It is spring and the wild hairs are growing out my ass again... Seriously, looking to get a small dual sport motorcycle just to tour the country side and know there are a lot of dirt bikers here so looking for experience and experienced opinions but will accept snide remarks, whatever.
Main requirements are: - Total noob at any kind of off road riding so it has to be easy to ride, emphasis on easy. - Getting older so don't need or want to go fast or long distances off road and don't want to go on long camping trips, just putt putt at 10-25 mph on logging roads and trails for a few hours. I quit being immortal 15 years ago so not gonna do anything crazy. - I'm only 5' 9" so a lower seat height is better.
Want to emphasize fun, easy off road riding but you have to get there first which means at least some time on 60-65 mph highways, maybe 10-15 miles at a time tops. Most paved roads would be 45-55 mph.
Have narrowed the choices down to a Yamaha TW200 or XT250 and kind of torn between the two.
Rode a TW200 today and liked it. Low seat at 31.1", single cylinder 4 stroke with very low gearing so good low end torque and fairly light at 278 lbs., it has those fat tires which apparently make it very easy to ride. Suspension travel is not great at 6.3 and 5.9" front/rear. Biggest drawback is that it is really underpowered for the highway. Reviews say 75 mph top end but you're screaming it at that speed, most folks say 60 mph tops.
Yamaha XT250 - need to ride this tomorrow, only sat on one today. A bit higher seat and heavier at 31.9" and 291 pounds. Another single 4 stroke with low gearing so good low end torque. More sophisticated with EFI, disc brakes front and back and bit more highway capable plus it has longer suspension with 8.9/7.1" travel front/rear. Gearing still keeps it from being a highway motorcycle but a few more horses would let it go 60-65 for 10-15 miles without trouble.
TW200 - carburetor instead of EFI, drum rear brake, old school tech, lightest and supposedly easiest to ride. Big cult following since it's been around since 1987. Biggest drawback is pavement speed.
XT250 - just a bit "more" of everything but still rated a good beginner or old guy takin' it easy bike. Highway performance still isn't great but incrementally better.
So - thoughts on the overall criteria and/or these bikes in particular?
TW200 with the fat tires - some reviews call it a cross between a motorcycle and ATV.
I just sold my DRZ 350 to a buddy. Looking at finding tw 200 and get a geared down rear sprocket if I find one. For back country exploring and hunting.
One thing about the 200 is that carburetor lets you push start it. Neither of them have a kick start which probably isn't that big of a deal these days but I like the idea of not having to rely 100% on an electric starter where you might be way off the beaten path.
Really torn between the two - I like the 200 overall since it seems more laid back and suited for what I need, but that highway performance might be a deal breaker.
Have you looked at Honda? CRF250l is small, the xr650l is what I would buy, but it may be too big for what you want to do. The crf450l probably ticks all the boxes except it is kind of pricey. I would really like to come across an old XR650r in street legal trim...
If you don't need new, look at a TTR250 Yamaha. 30# lighter than a tw200. I sold one last fall, good bike. I have a crf230f honda now. 30#+ lighter than a tw200. Lower seat than the TTR250. A few mods, jetting, exhaust, forks and rear shock. Great for a late 60 year old on single track (me).
I can dog the shi it out of my buddies (in my age group), in single track, on their 450's.
Easy to plate in Idaho, although I run around town with an restricted plate and no lights. I had another crf230f that I plated w/light,etc. I also plated the above TTR250, w/lights, etc.
Jim, as an old dirt biker, 30 years ago, I think you are looking for a Honda XR 200R. But to get one you will have to hit the used market. Check ATV trader.
In the current new market, the closest I see is the Honda CRF250F at $5500. Fuel injection, I would have loved back in the day. Electric start, I would have hated back in my riding days. I tossed the battery, first thing on my XL 350. But today, I would probably appreciate the electric start. I always liked the low end power and torque of the 350 cc bikes. They pulled like a tractor from 800 RPM and did not care if you kept them in the "power band". But the new bikes with computer controls and fuel injection are a whole different animal. You are going to have to ride a couple and see what you like.
Fat tire bikes are kind of a specialty item. They have been around since the early 80s. They are primarily useful for slow and technical terrain.
Are you looking for lights and turn signals? That will make a big difference in your selection. The Idaho restricted use license plate will allow you to legally ride on any BLM or USFS road in Idaho which is open to travel. It also allows travel on city streets, county roads, and state hiways within a short distance of a city limits.
For instance you could legally ride your bike from Emmett out to Little Gem Cycle Park via Hiway 21. But you could not ride it on over to Boise. You could ride to New Plymouth by staying on the county roads.
But do not try any of this in Oregon. I have several friends at work who have been ticketed for riding their ATVs around Unity, or on the gravel road on the west side of Brownlee Reservoir.
My buddy who trades bikes, ATVs, and jetskis occasionally really likes to deal with Carl's Cycle Sales. They handle all the major brands. He will drive right past Canyon Honda to get to Carl's.
I’ve got an XT225, the predecessor to the XT250, and two of my friends have 2019 xt250s. They’re great little bikes. I’m on the big side for the XT and it is known for a starter bike or a “girls bike.” It has been a great bike to learn on and capable in the woods. There are a few days I long for more power as it will go 75 mph but it doesn’t sound happy about it and I wouldn’t want to try to cruise at much over 55. I just take the backroads and avoid the highway.
Personally if there is much road travel planned I would prefer the XT over the TW. If I were planning more highway time I might look for more cc’s
If you just have to have a new bike, get the 250. I would look for a used early 1980’s XT 250, the bike is still a mini shock, but the seat will be lower than that new bike. Drop 2 teeth on the front sprocket and you will be surprised at what you can do with that bike.
With your use of the word touring and highway, I'd say that puts you on the XT. The TW even with a sprocket change will complain at any highway speed. If it were short stints on back country highways, the TW would be up to the task.
Howdy Jim, Let me add a vote for the TW200. I rode mine to work (5 miles of paved road) when the weather was nice and up and down some nasty, washed-out forest roads on weekends. Some of the locals here in SE AZ see the TW as the successor to the old "Trials" bikes, but it feels to me that it's not quite as good as they were at climbing over boulders and logs. Took it up in the Grahams for Coues two or three times. Getting there with a pack and a rifle was a hassle. Previous posters are correct--the TW is screaming like a banshee at 65 mph. Recall getting 70-75 mpg, if that matters. Low maintenance and dependable. Best, Mike
By trails,what do you really mean? I share your stature and low is a hard find. Not a thing wrong with that XT250 I'd think, other than no 6th gear. An Idaho company Seat Concepts can likely help you with a cushy seat if ever needed.
I have a tw 200 and xt225. I think the xt is more user friendly at speed.
I've had both of these years ago and would choose the XT225 (now XT250). The TW is OK but I think you'll outgrow it pretty quickly. See if you can go back and ride the TW after testing the XT.
That's a good price for a motorcycle with 333 miles. Not sure what the postage would be to ship it from South Dakota.
Thanks for the replies and for the Idaho guys maybe I should be more specific. What I'm looking for is 95% off road and only riding on whatever paved highway is necessary to get to the off road areas, which means the bike has to be street legal. Even though the paved road driving is minimal it would necessarily involve some 65 mph roads and I have to take that into account.
25 years ago I lived along Highway 95 in Fruitland and had a light and nimble Yamaha 250 ATV, 2WD only but it was all that was needed to tool around the National forest roads and old overgrown logging roads enjoying the views. But I also had a Ford F150 to carry it to the forests.
Now I live in SE Boise and drive a 17 year old Honda CRV. The desert south and SE of Boise is accessible via roads with a speed limit of 50-55, top end but doable for the TW200. But that's flat and frankly not all that pretty. The really pretty country is up Idaho 21 and that's a 60 mph road for 15 miles or more with stretches of 55 mph straight road as you near Idaho City. Make that 65 and 60 at least or expect to have a long line of irritated drivers with large pick up trucks breathing down your neck.
Going back to the dealership this afternoon to ride the XT250. That little TW200 is the sentimental favorite since it seems perfectly suited to the kind of slow and easy riding I'd expect and matches my beginner off road riding level but the XT250 is rated as a good beginner bike as well and could handle those short stretches of high speed and that might be the deciding factor.
Wish this was like deciding between two guns where I could afford to just buy both...
I have a tw 200 and xt225. I think the xt is more user friendly at speed.
I've had both of these years ago and would choose the XT225 (now XT250). The TW is OK but I think you'll outgrow it pretty quickly. See if you can go back and ride the TW after testing the XT.
Road dirt bikes in Idaho for 33 years. DON"T get the TW, had one for a short time. The suspension doesn't work for Idaho trails, you'll get bounced off the trail, they have a bouncy ride. Was my least favorite of all my bikes.
