Filson.
Having owned a number of wool items from Woolrich, Johnson Woolen Mills, Codet, Filson and a couple of others, I'd say the Filson wool is the best investment if you are looking to get 20-30 years of hard use.
Most of the other seem too loose in the weave and a lot of "wool blend". None of the newer stuff from the other manufacturers stand a chance of lasting as long as the Filson wool.
The Tin Cloth packer coat with the wool liner is a good bet, and can be had in Shelter Cloth, which is a lighter weight of waxed/oiled canvas.
Granted Shelter Cloth isn't as durable as Tin Cloth, it's still tougher than Carhartts.
As for the smell, they should be hung outside (under cover of course
) to allow the volatile solvents to off-gas.
There is only one Filson coat I didn't like, the Double Mackinaw.
Too heavy, and bulky with double cape/sleeves and not enough in the body.
I would go with the Cape Coat and some of the newer fleece and synthetic under layers.
My favorite Filson item? The Mackinaw Wool Vest. By a mile.
http://www.filson.com/men/vests/mackinaw-wool-vest-alaska-fit.html#200My experiences over 50+ years of wearing wool outdoors.
Of course, YMMV
Mark
