I would like to see you paddle out at Waimea Bay. Or race a guy for priority. For that matter even be able to stay in position at Haleiwa.
Have you ever taken a pounding from an overhead or double overhead wave? Ever been slammed into a coral reef? I haven't even begun to talk about the actual act of surfing yet.
Further more every sport is judged one way or another.
But those that don't know, just don't know!
I would be willing to bet you couldn't even get up on a short board on a two foot wave, Backside measurement so roughly 4 to 5 foot face.