No such thing as a do it all trail bike so have a serious talk with yourself as to what exactly you are thinking to do and then choose. Going by yourself into Idaho's back country on a motorcycle comes with risks. I've lost my bike off the trail where it took serious skill and know how to get it back up onto the trail. A 4 wheeler is a better choice for newbies. Trail bikes get trailered to the trailhead so don't be thinking a dual purpose for trails. My view of dual purpose is they go on both paved and dirt roads. Go light and small for trails.
I tried the dual purpose adventure bike TWICE! They are far too heavy for actual trail riding. I find it more fun driving my pickup on dirt roads than riding a bike.
I went through this a few years back. I like the TWs but I wouldn’t want to take one on a highway. The XTs are okay and have a better suspension that the TW but are not real powerful. Personally, I messed around on a DR200 for about a year before I decided on what I wanted (it was fun but small and underpowered for me). I ended up buying a DRZ400. There are faster and lighter bikes but it is a good compromise. I think you should look at it. It is carburated so easy to bump start it if necessary. It has good torque. It’s very reliable too.
.............................What I'm looking for is 95% off road and only riding on whatever paved highway is necessary to get to the off road areas, which means the bike has to be street legal. .....................
For off road, single track, plate a dirt bike.............. Forest Service roads, about anything will work.
If you lived closer, I have different bikes you could try.............
Beta 300 Xtrainer for the win..........................
I went through this a few years back. I like the TWs but I wouldn’t want to take one on a highway. The XTs are okay and have a better suspension that the TW but are not real powerful. Personally, I messed around on a DR200 for about a year before I decided on what I wanted (it was fun but small and underpowered for me). I ended up buying a DRZ400. There are faster and lighter bikes but it is a good compromise. I think you should look at it. It is carburated so easy to bump start it if necessary. It has good torque. It’s very reliable too.
How tall are you to recommend the DRZ? LOL it's 36.8" seat height! One of the tallest dual sports eva.... (-:
I have a tw 200 and xt225. I think the xt is more user friendly at speed.
I've had both of these years ago and would choose the XT225 (now XT250). The TW is OK but I think you'll outgrow it pretty quickly. See if you can go back and ride the TW after testing the XT.
What does 'outgrow the bike mean' ?
Outgrow the bike's capabilities. The TW is a fine little bike for what it is, but the fat rear tire tends to 'float' on hard-pack and you run out of suspension fairly quickly from what I remember.
TW200 ... Going to get one myself . People around here can't understand what riding slow , quiet , economically is about . It's a bike for exploring or hunting/camping/fishing off of . Local acquaintances tell me to ''get a 650 at least'' i ask why? - because that 200 will be too slow! Too slow for what ? quietly riding - scouting for a place to hunt- predator call/camp/fish/sight-see ? I tell them i have a honda cr500r/yamaha R1/Kaw. kdx 250 2cycle for fast going - got 'fast' covered . Most folks seem to think everybody is going to go out racing up and down dirtroads/trails - hauling butt flying around turns , splashing through creeks , chewing the bottom out of deep mud holes etc. . I don't plan on ever doing anyof that on a tw200 - ever .
Hold everything. Having had about a dozen of these things, what has worked the best for me is an aluminum flat bed trailer and a street legal CT110 Honda with lower gearing and full knobby tires. First off a single cylinder is not nearly as smooth as a twin and it will be screaming out on the highway. Highways are not fun with a light weight dirt bike with dirt tires. Then what are you doing going 55 mph through the woods? Faster bikes go faster and crashes happen. Been there with a Husqvarna CR360 two stroke. The Honda XR350R or 250 Bultaco Matador had the best power band for the woods, but they weren't street legal and too heavy. Choose a four stroke that you can reach the ground from with good suspension. I'm just replacing walking these days communing with nature with a smaller trail bike, not out to see how fast I can get down a dirt road. Highways are for cars, trucks and the bigger bikes and not so much the bikes either. Did that too and never again.
Go on a scouting trip and define the speeds that you will need to maintain on the paved roads to avoid becoming a smear.. Factor that in your decision.
Main requirements are: - Total noob at any kind of off road riding so it has to be easy to ride, emphasis on easy. - Getting older so don't need or want to go fast or long distances off road and don't want to go on long camping trips, just putt putt at---> ''''''' 10-25 mph on logging roads and trails for a few hours''''''-----. I quit being immortal 15 years ago so not gonna do anything crazy. - I'm only 5' 9" so a lower seat height is better. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
No such thing as 'running out of suspension' cruising logging roads ,, 'getting bounced off of the trail?' = adjust your rebound setting - slower .
The quiet reliable 80MPG , low seat height TW200 with a rear rack made right in your neck of the woods would be a great bike . I'm 6' 3'' and wouldn't choose anything over the tw from what you say you want.need .
Get a Beta 300 x-trainer and skip the rest of those bikes...trust me on this. I have ridden them all and the some...for a living at one point as a Trail Ranger for IDPR fwtw.
Note to the peanut gallery. "Logging roads" is a highly variable term... Forest singletrack or high desert two-tracks? Come on Jim, buy something already!
Was out working on the range this morning and as I was driving back I followed a small pickup with one of those motorcycle hitch carriers and some kind of dirt bike on it. Seemed like a good setup.
That seems like it might be the best way of all to go. Combine a light, easy riding motorcycle like the TW200 with a single bike hitch carrier. That takes the highway driving completely out of the picture since I could drive my CRV anywhere, even a couple of hours away to get to a trail head and go from there. A smaller bike and the hitch still wouldn't exceed a 350 tongue weight which is what my little Honda is rated for.
It also opens the door to full blown off road bikes but those all tend to be pretty high except the smallest models made for kids.
Thanks again for all the replies so far, lots to think about. Half the fun in buying something new is doing the research like this.
Jim, if riding there is like riding here deer happen, (I had one jump over my front fender) other hot shoe ATV and bikers happen coming the other way, logs at an angle to the trail or hidden in the grass throw you off the bike, bear hunters in pickups who think they own the road take up the whole road, slippery leaves or gravel gets exciting. You don't want to be going like that idiot in the video, but they are out there and don't stay on their side of the trail. A kick starter is a real comfort to have when the battery fails like when you drop the bike and it floods. You just want to explore maybe scouting for deer or fishing spots, not kill the environment or yourself in the process. I figure that if I did something stupid out on the trails it was all on me. I had too many close calls on street bikes when someone in a car did something stupid for me to ever want any part of riding a motorcycle in traffic again.
Those little bikes aren't just for kids either. My old Honda SL125 went 55mph or so, but I like to gear them down for better lower end. I haven't gone shopping lately, but what I didn't like was how tall the newer dirt bikes were getting. Sure good suspension matters, but you don't need 9" of travel if you go slower and can't reach the ground. Lots of guys here have those older Honda Trail 90's or CT110's with that big rack on the back, automatic clutch four speed and dual speed high and low range transmission. I was elk hunting out in Colorado once and a guy had a whole cow elk hanging on the meat pole. I asked him how he got that thing out whole and he told me to go look behind his camper. There sat a Honda Trail 90. Nuff said.
Put lights, horn, and dot tires on your 2 stroke YZ250 and have at it.
In 2015, 2016 it was no longer legal to do so in Washington. Had to have been DOT when titled. They followed California's lead on this. BTDT But indeed they have redirected. Cool. Thanks for the info.
OH CHIT, THAT WAS OREGON CIRCA 2012,2013. SORRY DUDES.
Jim, seriously consider a Honda XR200 from the used market, if you are going to pack it to the trails. They made a model with twin rear shocks which was very inexpensive, low seat height, geared for inexperienced riders to ride tough trails. But it did not have the suspension to hit big bumps fast. We had a couple of them in the extended family.
That Yamy 250 might be a close second. But with a 30 inch inseam, I have always been sensitive to seat height. I can not tell you how many time I tipped my bike over on a steep hillside. Then had to lift it back up the hill to get it on its wheels.
Yes, I spent many years riding a Honda XL on paved roads and dirt. It was really not suited for either. It was helpless in the dirt with the enduro tires. So I set it up with some good Metzler MX tires. Then it went well in the dirt, but was very uncontrollable on pavement. I slid it out from under myself several times on pavement. There is nothing quite like sliding down the road on your back, and watching the sparks fly off of your bike as it slides alongside of you. Thank God for Bell motocross helmets and insulated coveralls.
With something in the 350 cc to 400 cc class you could comfortably ride from Boise to Id City, then cross the USFS and tour Placerville, to come out in Horseshoe Bend, and comfortably ride back to Boise on Hiway 55. We used to do that kind of stuff all the time on our XLs.
But I do not think I would want to compete with traffic on 16, 21, or 55 with anything less than a 350. Our hiways have some steep grades, and the cars or pickups, and even the semis think they should climb the hills at 65 MPH. They don't like an under powered vehicle in their way.
I tried to occasionally use the 350 XL to commute. That meant I 84 exit 9 to exit 3, then back up 95 to Nyssa Or. The buffeting from the wind as a semi passes is an incredible thing. One could ride about 100 feet behind the semi, roll the throttle off about 1/3 and still keep up. But the turbulence coming off the truck tossed me and the bike all over the place. I quickly realized that a little enduro has no place on the freeway, legal or not.
