Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles Point of Impact Shifting

Old habits die hard. Is it about time for another troll rodeo?

I'd agree with relieving the bedding under the recoil lug. If there is no clearance, when you tighten down the action screws, all the pressure could be applied right to the bottom of the lug.


Clean the barrel. Do some research on cleaning copper fouling. Lots of products out there aren't worth buying. Use a light in the bore.

I can't find "fhuqk" anywhere in my Funk and Wagnalls. Hint....I'm laughing too. Or is it "glaughking?" Wallywhitetail, I apologize for making this reply on your previous post.

If the bedding was done properly with even contact around the entire front of the receiver, then I wouldn't worry about relieving the bottom of the recoil lug.

I would certainly start with the easy stuff like checking to make sure fasteners aren't loose, but beyond that I would invest in a SWFA SS 10x to use as a backup scope, as well as another set of mounts. I've seen jumping POI numerous times due to a scope that wasn't holding zero properly, and swapping a known-good scope onto the rifle revealed the problem immediately. Of course I've also seen bad bedding, loose screws, etc, cause a shifting POI, but a bad scope or mount system is by far the most common cause, IME.

[bleep] this rifle and go buy a Tikka!

There is an easy way to check the bedding. Loosen the front and rear action screws. Now torque the front screw, then tighten the rear screw. The rear screw should go from loose to tight in about 1/4 turn. In other words, it should turn freely then suddenly stop. If it takes a turn or more to come up tight after you begin feeling some turning resistance, your bedding is not right. Now reverse the process and torque the rear screw first and see how the front screw tightens. It should go from loose to tight in 1/4 turn.
If the above checks out and you haven't messed up the recoil lug mortise and your barrel is free floated you can pretty much eliminate bedding as the issue and start looking at optics/mounts.

Could it be the barrel requires a bit of pressure near the end of the fore arm. Some rifles shoot better with a bit of pressure. It would be easy to check with a bit of paper or thin cardboard like a matchbook at the front swivel mount area.

Trybone,

No need to quantify yet again,that besides being a Brokedick CLUELESS Fhuqk,that you just also "happen" to be a Thieving Piece Of Fhuqking Schit...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?



How come all of the GOOD pics in "your" album,were shot by me? Hint. LAUGHING!

In fairness,I've never even seen a Winchester and this is all "new" to me. Hint.

LAUGHING!



Bless your heart,for doing your best,with what incredibly fhuqking little you "have" to "work" with.

Hint.

LAUGHING!...............







You CLUELESS Drooling Fhuqktards are a hoot! Hint.

Wow +P++!

Laughing!..................

Do yourself a favor. Before doing anything else, shoot it again but allow the barrel to cool down between shots. If it shoots well then the problem is uneven stresses in the barrel material which when the barrel gets hot it will throw the later shot. Loose screws usually will give you an open group with no set pattern. If you are getting the first two shots good and the third opens up it is probably due to heat in the barrel. Run a couple of test to prove it out. If you are still getting your two good and the third opening up putting some upward pressure at the forearm by inserting pieces of a business card between the barrel stock at the forearm help to correct it. The M70 Featherweight has always been very touchy.

This right here is what I have been doing for years with my M77 Ruger. It has a pencil thin barrel.. Don’t get the barrel hot at all....

Tell us about how your sexual orientation affects your rifle paint jobs, you gay [bleep]

Don't feed the trolls. Since I put Little Dick on ignore this forum has become much more enjoyable.

Blacktailer, my friend, you might want to put me on ignore for a while too. I'm going to unmercifully harass that [bleep]. Every time he posts, I'm going to ridicule him. I will not stop until he leaves.

Montana 223, bedded tight with no relief around the lug, SS 6X in steel Burris Sig Z-Rings and all fasteners torqued with Loc-tite...I would say the Montana has a pencil barrel but heat didn't seem to be a problem.

Without reading all the other replies, I would say possibly.

I would start out with the simple and cheap. Dismount your scope, pull the bases off of the action, and clean everything really thoroughly, then reinstall the scope.

