First thing is check the Carb # & date code to see if it's original to the truck (or engine) if it is the calibration will be correct unless someones messed with it.. Then check for excessively worn throttle shaft bores by adjusting the idle speed to factory spec (or your liking)... If you cant get it to idle slow enough with the idle speed screw backed all the way out (throttle blades completely closed) it means too much air is leaking past the shaft bores and they will have to be rebushed... Next check for leaking jet wells by running the engine, Then let it set (without messing with it) overnight... Then (without starting it) get your eyeballs overtop the carb and look down into the primary bores (carefully open the choke plate if necessary)... Now open the throttle several times... You should see fuel squirting out of the accelerator pump discharge holes... If no fuel squirts (or some fuel but mostly air) you have leaking jet wells... You can verify which ones are leaking with soapwater and compressed air after carb disassembly... The fix is to drill or mill the secondary jet well caps out and replace with screw in plugs(with epoxy on the threads)... The primary jet wells (if leaking) can often be carefully restaked... Just putting epoxy over the jet wells never works for long as the heat and fuel loosens it... Your best source for quality rebuild kits, parts & info is Cliffs Q-Jets (Cliff Ruggles) in Ohio... He wrote the best book available on Q- Jets (and iv'e read em all)... I do my own carbs (with Cliffs technical assistance)... But you should expect to pay someone competent about $300 for a basic stock rebuild or as much as $5-600 for a rebushed & jetwelled, recolored & replated, performance tuned works Job... And it's worth every penny... They work fantastic!... Ya'll can keep your Fool injection...
First thing is check the Carb # & date code to see if it's original to the truck (or engine) if it is the calibration will be correct unless someones messed with it.. Then check for excessively worn throttle shaft bores by adjusting the idle speed to factory spec (or your liking)... If you cant get it to idle slow enough with the idle speed screw backed all the way out (throttle blades completely closed) it means too much air is leaking past the shaft bores and they will have to be rebushed... Next check for leaking jet wells by running the engine, Then let it set (without messing with it) overnight... Then (without starting it) get your eyeballs overtop the carb and look down into the primary bores (carefully open the choke plate if necessary)... Now open the throttle several times... You should see fuel squirting out of the accelerator pump discharge holes... If no fuel squirts (or some fuel but mostly air) you have leaking jet wells... You can verify which ones are leaking with soapwater and compressed air after carb disassembly... The fix is to drill or mill the secondary jet well caps out and replace with screw in plugs(with epoxy on the threads)... The primary jet wells (if leaking) can often be carefully restaked... Just putting epoxy over the jet wells never works for long as the heat and fuel loosens it... Your best source for quality rebuild kits, parts & info is Cliffs Q-Jets (Cliff Ruggles) in Ohio... He wrote the best book available on Q- Jets (and iv'e read em all)... I do my own carbs (with Cliffs technical assistance)... But you should expect to pay someone competent about $300 for a basic stock rebuild or as much as $5-600 for a rebushed & jetwelled, recolored & replated, performance tuned works Job... And it's worth every penny... They work fantastic!... Ya'll can keep your Fool injection...
Heres your carb guy
Need your address I will send you a few