Bought a new Yamaha 175 Enduro in 1970, had it for about 20 years. In my mid 20s when I bought it and could abide the punishment of running it in some nasty terrain. Picked it over the 250 back then, because it was quite a bit lighter. Figured it'd be easier to crawl out from under a lighter bike, than a heavier one? Never had to.
Longest paved road ride I ever put on it, was about a hundred mile round trip. They weren't built for that. IIRC,top speed was around 65 MPH at best? But it could get there mighty dam quick. Little fugger would go just about anywhere, except deep mud. It was fun, then I got older.
Bought my wife one to when she wanted to learn how to ride. Actually a cool little bike. Suspension needs help, badly, but otherwise a fun little dual sport to fugg around on.
Didn't ride it today although I did go look at it. Did about 4 hours of shovel work this morning and was a bit wore out plus it was windy and cloudy and chilly this afternoon. I did sit on it as well as a TT-R230 which is a full on trail bike. Small differences in seat heights are really noticeable, 31.9" for the XT250 and 34.3" for the TT-R230. Of course the true trail bikes are several pounds lighter without the highway stuff, and while you can put a usable rack on the back they are covered in plastic bodywork with a big plastic bumper.
The Honda dealership closed too early today but will be open Monday so I want to look at the CRF230F and the CRF250F & L. Those are all taller motorcycles with seat heights in the 34.4-34.8" range. Both F models are the trail bikes while the CRF250L is the dual purpose.
Also keeping my mind open and looking at the Honda Recon ATV and looking around at others. It's only a 229 cc 2WD but that's basically what my old Yamaha was and I had a blast with that. It would go anywhere I wasn't scared to go and being so light and small it was easy to ride. These smaller ATV's are a lot more capable than people give them credit for, one night that little Yamaha carried a large man, his teen age daugher and half an elk a few miles back down a rutted, washed out old forest road with some fairly step portions. You just hit the gas and keep up the momentum and it would climb most anything that wasn't total loose gravel - or snow, it wouldn't go over snow for anything. The Honda MSRP is exactly the same as the TW200 which is nive. Would have to get a trailer which is a whole 'nuther expense and a PITA so this is just a thought, but considering all options.
Mostly narrowing in on the TW200 or XT250, one of these definitely seems like the best way to go for me,
One thing I noticed yesterday and today, I don't know which is worse, car or motorcycle salesman. Talked to a fellow in his late 20's or early 30's yesterday and today and you could see he really didn't want to waste a minute of his time on an old geezer like me. He made some excuse and walked off today and another guy came over, a fellow in his 50's, and the bullsh*t just spewed from his mouth from the word go. The second guy directly contradicted the first one at least twice.
Didn't ride it today although I did go look at it. Did about 4 hours of shovel work this morning and was a bit wore out plus it was windy and cloudy and chilly this afternoon. I did sit on it as well as a TT-R230 which is a full on trail bike. Small differences in seat heights are really noticeable, 31.9" for the XT250 and 34.3" for the TT-R230. Of course the true trail bikes are several pounds lighter without the highway stuff, and while you can put a usable rack on the back they are covered in plastic bodywork with a big plastic bumper.
The Honda dealership closed too early today but will be open Monday so I want to look at the CRF230F and the CRF250F & L. Those are all taller motorcycles with seat heights in the 34.4-34.8" range. Both F models are the trail bikes while the CRF250L is the dual purpose.
Also keeping my mind open and looking at the Honda Recon ATV and looking around at others. It's only a 229 cc 2WD but that's basically what my old Yamaha was and I had a blast with that. It would go anywhere I wasn't scared to go and being so light and small it was easy to ride. These smaller ATV's are a lot more capable than people give them credit for, one night that little Yamaha carried a large man, his teen age daugher and half an elk back a few miles back down a rutted with some fairly step portions. You just hit the gas and keep up the momentum and it would climb most anything that wasn't total loose gravel - or snow, it wouldn't go over snow for anything. The Honda MSRP is exactly the same as the TW200 which is nive. Would have to get a trailer which is a whole 'nuther expense and a PITA so this is just a thought, but considering all options.
Mostly narrowing in on the TW200 or XT250, one of these definitely seems like the best way to go for me,
One thing I noticed yesterday and today, I don't know which is worse, car or motorcycle salesman. Talked to a fellow in his late 20's or early 30's yesterday and today and you could see he really didn't want to waste a minute of his time on an old geezer like me. He made some excuse and walked off today and another guy came over, a fellow in his 50's, and the bullsh*t just spewed from his mouth from the word go. The second guy directly contradicted the first one at least twice.
If you are going ATV I wouldn't go less than a 350. My son had a 250 recon and although it would run it was just a little under powered and small and I'm not a big guy. That's just my opinion and worth what you paid for it though.
To be honest, As much fun as a trail bike looks, I would lean toward an ATV and trailer. Trailers are pretty cheap and handy for lots of other things, and (as you know) an ATV can do jobs that a bike can’t. Plus they are quite a bit safer.
When you are looking at these different bikes, lay them on their side then pick them up. Gives a better idea of what's light and what's not. You are going to have to pick it up sooner or later anyway.
The fat tires on the TW200 wash out easier on gravel than the skinny tires. At least that was my experience.
No way can a Idahoan just have 1 off road rig. Trail bike, ATV, 4x4 pickup, snowmachine, bare minimum. Multiply examples of each is preferable..............
When the road is too muddy to get to the trail head I use this..........
Jim: Be advised if you buy a dirt bike not licensed for the street you cannot ride on Forest Service roads. You are limited to designated off highway motorcycle trails. If you want the most capable off road motorcycle take a look at Rokon. I just sold 2 of them and bought a 4 wheeler due to impending geezerhood.
I've been reading up on Idaho regulations but the only thing I can find is this from https://parksandrecreation.idaho.gov/activities/atv-motorbike:
Any person without a valid driver's license who wishes to operate an OHV on US Forest Service roads must take an IDPR-approved OHV safety course and carry their completion certificate while operating their OHV.
It just says you need a valid driver's license or take a safety course but I'm not finding anything about the vehicle being licensed for street use. Do you have a source or website with that? I'm not trying to argue but am trying to make sure I get things right. This place has been considerably Californicated in the last 25 years and even back then every Fish cop, Park Ranger or part time tour guide out there was just itching to bust you for some minor infraction.
Jim: Be advised if you buy a dirt bike not licensed for the street you cannot ride on Forest Service roads. You are limited to designated off highway motorcycle trails. If you want the most capable off road motorcycle take a look at Rokon. I just sold 2 of them and bought a 4 wheeler due to impending geezerhood.
This is absolutely not true in Idaho. See our restricted use license plates as I mentioned earlier.
Quote
7Laws, Rules & RequirementsREQUIREMENTS FOR OHV OPERATIONTRAILSThese are the requirements for motorbikes, ATVs, UTVs and Specialty Off-highway vehicles operating off-highway on a designated trail, open riding area or motocross track.• A valid IDPR OHV certificate of number sticker. IC 67-7122• A helmet under age 18. IC 49-666 • A muffler and Forest Service approved spark arrestor. Your muffler must be at or below 96dB at the half-meter test, SAE J1287. IC 67-7125STATE & FEDERAL ROADSThis includes Idaho Department of Lands, Bureau of Land Management, U. S. Forest Service, Idaho Department of Parks and Recreation, Idaho Department of Fish and Game, and privately owned roads open to OHV use. Contact the land owner or manager for information on roads open to OHV use. • OHV Education Certificate for unlicensed operators. IC 49-302(11)a U.S. Forest Service Roads only.• Valid driver’s license (except under the age of 16 when supervised by a licensed adult operator). IC 49-301 or IC 49-302 “supervised” means the supervising licensed adult must be in a position, on another OHV to provide close support, assistance or direction, or if on the ground, within three hundred (300) feet of the unlicensed operator.• Liability insurance or alternative insurance. IC 49-1223 or IC 49-1232• Valid IDPR OHV certificate of number sticker IC 67-7122• A helmet under age 18. IC 49-666• Muffler and U.S. Forest Service approved spark arrestor. Your muffler must be at or below 96dB at the half-meter test, SAE J1287. IC 67-712
Additionally, with the restricted use license plate it is perfectly legal to ride an off road vehicle on most city and county paved roads, as well as some portions of state hiways.
Quote
8Laws, Rules & RequirementsCITY & COUNTY ROADSThe following requirements must be met on city, county, and highway district roads. Certain roads may be closed by local jurisdiction. Check with local jurisdiction for information on roads open to OHV use.• Valid restricted vehicle license plate. IC 49-402(4)• Valid IDPR OHV certificate of number sticker affixed to restricted vehicle license plate. IC 67-7122• Valid driver’s license. IC 49-301• Liability insurance or alternative insurance. IC 49-1223 or IC 49-1232• A helmet under age 18. IC 49-666• Muffler and U.S. Forest Service approved spark arrestor. Your muffler must be at or below 96dB at the half-meter test. SAE J1287. IC 67-7125 For safe operation on roads the following equipment is recommended:• Brake light.• Headlight and taillight after dark/poor visibility.• Horn audible at 200 feet.• Mirror showing roadway 200 feet behind the OHV
Like I said before, I appreciate everybody's comments and opinions since they make me challenge my own.
