My understanding was one full length beds the barrel and floats the action.
By design, you are right. I believe this was Ruger's intention with this type of action. Mine is similar to how DF did his, except I did not bed the rear of the receiver. It does not need it really. My way of thinking is it only has one action screw, so bed under that area. The proof is obviously on the target downrange, as I always say. That is really the only way you know what really works. Again, not that my way is the only way, but what you see with a lot of 10-22's is "unexplained" fliers. What you don't get with my rifle shown above are those weird unexplained fliers. Ammo choice has a lot to do with that as well, but for the most part if you use a good ammo and it's properly glass bedded, you reduce those weird fliers. A properly bedded rifle with a good barrel is going to produce some very good accuracy. Another thing I'd like to hit on is the stress a heavy barrel puts on that aluminum receiver. This is another reason I like some support under the barrel out closer to the forend tip. This can all be tested and confirmed with business cards placed inbetween the stock and barrel. When you find the shim thickness that works the best, make note of that, use those as shims and epoxy bed that area of the stock. When done, you can pull those shims out, as the barrel will now sit on the epoxy bedding pad. Greatly reducing the stress on the aluminum receiver. It's also now a 2 point bedding system, as I previously mentioned in an earlier post. It's all mechanical and no rifle likes pressure on its receiver. That usually has a negative affect on accuracy.
