Sisal buffing wheels are the most aggressive, followed by muslin and hard felt. Stack up several 1/2" wide wheels on a mandrel to make a buffing surface 1 1/2 or 2 inches wide. You will need separate wheels for each grit of polishing compound, because no matter how carefully you clean a buffing wheel, a few particles of compound will remain to leave scratches as you move to finer grits of polish. I have wheels with 180, 220, 320, and 400 grit "greaseless" compound, and a hard felt wheel with 1,000 grit grease-based compound for final polishing if I'm going for a mirror finish. If I'm doing a boiling water blue, I stop at a 400 grit finish. The Dicropan doesn't like to work well with mirror polished parts. For polishing supplies check out some of the websites that sell knife making blanks and equipment- - - -they're a little less expensive than Brownell's. Jantz Supply is a good source for polishing equipment and supplies. One of these days I might step up to a Baldor commercial buffer, but at age 73, it's not likely. The greaseless polishing compound I use is sold under the brand name "Polish-O-Ray" and it's available on Ebay. I built my own polishing buffer from a 1/3 HP electric motor and a set of pillow blocks with a drive belt. I have a 3-step pulley on the motor to change the speed of the polishing wheels. I've been using it for nearly 30 years with no problems whatsoever, and it's polished hundreds of parts in that time.
Jerry


Ignorance can be fixed. Stupid is forever!