Did a lot of serious cogitatin' this weekend and honest appraisal of where I am in life and am really thinking an ATV would be the better way to go. When it comes to street motorcycles folks say "it's not if you go down but when". With dirt bikes, even smaller ones, it's not "if or when, but how many times you go down". At 67 I stay in decent enough shape but definitely don't bend or heal like I used to, that's a fact of life. I know how to ride a street bike pretty well but dirt bikes take some new skills and I'm not sure my bones could stand too much learning these days.
You can get hurt on a utility ATV but you have to work a lot harder at it. The plan is still to have something just to putt putt along the dirt roads and old logging trails and not go anywhere I can't just hit reverse and back out of. The manufacturers don't make hardly any small, basic machines anymore except the Honda Recon which is a 229 cc, air cooled single with 2WD only. It's light and small with a good low center of gravity. Doesn't have near the features of bigger and more sophisticated machines but basic and simple is good. It has a carburetor which I can work on and a pull start backup if the electric start craps out. The only other machine I've found in this class is the Kawasaki Brute Force 300 (an ominous name) but that's liquid cooled which is just extra stuff I don't need.
I know folks recommend something more powerful but I remember my old Yamaha 250 and how perfect it was for what I did back then. If I was 25 years younger I might worry about out growing something small but if I can just keep getting out into the mountains for the next 15 years or more that would be fine by me.
Gonna go look at a few different models and ride a couple this week to get a feel for the seating and all but seems like it's a choice between the Honda and the Kawasaki and at this point that Honda is in the lead.
Sweet lookin ride, congrats. I think I would have a 21 inch front rim laced up to it and beefier rear tire. Looks like your are in for a lot of fun.
Yeah i'm sure that would improve the steering and overall handling of the bike . Those stupid japs in white coats have no idea how to build a well engineered motorcycle . Cut the muffler off too - it'll get much better fuel economy and double the horsepower and torque plus sound SO badass - seen it a hunnerd times .
Sweet lookin ride, congrats. I think I would have a 21 inch front rim laced up to it and beefier rear tire. Looks like your are in for a lot of fun.
Yeah i'm sure that would improve the steering and overall handling of the bike . Those stupid japs in white coats have no idea how to build a well engineered motorcycle . Cut the muffler off too - it'll get much better fuel economy and double the horsepower and torque plus sound SO badass - seen it a hunnerd times .
But, but, but, what if I don't wanit to sound badazzed? I might want to putter up on a spring bear with it....
The larger rim on the front end could interest me if there is real benefit to it.
I just wanted a light weight bike and found I wasn't able to buy a new one due to what I suppose is common sales tactics with bike dealers that I found to be a bit scamish.
How can a dealer advertise a new bike for sale at $3900.00 and then expect a customer to be cool with a out the door price of $5200.00? It happened again and again so I just went for sorta new used.....
But again, about that 21 inch rim, improved steering, handling? Really?
Sweet lookin ride, congrats. I think I would have a 21 inch front rim laced up to it and beefier rear tire. Looks like your are in for a lot of fun.
Yeah i'm sure that would improve the steering and overall handling of the bike . Those stupid japs in white coats have no idea how to build a well engineered motorcycle . Cut the muffler off too - it'll get much better fuel economy and double the horsepower and torque plus sound SO badass - seen it a hunnerd times .
But, but, but, what if I don't wanit to sound badazzed? I might want to putter up on a spring bear with it....
The larger rim on the front end could interest me if there is real benefit to it.
I just wanted a light weight bike and found I wasn't able to buy a new one due to what I suppose is common sales tactics with bike dealers that I found to be a bit scamish.
How can a dealer advertise a new bike for sale at $3900.00 and then expect a customer to be cool with a out the door price of $5200.00? It happened again and again so I just went for sorta new used.....
But again, about that 21 inch rim, improved steering, handling? Really?
How can a dealer advertise a new bike for sale at $3900.00 and then expect a customer to be cool with a out the door price of $5200.00? It happened again and again so I just went for sorta new used.....
That's the way the Yamaha dealer in Macon works.
I just can't do it, I shop online and expect to pay taxes and such over and above but a $1500.00 manufacture delivery fee is BS. If they advertised the real price and I had time to get my head wrapped around the numbers while shopping I'd have probably bough new. Being I am a rookie new bike buyer I wasn't ready for the bump...
Their scam tactic cost them the sale for me...but I am a tight wad, I'd rather someone else buys new and then sacrifice to me when they wanna get rid of whatever it is they are selling....
I just bought a $65K motor home last week with 19K miles on it for $15K . The dude was trying to buy a second home as a summer place and still had the RV financed and his bank wouldn't cut him the loan unless he paid off the RV first. He was at risk of loosing the deal on the house and sold me the RV for pay-off.
I'm writing that deal off as a pandemic related, the house he was buying was a deal due to the owners being squeezed and needing to sell their vacation home quickly, the deal flowed down to me...
Cash in hand makes schit happen if your timing and luck is running right.
The bike wasn't as much of a steal as just a fair deal in my eyes.....a steal would'a been $1200.00 for some quick bail money or sumtin.....
Pretty much every bike shop operates that way. If you get them on the phone you have to be real clear what "out the door" means. Otherwise you may end up killing somebody when you show up to buy it. LOL
I had one shop, 40 miles from my home that refused to give me a price over the phone. They demanded I make an appearance. I told them that wasn't happening, I just wanted to put it on my charge card and have them deliver it.
They let me walk, couldn't believe it...
I gained a little respect for those that at least had the balls to tell me over the phone what it was going to cost over and above their advertised price....not so smart a sales tactic in my book but it must work for them, like you say they all do it.
Sweet lookin ride, congrats. I think I would have a 21 inch front rim laced up to it and beefier rear tire. Looks like your are in for a lot of fun.
Yeah i'm sure that would improve the steering and overall handling of the bike . Those stupid japs in white coats have no idea how to build a well engineered motorcycle . Cut the muffler off too - it'll get much better fuel economy and double the horsepower and torque plus sound SO badass - seen it a hunnerd times .
But, but, but, what if I don't wanit to sound badazzed? I might want to putter up on a spring bear with it....
The larger rim on the front end could interest me if there is real benefit to it.
I just wanted a light weight bike and found I wasn't able to buy a new one due to what I suppose is common sales tactics with bike dealers that I found to be a bit scamish.
How can a dealer advertise a new bike for sale at $3900.00 and then expect a customer to be cool with a out the door price of $5200.00? It happened again and again so I just went for sorta new used.....
But again, about that 21 inch rim, improved steering, handling? Really?
That is unfortunately VERY common with motorcycle dealers. Halls Motorsports here in the southeast is horrible with that. I won't do business with them. I have found that a good after tax, fees etc. deal is if you can walk away at MSRP. It's a fair deal for dealer and customer. For a non-current bike, you can beat that out the door price.
But again, about that 21 inch rim, improved steering, handling? Really?
I thought that bike came with a 21" front.
Were the '17's different?
Either way I wouldn't fugk with a damn thing. It's going to do everything you want to do on it.
I'll have to measure it when it gets here, the guy is delivering it. He's a pilot and flying today through Wednesday and bring it to me on Thursday morning...
I'll run it as is being it's all new. The RV not so much, I have a 11 o'clock this morning for new rubber. The tires on it came on it and the Florida sun did it's thing on two of them so I am replacing all 6. That beast will be heading to Montana for the summer along with the bike as soon as I get tired of the heat here.... I'm not going to wait and see how those old tires hold up on the way to Montana...
I'll have to measure it when it gets here, the guy is delivering it. He's a pilot and flying today through Wednesday and bring it to me on Thursday morning...
I'll run it as is being it's all new. The RV not so much, I have a 11 o'clock this morning for new rubber. The tires on it came on it and the Florida sun did it's thing on two of them so I am replacing all 6. That beast will be heading to Montana for the summer along with the bike as soon as I get tired of the heat here.... I'm not going to wait and see how those old tires hold up on the way to Montana...
Hahaha.
I don't blame you. Sounds fun. What kind of RV did you buy exactly? Sounds big pimpin'.
I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure your 200 takes 21" rubber. (this sounds dirty)
When shopping for a bike/car/truck the first thing I do is to visit the dealership and ask to see a written quote with all fees. Only after this are the negotiations started. The surprises are always in the "fees" involved or finding out you don't qualify for all the rebates being offered. Pre owned bikes can often be picked up for a song if your careful and patient.
I didn't get the RV I wanted. I got a 28ft Class C. V8 Chevy Vortec powered on a Work-Horse one ton chassis.
