It’s a great trick and I’ve done it a lot. It does load the carriage and compound differently than what they were designed for and you don’t want to take big cuts with this setup. They’ll buck.
Anyone taking big cuts for threading is screwed, blued and tattooed before they start the machine up.
800 rpm’s, eh? I’ll have to try kicking the speed up. I was threading today at 155 RPM, which is the actual, not nominal, lowest speed I can turn on the Feeler.
Big cuts….. I used to have a job that involved threading large stainless shafts in quantity… in a production scenario you most certainly do take big cuts when threading. Big being relative of course. Bigger than you otherwise would, how about. That’s how I know you can make the carriage buck when it’s loaded up wrong when threading away from the shoulder.
Find the limits, then back down a bit and then make some $$$.
The parts I’m making now start out as 2-1/4” solid round T303 bar and end up almost like thin-wall pipe. Long story. A LOT of material gets first drilled out to 3/4” then bored the rest of the way. I use a solid carbide boring bar- which if a guy hasn’t used those, do, they are a game changer- and was taking ~ .350” off ID diameter at a pass. The machine hardly knew it. The biggest issue is minimizing the number of burns from the hot chips.
Maritool is a good place for solids carbide bars. He does a good job weeding out the wheat from the chaff. Won’t sell you junk, Chinese or not.
