Ok guys, be gentle ha, 7mm rem mag reloading. I have read so many damn threads and watch plenty videos on reloading belting cases my head hurts. I have about 50 pieces of brass (Hornady and Remington) but I can purchase virgin brass if needed. I also have 2 different 7mags. Tikka T3 Lite and a Browning A-bolt2, but after reading and watching all the videos, I should have kept the brass separate so that it was formed to each chamber independently. I didn’t know that at the time, so oh well. Have to work with what I have.
So correct me if I’m wrong. Well just say I’m using the Tikka.
1) Shoot factory ammo in Tikka. It should stretch and form to the Tikka chamber.
2) It may be allowed to chamber but may require trimming.
3) It may also take 2-3 firings before I notice resistance when closing the bolt. Now the Brass will need to be worked.
4) At this time I should bump the neck back .002” and neck size only. That way you minimize working the brass too much, but it also allows you to now headspace off the shoulder rather than the belt. This step is where opinions differ. Some say FL resize, while others will back the die off about 1 turn, color or “soot” the neck shoulder area. In small increments, neck size the die until it gets close to the shoulder then bump the shoulder back .002”. FL resizing and trimming creates more bulge at the belt and case head separation issues.
5) I’ve seen RCBS dies, Redding and Lee Collet dies that folks have used. Anyone better than the other? I’m using 308 RCBS dies in my Hornady Lock N Load press. Haven’t bought the dies yet so open to all options.
6) Larry Willis collet die? Some say it’s a must have, others say it a very good tool but not needed and have hardly used it.
So as you can see, I could be on the right track and then again I could be all over the place. So any help you guys can provide would sure be appreciated.