I got sucked in by the 19K miles.
Everything on it checks out, drives like new, like new inside, outside is a little dirty from sitting but that is due to change.
It's far more of a boat than what I planed on but figure if it don't suit me I can sell it and get my money back or even turn a buck with it being I got into it right...
When shopping for a bike/car/truck the first thing I do is to visit the dealership and ask to see a written quote with all fees. Only after this are the negotiations started. The surprises are always in the "fees" involved or finding out you don't qualify for all the rebates being offered. Pre owned bikes can often be picked up for a song if your careful and patient.
I missed out on a 2016 250 Honda dual sport with 1700 miles on it for about the same money by diddlin' around.
I'd of rather had it but I didn't jump when I needed to.
If you're looking for a Honda always check Southern Honda. Prices advertised are OTD (unless you live in TN, then add sales tax). Even if they aren't logistically feasible, I'd still use their prices to set the bar. Some killer deals on 2019 letfovers.
If looking for a more options, there are companies that offer kits to make true off road trail bikes street legal(in some states). One that comes to mind is Baja Designs. The kits are offered for several popular brands of 4 strokes. Tail light & head light assemblies with legal but small & out of the way turn signals, & complete wiring harness.
I my state, if you have a bill of sale or some sort of paper work showing ownership & vin, & the kit installed, a sheriffs inspection, you can get a title w/plate. And of course, a tax bill every year. When I was a younger more aggressive rider this was the route I wanted to go as true off roads are usually more capable & quite a bit lighter. Inexpensive front sprocket changes can get your road MPH pretty much where you need it.
I've had both a TW and TTR250. The TTR was a much more capable off-roader but not great on the highway with the knobby tires. Based on what your riding needs are I think the TW fits the bill. They are rock solid and easy to ride. I could get mine to hit 60 top speed and it was buzzing with vibration. Not fun for long highway runs. What a blast on dirt roads though. Add a rear rack and you're ready to go. I found mine used with around 2k miles for $2300.
I didn't get the RV I wanted. I got a 28ft Class C. V8 Chevy Vortec powered on a Work-Horse one ton chassis.
I got sucked in by the 19K miles.
Everything on it checks out, drives like new, like new inside, outside is a little dirty from sitting but that is due to change.
It's far more of a boat than what I planed on but figure if it don't suit me I can sell it and get my money back or even turn a buck with it being I got into it right...
Sweet lookin ride, congrats. I think I would have a 21 inch front rim laced up to it and beefier rear tire. Looks like your are in for a lot of fun.
Yeah i'm sure that would improve the steering and overall handling of the bike . Those stupid japs in white coats have no idea how to build a well engineered motorcycle . Cut the muffler off too - it'll get much better fuel economy and double the horsepower and torque plus sound SO badass - seen it a hunnerd times .
But, but, but, what if I don't wanit to sound badazzed? I might want to putter up on a spring bear with it....
The larger rim on the front end could interest me if there is real benefit to it.
I just wanted a light weight bike and found I wasn't able to buy a new one due to what I suppose is common sales tactics with bike dealers that I found to be a bit scamish.
How can a dealer advertise a new bike for sale at $3900.00 and then expect a customer to be cool with a out the door price of $5200.00? It happened again and again so I just went for sorta new used.....
But again, about that 21 inch rim, improved steering, handling? Really?
I assumed the bike had a smaller front tire like a TW [18''] and thdrbstr was saying a 21'' would be better . I'd never put a 21'' wheel/tire on a bike designed for 18'' wheel/tire . The added radius would cause many problems -tire hitting fender , steering geometry out of wack , Fork rake possibly weird . Bigger wheel/tire would give slower steering on a bike designed for 18'' tire . Adjust the bike to your weight , set static sag . Put a zip tie around the shock rod and front fork legs so that it will be moved to show how much the suspension moved . Hit the biggest bumps/jumps you're going to hit with your type riding adjust until you're using all of the suspension travel . This will give you the smoothest ride and best handling .
Rider tip that i tell novice to expert riders ; if/when a mishap happens - PULL THE CLUTCH IN - . When things aren't going as planned and you're trying to not lose control of the bike - a rider will accidentally open the throttle when you're getting bounced around . When you're on the verge of going down the last thing you need is the bike getting twisted to full throttle - PULL THE CLUTCH IN - then it doesn't matter if the engine gets revved to 15,000RPM .
What I need is a time machine to go back and find some of these older motorcycles when they were new, then hide them in someone's barn for 40 years.
Found this on the local Craigslist. 1982 CT110 "excellent condition, new tires" is all that's in the description. This is really more in line with what I was looking for when I saw that Honda was coming out with pretty much this same thing in a 125 Hunter Cub, but those are likely to have an MSRP of $4000+. These have held their value well but the guy wants $2700 which seems a bit steep for a 38 year old machine. It would also need a heat guard for the first portion of the exhaust pipe.
That is sure a clean one Jim. They are still sold in Australia and called "Posties" I guess because the mail guys use them. I only paid a grand for mine and have standing offers when I ever want to sell it. Back in the late 70's Honda made an orange 125 with a big rack like that, but they only made it a year or two. Too long ago to remember if it had the two speed transmission or the automatic clutch. I just remember the orange color and the big rack. I've never seen the need for the handle bars to be able to be turned 90 degrees on those 110's, but that is there if you need it maybe to fit closer to the back of the vehicle on a bumper carrier. Street legal means that I don't need to worry about being nabbed on the forest roads like I could have should have been with my Yamaha, Bultaco, Husqvarna or CR Honda.
I did a quick check of NADA and Kelly blue book and his price is a good $1000 high for NADA and that's for truly "Excellent" condition. Just looking at the headlight discoloration and lack of heat guard they would rate it "Very Good", definitely not excellent. VG shape they would call it more like $1300. Kelly BB shows a "typical list price" of $2300 but they don't say anything about condition.
That big blue land yacht in the picture tells me the seller might be an old fart like me. Might have to call the guy up and see what the story is.
I had one of those. Friend broke thru the ice and sank it to the bottom of a pond, couldn't get it started, sat in a barn for a couple of years and he gave it to me. I had it running before the weekend was out.
That XL line from Honda was very popular. I keep an eye out for one in the sub $1000 range but they are pretty rare nowadays
I had one of those. Friend broke thru the ice and sank it to the bottom of a pond, couldn't get it started, sat in a barn for a couple of years and he gave it to me. I had it running before the weekend was out.
That XL line from Honda was very popular. I keep an eye out for one in the sub $1000 range but they are pretty rare nowadays
What I need is a time machine to go back and find some of these older motorcycles when they were new, then hide them in someone's barn for 40 years.
Found this on the local Craigslist. 1982 CT110 "excellent condition, new tires" is all that's in the description. This is really more in line with what I was looking for when I saw that Honda was coming out with pretty much this same thing in a 125 Hunter Cub, but those are likely to have an MSRP of $4000+. These have held their value well but the guy wants $2700 which seems a bit steep for a 38 year old machine. It would also need a heat guard for the first portion of the exhaust pipe.
278 original miles (supposedly) and still has the auxiliary black gas tank that hangs off the left side of the cargo rack. He even has a bumper hitch carrier he'd be willing to deal on so all I'd need to do is get the receiver portion welded to my car. Seller is an 80 year old man, is the second owner and "works" on these things, whatever that means, but he seems like a good fellow on the phone. He has a couple of the original Trail 90's as well, that's what the one in the background is.
I think this might be it. He's in Arizona today but will be back in Boise Thursday, so I'm going to call him after dinner then and arrange a time to look at it.
Fwiw, the car in the picture is a 1985 Ford Crown Victoria with a 5.0 L (302) engine, also for sale if anyone wants one.
What I need is a time machine to go back and find some of these older motorcycles when they were new, then hide them in someone's barn for 40 years.
Found this on the local Craigslist. 1982 CT110 "excellent condition, new tires" is all that's in the description. This is really more in line with what I was looking for when I saw that Honda was coming out with pretty much this same thing in a 125 Hunter Cub, but those are likely to have an MSRP of $4000+. These have held their value well but the guy wants $2700 which seems a bit steep for a 38 year old machine. It would also need a heat guard for the first portion of the exhaust pipe.
The CT-110's have become legendary and deservedly so.
Yeah, I've watched a lot of youtube videos on them and they are indeed legendary for being bullet proof, and they are just my "speed", pun intended. Have to admit I'm gettin' kind of horned up over this one, hope I won't seem too eager when/if it comes time to talk turkey.
I don't use low range on mine all that often because I dropped the counter sprocket by one tooth and that works fine for trail riding. Suspect that I'll put trial universal less aggressive tires on it the next time than the front and back knobbies that are on it now. The knobbies are better off road, but there is some blacktop between trails where I go. I've been all over the map on trail bikes from a 50cc Yamaha Mini Enduro to an oversize Triumph TR6C 650 with high pipes and a god-awful fast Husqvarna with a quarter turn throttle that kept trying to leave without me. The Honda CT110 has worked the best of any of them for how I use them. You might think the same thing and not have to buy a dozen of them to find that out.
