The actual bluing can be done in the kitchen- nothing more objectionable than boiling water, no evil smells, etc. The real grime and labor comes with the polishing. Don't for heaven's sake have at it with buffing wheels- you will smear/dull the lettering, destroy the sharp edges, and give the steel a rippled look, unless you are a pro and even then I wouldn't allow it done to any of my guns. Work through the grits with hard/semi-hard backers, and stop when you complete the 400-grit stage. Proceed with rust bluing. Follow maker's directions. Construct a sweat box out of scrap plywood big enough to suspend a barreled action inside it, place a hot plate in the bottom on lowest heat setting with a pan of distilled water on it- the goal is to create a sort of damp environment not a hot fuggy one. Card the rust with oil-free 0000 steel wool after boiling/steaming in distilled water. Repeat as necessary to achieve a uniform color- usually (for me) anywhere from four to six applications. Degreasing before bluing is important, but no great voodoo is required- for years I have merely washed with acetone and kept a box of fresh nitrile gloves handy for handling the polished/degreased steel parts, and have enjoyed complete success.