Change ammo. Monolithic bullets like Barnes can be fussy. I've owned over 200 rifles in my life and worked with them extensively. I have owned ONE so far that did best accuracy work with Barnes bullets. It is not a good track record. I would try something with a flat base like plain ol' Remington 180 grain CoreLokt and Federal's 168 grain match load .. not that you will hunt with them in the end, but to validate the gun's potential.

You describe yourself as a lifelong shooter so I assume you have other scopes. My next suggestion, if the first doesn't fix it, is to install a different scope on that rifle. Even new scopes can be "bad". A scope with something loose inside can shift between two "fixed" points creating double-grouping. (I have a "spare" scope which is well proven to install on rifles as a sanity check when things are behaving in inexplicable ways.)

Then look at the stock. I save that for last-ish because it's more complicated and potentially more expensive. Having a barrel almost free floated enough will produce the groups your pictures show. When free floating a barrel, I want it FREE FLOATED, not almost, but by a solid margin. Take a stack of 10 $1 bills and see if the stack will slide between barrel and stock ... and how far, and whether it is balanced on both sides or indicates the gap is closer on one side than on the other. Stocks flex more than we realize during recoil. It is ok to have contact under thick section of the barrel at the chamber, but unless I have full-length bedded a barrel, I don't want any contact from the slope ahead of the chamber clear to the front of the stock. If you have contact, or even a questionable tight spot, take a dowel and sandpaper and remove material. When I get done, my stocks look like s-h-i-t but the guns shoot ... or else I sell them and let someone else fight them. Life is short. The other alternative is to buy an aftermarket stock to hunt / shoot with and keep the original in case you ever sell the gun. I'd suggest McMillan. You get what you pay for.

Good luck...

Tom

UPDATE:

Since getting all the advice, here are the steps I've taken:

1. Removed all copper from barrel and clean thoroughly using Wipe Out and Patch Out products.

2. Bought some Federal Gold Medal Sierra Match King ammo to test against the copper Barnes, Black Hills Gold and others I've been working with thus far.

3. Shot it; saw no improvements. The Match Kings showed the same pattern (one or two shots here, then one or two shots there about an inch and a half or more apart and in an unpredictable order).

4. Put it on the bench, removed scope and mounts. Found nothing obviously loose. Tested scope on a hand-mirror using the method described earlier in this thread (align the two reticals, whack it against my hand, check for misalignment, repeat). Found no movement. Did manage to confirm that Vortex scope knobs are possibly the least satisfying dial to click of all time, though.

5. Here is where it gets interesting. Loosened the action screws one by one and checked for movement in the gap between the tip of the foregrip and the stock. Found that while the front action screw produced no movement whatsoever, cranking down the rear action screw actually produced a slightly wider gap between those points. So I'm getting some clamping action that is putting torque on the stock.

The question now is what exactly went wrong during the bedding job, and how do I repair this? I realize that the most obvious step would be to grind out all of the existing epoxy and start over from scratch, but I'm curious as to whether or not it may actually be repairable short of an entire re-bed. Maybe I could add a small amount of epoxy on top of what's already there instead of grinding everything away entirely?

One thing I wonder about is that my bedding guide advised relieving the rear action screw by enlarging the hole slightly to ensure it doesn't push on that screw laterally at all, but perhaps since that is the opposite of pillar bedding, it's allowed the screw to apply too much clamping pressure on the wood of the stock?. Maybe adding pillars is the answer?

Any advice is welcome. What would you do?

Thanks,

Blake

Bump

WallyWhitetail - Thanks for the update. Very interesting stuff, and I am following to see what the final solution is.

The only advice I can offer is to put "bigstick" on ignore.

Can you put a plastic shim under the under the rear of the action so that there is no "torque" when rear
screw is tightened down. That should tell you if a re-bed job is needed before you rip out the old.

When bolt is closed, does the bolt handle touch the action at all????

Is you magazine loose enough fit to rattle when screws are tightened down????

I was not able to get the performance I wanted from two Featherweights no matter what, so they moved on.

I sure hope you get it sorted out. It sounds like a cool rifle.