Boil the horn buttplate (after sanding off the Tru-Oil) and the pressed horn will pop right up. Allow it to dry for at least a couple weeks and refinish.
Steel wool is a no-no on good finish. It leaves tiny shards which will eventually freckle and broadcast their presence...
This was the first time I’d tried this with a Browning horn butt plate, I did boil the horn but maybe about two hours wasn’t enough. I didn’t boil it to remove the script but to flatten the curve out of it. The horn was removed and immediately clamped on a flat piece of metal. If you look at the picture you can see the clamp marks that pressed into the hot horn. Afterwords when trying to sand the script out, I found that it went all the way through and it would not come out. I did a search and read on a shotgun forum that others had tried the exact same thing and had the same results. On this particular piece of horn when it was heated and the script pressed into it under pressure, it looked like the density or the lower portion below the raised script was completely changed.
There isn’t any Tru-oil on the horn, I polished it after sanding and that’s its natural shine.
I had also read that after using steel wool any small fragments could rust and you could later see them through the finish. I haven’t seen it in any stocks I’ve personally done and some I have sitting in front of me I did in the late 1970’s. I keep waiting for Tru-oil to change there directions but after thirty plus years it still says to use 00 steel wool, I’ve always used 0000 myself 🤣.