The Honda CT line has sold more motor vehicles than any other machine in history - by a wide margin . There are many thousands of them of every continent .
I tried to put up 5 or 6 different videos on the new Hunter Cub in my post above -''if the hills weren't so steep'' none would work .
The range of the new 125 Cub is 225 miles on 5.3 liters of gasoline .
Yep, the old/new Trail 90 is getting expensive. I have been offered $1500 for one i paid $100 for. Not for sale. Had a Rickman with a Triumph TR6C engine if anyone remembers those. My pair of '69 Trail 90's get about 100MPG. one has the Powrell 110 kit.
It's true - met lots of great folks at the MX track while riding my CR500R . Once i had the choke set for high idle warm-up as it ping-ping-ding-popped it was making little dust tornadoes 2' tall back about 15ft. behind the bike . A lady broke out a vide-ah camera and vide-ah it .
FYI that was in Kentwood , LA. home of Kentwood bottled water and Britney Spears home town - FYI over .
Tell me if you guys are seeing what I'm seeing here.
First off, look at DMc's pic with the three kids just above and note the HONDA lettering - red letters outlined in black. That is correct for a 1980-82ish model. The one I'm looking at has the H and A okay but the white OND has me wondering. Those white letters aren't correct for any year that I know, but could have been rubbed by something like a bag carrier? That would indicate a lot of riding. Or would there be some logical reason for that?
The axle seems pretty far back, note the amount of space in front where you adjust chain tension. Could be just the way it is but most pics I've seen show that more forward, it should be in the center of the adjustment range. Again, a sign of long use if the chain's stretched enough that it had to be adjusted that far back.
Anybody know what would cause the discoloration on the top of the headlight? Exposure to sun or something?
Not getting paranoid and don't want to accuse the seller of being dishonest from the get go but I'm seeing signs that would belie 278 original miles here and want to be forearmed when I go to look at it.
What I see is some real schitty spray paint work, there are two different colors of red going on there. Forget your forensic's on period correct letter colors and think over-spray from a down and dirty cover up of a sun baked bike.
The area on top the headlight housing is a give away, look right in the middle of the bike above the side case cover where the colors changes, he taped the back part of it off. The top of that center divider would have faded like the headlight area would have so he spray painted it. same with the front fender and the base the seat is bolted to. The seat is surly been redone, hell it looks new..
Don't mean cause it sat out in the sun for years that the miles aren't correct but I can think of a thousand other things such as sun baked brittle wiring or if he didn't just drag a partial bike up outta some where and pieced that thing together...
If he'd do as crappy of a paint job as it looks as if has been done, what else would he of found acceptable when applying his restoration talents?
Leg guard is missing off the exhaust pipe right where ya need it to.
I wouldn't drive too far to look at it unless he had it posted at a give-away price..
My first bike was a Yamaha JT60 when I was 6 and sometime after my Dad brought home an RV90. I was so short he took the seat off so I could ride it but that bit my ass hard so I asked him to put the seat back on it and learned at first to do the midget dismount and later to tripod.
Good eye. I noticed the change in color shading between the center frame cover and the rear swing arm but now that you point it out I can see that color change real clearly on the back half of the body work. Looks like something going on right at the front of the front fender as well, kind of splotchy looking. The right side mirror is missing and the other one is definitely after market.
Been reading some on line articles about checking out used motorcycles in general, smithrjd gave me some good mechanical advice on the other trail bike thread and I've read the owner's manual front to back. Got a two page checklist of things to look at when I get there.
Still keeping an open mind but will definitely approach this with a critical eye.
I'm not as up to date on the later ones, as I am on the CT90. Definitively paint over spray on the red. I'm also not used to seeing blacked out brakes drums, nor the blacked out spot on the clutch cover. The chain adjustment could be a chain a link or two too long. Almost looks like the engine case was painted silver as well. They normally have a clear coat. Headlight was either silver, most were matching IE in this case red. I would like to see the other side of the bike.
The bike looks to be correct enough for the model year with the blacked out drums and spot on the engine case. Also it looks like the frame cover is plastic, in the top pic you can see the shading difference where it meets the upper end of the frame bar.
Originally Posted by smithrjd
...I would like to see the other side of the bike.
Yeah, you and me both. Gotta wait until Friday morning at the earliest for that.
Sun fade on the headlight, looks to be a new seat cover as well. Original most likely had HONDA on the rear. The one on the porch is the ones I know best.
My first bike was a Yamaha JT60 when I was 6 and sometime after my Dad brought home an RV90. I was so short he took the seat off so I could ride it but that bit my ass hard so I asked him to put the seat back on it and learned at first to do the midget dismount and later to tripod.
Seems they hit a marketing homerun catering to all us older farts who had, or wanted, a mini bike when we were kids. Sign me up. I don't care if I ride it around the yard, I want one, lol.
Not saying it is a replacement for the Honda 90, just something I came across in my search. I though it was a neat concept. I haven't seen info on them anywhere but the website so I have no idea if they're actually selling bikes.
I have been raving about the old Honda XR 200. Well it looks like Suzuki built its twin, but in a road legal version.
Looks to be a pretty sweet ride for a geezer, a kid, or anyone else not really expecting to turn the double and triple jumps into singles.
When I was riding my 250 XR (punched to 305, with all the cool race gear on it. The previous owner was a dealer sponsored cross country racer), I often gazed longingly at the Suzuki DR 370. It was the only bike out there I would have traded my Honda for.
The small bikes are now calling to me after riding a xr650l on some serious track in Washington and San Diego,,,,,, Nice purchase. I have a friend that ripped a dr650... good bike.
Well, that 1982 Honda CT110 I was looking at sold today for list price. Seller says a guy wanted it for his 8 year old grandson and didn't even dicker, just handed him full price in cash.
Fwiw, the seller started out in aviation mechanics and got some pretty high certs. He got into fixing up older small engine Hondas as a hobby but got so good the local Honda dealership gives out his number as the guy to call to have them worked on so he knows his stuff.
Anyway, that takes that decision out of my hands.
Originally Posted by TheBigSky
This looks interesting and I'd like to give it a try. I still think the TW200, is THE bike to have in this class. It is just tough to beat for easy to ride, go anywhere, from mountains to prairies and from ranch work to campgrounds. It's not a motocross bike and won't win any races; but, it will go about anywhere and is about as reliable as one can get.
I agree. Went back this afternoon and road the Yamaha TW200 again - it is slow but has a low seat and low CG and is very easy to ride. It's happiest on the street at about 45 mph tops even if it will do more, but it's geared so low that it would be even happier in 2nd or 3rd gear chugging along a trail at 10-15 mph.
Going down to the dealership tomorrow morning and see if we can't work a deal on it.
Originally Posted by ol_mike
...Jim if you don't get the TW - i'll never speak to you again .
I'd not buy an old bike that i planned on riding way out into the wildernes - i'm a scaredy-cat i guess .
ol_mike, it looks like you'll be able to speak to me again. Provided they don't try to rape me too much on the price...
My first bike was a Yamaha JT60 when I was 6 and sometime after my Dad brought home an RV90. I was so short he took the seat off so I could ride it but that bit my ass hard so I asked him to put the seat back on it and learned at first to do the midget dismount and later to tripod.
Glad you had fun on it - but those old rotary valve suzuki's wouldn't pull a greasy string out of a cats pissy . LAME in the HP dept. . Had a suzuki TM 75 - what a POS I could outrun that turd on a bicycle .
Did scar my left calf for life with it though , clutch ball broke off the end of the lever - put it completely through my left calf and barely out the other side . Just noticed it this morning while drinking coffee and remembered that.
If it doesn't have Reed Valve - steer clear and the rotary valve doesn't help fuel economy at all = lame - yeah .
Well, that 1982 Honda CT110 I was looking at sold today for list price. Seller says a guy wanted it for his 8 year old grandson and didn't even dicker, just handed him full price in cash.
Fwiw, the seller started out in aviation mechanics and got some pretty high certs. He got into fixing up older small engine Hondas as a hobby but got so good the local Honda dealership gives out his number as the guy to call to have them worked on so he knows his stuff.
Anyway, that takes that decision out of my hands.
Originally Posted by TheBigSky
This looks interesting and I'd like to give it a try. I still think the TW200, is THE bike to have in this class. It is just tough to beat for easy to ride, go anywhere, from mountains to prairies and from ranch work to campgrounds. It's not a motocross bike and won't win any races; but, it will go about anywhere and is about as reliable as one can get.
I agree. Went back this afternoon and road the Yamaha TW200 again - it is slow but has a low seat and low CG and is very easy to ride. It's happiest on the street at about 45 mph tops even if it will do more, but it's geared so low that it would be even happier in 2nd or 3rd gear chugging along a trail at 10-15 mph.
Going down to the dealership tomorrow morning and see if we can't work a deal on it.
