OK, regarding the heartbreak of unsightly and embarrassing "Lever Droop", Here's a quick look at the mods that can bring a worn, stretched link back into adjustment. Oversized pins should be fitted, if required,...but are not completely mandatory.

This repair is particularly applicable to relines that are not going to see a "Set Back", which makes for a real PITA requiring retaining screw relocation and deepening what may be a perfectly good extractor cut. Cutting a 44 or 44 1/2 small bore extractor cut PROPERLY requires a milling vice in a lathe, and a fairly substantial angle plate / fixture holding it. This cut CANNOT be done (properly) in a knee mill.

Some pics of the repair.

Remember,....We want to move the pin holes APART

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With the link "spread", and VERY lightly tacked, assemble and test for that desirable mild "Snap" as the lever travels it's last 1/4 inch to hitting the tang.

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Once you've got things about where you want em' weld the thing off, and after final fitting and polishing (not pictured) ....don't forget the Kasinit.

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Here's a SLICK way to get a fine trigger pull on a hammer that's had it's sear notch cut to deep by Bubba and Co. That's a piece of O-1 drill rod in condition A,...JB welded into a hole cut with a carbide tool. Sneak up on your reduction and polishing this "Stand Off", and enjoy life, when through. Note that all the re-welding, filing, squaring and basic fitment has been finished, and the part Case hardened / Kasinit immersed,...prior to gluing in that pin. Final adjustment is confined to the trigger sear nose.

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-- “Sometimes I wonder whether the world is being run by smart people who are putting us on or by imbeciles who really mean it.”- Mark Twain