Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Rimfires 10/22 to build or to buy?

I know some of you get pizzed when I say you can build a good 10/22 on the cheap, and still end up with a damn fine shooting rifle. I did, and have done this multiple times. You start out by finding a good quality used rifle, if you don't already have one. Then you start in with testing the factory configuration to see how well it shoots. Keeping in mind, that if you want to replace a part, or upgrade a part, that is totally up to you. However, in this thread I am going to be talking about building one on the "cheap", and doing some of the work yourself.

One of the first things I'll do, to start in with the accurizing process is headspacing the bolt. You can read about this on some sites like rimfire central, so I won't go into too much detail. The idea here is to minimize, or reduce the amount of fliers your rifle will produce, but adjusting the headspacing on the face of the bolt (bolt face). Generally most factory Ruger 10/22 rifles come with a sloppy headspacing. This is so you can shoot multiple brands of ammo reliably. However, I've seen some factory bolts measure about .050", which is too sloppy for my taste. I believe the minimum SAAMI spec is .043". Because of this minimum spec, I'll shoot for around .044" when I resurface the bolt face on my 10/22's. The best way to check this is with a depth mic.


However, if you don't have one of those, you can use the tail end of your caliper. The important thing here is to make sure you keep your bolt face as square to the barrel as possible. I always check the mating surfaces with dykem blue. I probably won't show a lot of pictures of some of these processes. I will also show a new rifle that I just bought, and you be the judge, as to which way you may want to go if it were you wanting a good 10/22.

So on to the next thing that I'll generally buy for my 10/22 rifle. A good stock. I like and use the Magpul X-22 stock. They are around $125.00 on ebay right now. A great stock for the price tag. They have a lot of adjustment for length of pull, and you can also change the cheek piece, if you need to. These stocks are very lightweight, and are cool because you can use a factory barrel, or switch the barrel channel inserts around and you can use a .920" heavy barrel. A useful feature for sure.

Next on the list is working over the factory trigger. Keeping in mind, I'm trying to do this on a budget. I really like the Volquartsen trigger parts, such as the target hammer and trigger kit. Those will generally set you back about $60.00, and you get a great trigger, if you want to spend the time doing it.

Talking about spending time doing something, the auto bolt release mod is a great one. Who likes messing with the factory cluster fu ck of a bolt release on these rifles??? Not me. Anyway, to do it right and quick you will need to remove some material on this piece:

It's located inside your trigger housing. It is very easy to get to. Remove 2 pins and its out. This is the tool I like to use:

That carbide bit makes short work of this process:

I know, in another thread I said it only takes 3 seconds: I lied. It took 10 seconds, after I put it in the vise and started grinding away at the material. It's simple, if you have the tools.

Now, if you found that your factory barrel is not shooting dime sized groups, or living up to your accuracy expectations, buy an aftermarket barrel. The choice is up to you. However, I like and use the Kidd barrels because they are guaranteed to shoot 1/2" at 50 yards with match grade ammo. These barrels are not a spin of the roulette wheel either. They shoot damn well. The other day, I was on ebay and saw a nice stainless 20" heavy barrel for $257.00. Back a few years ago, when I built my current rifle, I believe the 20" stainless fluted model was about that price.

Now, something that needs to be brought up is selling your original parts, to recoup some of the money you spent on the barrel and stock. Sell your original barrel and original stock. Sometimes you'll be amazed at how much someone is willing to pay for those items, if they are in good condition. It could possibly knock a couple hundred off the price of those parts you just bought. Something to keep in mind here.

If you are following along, this is what the rifle I described to you, looks like:


This is how a good Kidd barrel shoots:


I have something like $473.00 into this rifle.

In the next post, I'll share with you what I bought yesterday. It's a very good example of what is out there right now, if you get out there and look!!! I've been seeing some good deals on 10/22's lately. Some very good deals. Prices ranging from $175.00 and up. Any of you play with some of the 10/22 clones? You can even buy 80% receivers now too.