Originally Posted by ol_mike
...Jim if you don't get the TW - i'll never speak to you again .
I'd not buy an old bike that i planned on riding way out into the wildernes - i'm a scaredy-cat i guess .
ol_mike, it looks like you'll be able to speak to me again. Provided they don't try to rape me too much on the price...
Aww Jim I was just joshing you i'd still have spoke to you just not nearly as nice .
The TW will work great - even greater with a cycle hauler plugged into the receiver hitch . It'll chug up hills without needing a head of steam run at the hill thanks to the fat tire on back - get 80 mpg and be dead reliable . Just be fair with the folks at the dealership , bike dealerships and car dealerships are very different in the profits they make . Motorcycle shops don't make millions of dollars - generally speaking a motorcycle is a fun/hobby/toy whereas an automobile/truck is a necessity in life today . Hope you read this tomorrow while sitting on your T-Dub in your garage or living room - kitchen - wife giving you the roll eyes look .
The small bikes are now calling to me after riding a xr650l on some serious track in Washington and San Diego,,,,,, Nice purchase. I have a friend that ripped a dr650... good bike.
Again, 👍🏻
When dual-sport 650's are mentioned do they mean 650cc or 650 lbs .
Just got back from the dealer. Not sitting on the bike yet but it will be delivered this afternoon. Gotta go get a hitch receiver installed before I can carry it anywhere so that'll be next week but will take the long weekend and ride some dirt close to town. Bought a cycleracks rear rack for it, they get great reviews, are super strong and are made just up the road from here. Will be installing that tomorrow morning.
The small bikes are now calling to me after riding a xr650l on some serious track in Washington and San Diego,,,,,, Nice purchase. I have a friend that ripped a dr650... good bike.
Again, 👍🏻
When dual-sport 650's are mentioned do they mean 650cc or 650 lbs .
LOL yes, and Thumper mean heavy SOB when it is upon your leg!
I'm trying to figure out what Jim's conclusion was.
Got the Yamaha TW200, the guy is on his way over to deliver it as I type this.
For the time being going to put a cargo rack on the back and then will consider other mods/additions as needed. Don't plan on going too wild and don't want to change the basic engineering so maybe handguards and wider pegs is about it.
For the time being going to put a cargo rack on the back and then will consider other mods/additions as needed. Don't plan on going too wild and don't want to change the basic engineering so maybe handguards and wider pegs is about it.
I'm torn between one similar as to what you are looking at and this one for the Suzuki TR200S
12-gauge steel construction. Multiple tie-down locations. Easy installation with no modifications required. Hold up to 40 lb..
It's listed at $99.00 w/free shipping.
How flimsy might that 12 ga, steel be? I am thinking just using it as a base mount for a box of some sort..
Yamaha wants you to super pamper it for financial reasons . Don't putt around on it that just slows the time of an important step of getting the rings seated fast .
Run it up 3/4 throttle - don't lug the engine low RPM in too high a gear - run it through the gears downshifting at high RPM --- trust this info. ...
Gotta go get a hitch receiver installed before I can carry it anywhere so that'll be next week but will take the long weekend and ride some dirt close to town.
You have a trailer or are you using a carrier that inserts into the hitch receiver?
My first bike was a Yamaha JT60 when I was 6 and sometime after my Dad brought home an RV90. I was so short he took the seat off so I could ride it but that bit my ass hard so I asked him to put the seat back on it and learned at first to do the midget dismount and later to tripod.
Glad you had fun on it - but those old rotary valve suzuki's wouldn't pull a greasy string out of a cats pissy . LAME in the HP dept. . Had a suzuki TM 75 - what a POS I could outrun that turd on a bicycle .
Did scar my left calf for life with it though , clutch ball broke off the end of the lever - put it completely through my left calf and barely out the other side . Just noticed it this morning while drinking coffee and remembered that.
If it doesn't have Reed Valve - steer clear and the rotary valve doesn't help fuel economy at all = lame - yeah .
Gotta go get a hitch receiver installed before I can carry it anywhere so that'll be next week but will take the long weekend and ride some dirt close to town.
You have a trailer or are you using a carrier that inserts into the hitch receiver?
Will answer all so as not to inflate my post count.
That cargo rack is made locally and is probably 5 times stronger than I'll ever need but it bolts directly to the frame using existing holes and you can literally pick up the bike by grabbing the bars. They make an accessory pannier mount for a 1 or 1.8 gal. auxiliary gas can but with a range of about 145 miles I'm not sure it would ever need that even for an all day trip in the hills. Maybe get one of those 1L fuel cans that look like a metal water bottle for just in case.
Going to get a receiver hitch carrier that will mount on the back of the car and carry the bike sideways. That was one of the big deciding factors in getting this instead of an ATV, the ATV would be more stable obviously but would require a trailer. My garage space is limited so a hitch carrier is the way to go. I called the local Honda dealership, spoke to the service manager and gave him the total weights of the bike and carrier to make sure the car would be okay. He figured as long as I didn't try to gun it uphill or carry too much extra cargo it'd be fine.
Definitely going to get some pics. A camera, binoculars, water, lunch and a map with an X marked someplace I've never been will make for a good day.
The small bikes are now calling to me after riding a xr650l on some serious track in Washington and San Diego,,,,,, Nice purchase. I have a friend that ripped a dr650... good bike.
Again, 👍🏻
When dual-sport 650's are mentioned do they mean 650cc or 650 lbs .
Right!
I dumped my xr650l and (after hospital visit) tore my ac joint in my shoulder. I had to pick the da mn thing up with one arm.... ride with one arm What a trip.....
The seller just delivered my Suzuki DR200S, it's as sweet as he listed it on CL to be, just put 20 miles on it...
Nice looking bike.
Will a 200cc get my 200 lbs to 70 mph for short distances on the highway?
I've had it up to 65 but I am well under 200lbs. I'd suppose it might get there, didn't take anytime to jump up to 65 with me on it. I'm not tagged yet so my street runs have been short but sweet, Just toolin around some back roads nearby for now. I gotta go to DMV when I get the title to the RV I just bought from Bank of America, it should show early next week. Just don't wanna make two trips so I'll wait til I have both in hand...
Still looking but whatever it is has to be light. With a max tongue weight of 350 pounds and a bike that weighs 278 that doesn't leave much room. Have just begun looking but the first one that popped up on Amazon was this Black Widow 400 lb carrier that weighs 38 lbs. It comes with a 6 foot ramp which combined with the low mount on a small SUV should make an easy slope to push the bike up.
Still time to look and order. Getting a receiver bolted on next Friday so wouldn't be able to use it until then anyway.
Chilly 55 degrees out this afternoon but I put 6 miles on it to break it in. Full throttle in first, full in second, screaming in 3rd and by that time I was going 35 mph... Sucker has a right growly little roar to it, like a small dog with a big attitude. Brakes are "adequate", certainly not great but I guess that will help on dirt where you don't want to lock up the wheels too easily. Very different handling than the FZ 07, much lighter and quicker steering, but at low speeds it's a lot easier to keep stable and make very slow speed turns. Just feels like fun, mostly.
Still looking but whatever it is has to be light. With a max tongue weight of 350 pounds and a bike that weighs 278 that doesn't leave much room. Have just begun looking but the first one that popped up on Amazon was this Black Widow 400 lb carrier that weighs 38 lbs. It comes with a 6 foot ramp which combined with the low mount on a small SUV should make an easy slope to push the bike up.
Still time to look and order. Getting a receiver bolted on next Friday so wouldn't be able to use it until then anyway.
Chilly 55 degrees out this afternoon but I put another 6 miles on it to break it in. Full throttle in first, full in second, screaming in 3rd and by that time I was going 35 mph... Sucker has a right growly little roar to it, like a small dog with a big attitude. Brakes are "adequate", certainly not great but I guess that will help on dirt where you don't want to lock up the wheels too easily. Very different handling than the FZ 07, much lighter and quicker steering, but at low speeds it's a lot easier to keep stable and make very slow speed turns. Just feels like fun, mostly.
Do you think you could roll your moto up that ramp by yourself?
Seriously, it shouldn't be that hard with a 278 pound bike. I just measured and the hitch would be about 16" off the ground. With a 6' ramp - 72" - if I remember my geometry that's a slope of 16/72 or 22% which is somewhat steep but manageable. The handlebars will only be some 5' off the ground when it's on the ramp.
But all that is kind of moot. The plan is to get a good head of steam up, hit that baby in a wheelie and set'er down right across the front wheel chocks.....
Seriously, it shouldn't be that hard with a 278 pound bike. I just measured and the hitch would be about 16" off the ground. With a 6' ramp - 72" - if I remember my geometry that's a slope of 16/72 or 22% which is somewhat steep but manageable.
I see. I thought it was going up into the bed of your pickup.
An led headlight bulb is supposedly great - takes a tiny amount of power and is brighter.
I've read many folks on tw200.com say get a quality o-ring or x-ring chain right off the bat . The factory chains aren't high quality - they stretch fast which starts wearing on the sprockets fast . A quality chain will make the sprockets last much longer so that offsets the price of the chain .
