We have actually burned up quick-change rear ends a couple of times on race cars and the synthetic rear end oil that remained was in far better shape than the metal. The spacer/bushing that stands the top gear off was left off once allowing the gear to walk back and forth on the shaft and chew itself up. Burnt everything all to hell, but could have strained the metal out of the syn. 90w and used it again.

I've known people that had that issue with GM. Chrysler and Ford made products...each time they had a simple solution...

if the valve covers start leaking after 130,000 miles... try replacing the gasket.. that seemed to work pretty good...

on another note...these high mileage oils, actually work pretty good...case in point... I have a mower that the engine is starting to burn oil... to the tune of it holds 20 ounces of oil... run thru a tank of gas and you have to add another 4 to 5 ounces of 30 wt to it to bring it back up...

so my thought was since its going, just run drain oil from the cars thru it...had a jug of MobilOne 5W20 High Mileage, that I drained out of one of my wife's friends car with 12,500 miles on it.....so I just drained out the 30 wt and put that in there...

now it takes 5 tanks of fuel thru the mower engine, before I have to add 3 ounces to bring it back up to full level...

I thought that worked out pretty well...plus having 108 ounces of oil to add to the mower.. I'm pretty stocked up...plus it isn't smoking when it runs either..

The additive packages are basically the same, but synthetics have several advantages over conventional oil, Since it is a synthesized manufactured oil (from conventional oil stock), it's molecular structure is more uniform and flows easier at low temperature and reduces wear. It is also more tolerant of high temperature (so it is less likely to oxidize). All-in-all, it is a better oil product - whether you need it or not, that's your call.

I switched to Mobil One at 200,000 mile on my Toyota Tundra. Now at 220,000. It doesn't make sense, but I'd swear it is shifting a little smoother...

Having run dino oil for years in my Chevy truck, then switching to Mobil 1, we can sure tell a distinct difference in how easily it starts in the winter. I'll stay with synthetic for my climate.

I have a 2013 tundra.....I just made the last payment on yesterday. I am switching to Mobil One. Maybe it will shift a little smoother.

Mobil 1 is cheaper for me to run in my pickup, a 2002 Tundra 4.7L V8, with 10,000 mile oil change intervals. I switched to synthetic at 30,000 miles. It is still pretty clean looking after about a year, and doesn't burn any significant amount of oil now at 135,000.

My 2004 Suburban 5.3L has burned a quart every 1500 miles since about 100,000. Needless to say I run conventional now in that engine.

I have been using Mobil One for years.

If you have to deal with bi-annual Smog checks like I do here in California, synthetic oil is your friend. 'Smog Check' before last I squeaked by only .01 on hydrocarbons.
The smog tech suggested I switch to syn before next check, so I did & passed with .15 cushion on the last one.
And I was still running the same old plugs from previous check.

All synthetic all the time here. Change filter and add a quart every 5k, change everything at 10 - 12K. Probably overkill. For gearboxes and trans also.

I run RP in the Ram 3500 Cummns, changing oil at 10,000, filter at 5. Same price breakdown as dino with half the hassle, and better cold weather operation.

Can't hurt.

Until the temperature drops, then the far superior characteristics of synthetic become apparent.

Synthetic will still flow at 40 Below. Dino turns into a congealed mass and is little better even with a heat pad on the oil pan.

I learned the hard way. Nowadays I run Castrol Syntec or Titanium or whatever the hell it's called these days. I noticed the absence of the drag on my starter when doing cold starts.

Bingo! 'Cept I go 15K between oil changes and filter but use a Napa Platinum filter.