A magnetic drain plug is another small doo-dad that helps keep the tiny metal particles where they belong .
I have a shot at a 2011 KLR650 that a good friend crashed for not much money, I am thinking less than 1,200.
To be original it needs a front fairing, side fairings, one crash bar, headlight, cluster, turn signals and a carb rebuild.
I was thinking it may be a decent and cheap ride with just a headlight and turn signals and use it for commuting and keep some mileage off my Ninja 1000.
I have no experience with dual sports, only moto-x bikes from 50 years ago.
I have a shot at a 2011 KLR650 that a good friend crashed for not much money, I am thinking less than 1,200.
To be original it needs a front fairing, side fairings, one crash bar, headlight, cluster, turn signals and a carb rebuild.
I was thinking it may be a decent and cheap ride with just a headlight and turn signals and use it for commuting and keep some mileage off my Ninja 1000.
I have no experience with dual sports, only moto-x bikes from 50 years ago.
What do ya'll think?
No need to buy a crashed bike IMO. Buy something cherry.
Son crashed my 2011 KLR a couple of times.Things will get bent beside things getting broken. With carb issues then the tank is suspect as well. It's been sitting I would guess.
For example. 122 links ready to go. $77.94 https://www.amazon.com/DID-X-Ring-428x122-Yamaha-1995-2018/dp/B0787DP6Y8/ref=sr_1_2?crid=XJ06SPTUN2KN&dchild=1&keywords=428+x+ring+chain&qid=1590203359&sprefix=428+x+ring+chain%2Caps%2C896&sr=8-2
A few seconds on a grinder, 126 links, $68.68 https://www.amazon.com/chain-428-VX-126-links-Open-Ring/dp/B0081HRN0E/ref=sr_1_4?crid=XJ06SPTUN2KN&dchild=1&keywords=428+x+ring+chain&qid=1590203520&sprefix=428+x+ring+chain%2Caps%2C896&sr=8-4
Son crashed my 2011 KLR a couple of times.Things will get bent beside things getting broken. With carb issues then the tank is suspect as well. It's been sitting I would guess.
wow , talk about needing new parts . Never saw that vid before .
I grew up just a few miles from Devils Staircase in Oregonia , Ohio . Old farmer named Noelly Powell owned it - i use to help him bail hay for pocket money .
These hills are way steeper than they look on camera .
Jim, good purchase for you it reads like. Better suspension on those larger bikes which makes a long ride less tiresome. I'd suggest a GPS in your kit somewhere if you plan to get pretty far back into the hinterland. You aren't lost until you are out of gas and the only direction that you know is up and down. On the carrier. Get the best set of tire-downs that you can find. You are not going to have a lot of angle on a bumper rack to secure a bike real well. If your Honda has a roof rack, maybe a safety rope or two over the back end to the bars and rack. I welded some rings onto the hinges of my K5 Blazer for upper tie points when I carried my 250 Bultaco on a bumper rack. I'm reminded of my buddy when he bought a new Lazy Boy recliner. Heavy enough not to need to tie it down in the bed of his pickup, right? Nope. Looking in the rear view mirror seeing it bouncing down the highway behind him depreciated it some.
Crashing was the reason that I got off my fast bikes and onto slower ones. I was having a great time on the forest roads up north on my full race Husqvarna until one day I was doing one of those all crossed up skid turns on a dirt corner when it turned into blacktop halfway through the turn. High sided it down the hill and into the woods. The bike was on top of me and there was warm blood I thought from a head wound running down my face. This must be the way it feels to die I remember thinking to myself. Nope, not yet. It was gear oil from when I punched a hole in the gear case when I'd hit a rock. Brought it home, fixed it and sold it for a third of what I'd bought it for.
I have a shot at a 2011 KLR650 that a good friend crashed for not much money, I am thinking less than 1,200.
To be original it needs a front fairing, side fairings, one crash bar, headlight, cluster, turn signals and a carb rebuild.
I was thinking it may be a decent and cheap ride with just a headlight and turn signals and use it for commuting and keep some mileage off my Ninja 1000.
I have no experience with dual sports, only moto-x bikes from 50 years ago.
What do ya'll think?
They are the AK-47 of motorcycles. The plastics will cost more than it's worth. I ought an '08 with the 685 kit already installed for $2,400 with good side and tank bags. Stay away from the '08 and early '09 unless you're a sharp mechanic. The early Gen II bikes had wiring and piston issues. I put around 8,000 miles on mine in 3 weeks when I went to Tuktoyaktuk. Great bikes for long legs but price plastic before considering the purchase.
Seriously, it shouldn't be that hard with a 278 pound bike. I just measured and the hitch would be about 16" off the ground. With a 6' ramp - 72" - if I remember my geometry that's a slope of 16/72 or 22% which is somewhat steep but manageable. The handlebars will only be some 5' off the ground when it's on the ramp.
I'm not in a big hurry to buy my carrier, I think I'll wait and see how you like the aluminum one you are looking at. The ramp on the steel one I been reading up on is a foot shorter coming in at 5ft. I like the idea of the lighter aluminum and if it pans out well for you I might get one, keep us posted on the loading thing..
Originally Posted by Jim in Idaho
But all that is kind of moot. The plan is to get a good head of steam up, hit that baby in a wheelie and set'er down right across the front wheel chocks.....
Be sure someone is videoing when you do this the first time....we'll all wanna see that maneuver too!
...Crashing was the reason that I got off my fast bikes and onto slower ones. I was having a great time on the forest roads up north on my full race Husqvarna until one day I was doing one of those all crossed up skid turns on a dirt corner when it turned into blacktop halfway through the turn. High sided it down the hill and into the woods. The bike was on top of me and there was warm blood I thought from a head wound running down my face. This must be the way it feels to die I remember thinking to myself. Nope, not yet. It was gear oil from when I punched a hole in the gear case when I'd hit a rock. Brought it home, fixed it and sold it for a third of what I'd bought it for.
Thanks, stories like this give me a warm feeling of confidence.
Got a standard issue license plate yesterday but am really thinking of getting a vanity plate for it that reads EZDZIT (easy does it) or TKITEZ (take it easy). Had a Greeves Griffon for a very short period of time in the early 70's and I could hurt myself on that faster than you could say Jack Robinson, so now it's definitely going to be slow and easy going. I'll break it in as ol_mike recommended - some other folks on youtube have recommend that as well - but after that this bike will probably spend most of its life chugging along in 2nd or 3rd gear.
Amazon up your chain size and longer (428 122 links).
Wishlist it.
Watch for used (open box/damaged packaging) to show up.... Buy when cheap. Thank me.
Since you mentioned it. While watching your vid the other day, I was pretty sure I heard a tired chain or sprocket(s). It just seemed to speak above all the other sounds.
About how far away from your toppers window is that handle bar?
The end of the bars are about 8-10 inches from the window. After affixing the ramp back on the carrier-in between the ramp and the rear bumper I can shimmy my fat arse between the bike and the shell. There's enough room to get the right door open and be able to access the bed.
As to loading I'll walk it up the ramp in low gear and bump the kill switch. First time I just pushed it up. No fun. Rokons are a bitch to push.
I have a shot at a 2011 KLR650 that a good friend crashed for not much money, I am thinking less than 1,200.
To be original it needs a front fairing, side fairings, one crash bar, headlight, cluster, turn signals and a carb rebuild.
I was thinking it may be a decent and cheap ride with just a headlight and turn signals and use it for commuting and keep some mileage off my Ninja 1000.
I have no experience with dual sports, only moto-x bikes from 50 years ago.
What do ya'll think?
Holy smoke, it would have to run into something hard to break all that stuff, as posted, everything usually bends.
And yes, seems like after you price all the plastic you coulda bought one that's never been dropped hard.
Most dirt bike plastic is fairly malleable and comes back to shape pretty well. It burns well though. That dirt bike of mine idled at 122 decibels according to the meter that I borrowed from work. Rather than annoy the neighbors I figured that if I put steel wool in the muffler that it would quiet it right down. It did for a few minutes until I looked behind me and it was like a vapor trail with flame shooting out the muffler. It cooked the rear fender real well too. I missed that day in school science class when they explained that steel wool burns. Not one of my better ideas.
About how far away from your toppers window is that handle bar?
The end of the bars are about 8-10 inches from the window. After affixing the ramp back on the carrier-in between the ramp and the rear bumper I can shimmy my fat arse between the bike and the shell. There's enough room to get the right door open and be able to access the bed.
As to loading I'll walk it up the ramp in low gear and bump the kill switch. First time I just pushed it up. No fun. Rokons are a bitch to push.
Thanks, my RV sits higher and there is a ladder on the back for accessing the roof. Gotta get some tight measurements to sure I will not get into the ladder with the handle bars so your response is of much value with my calculations. They have a drop extension that I may have to use, it'd put the bike a little lower and a little future back.
Bought this one about 4-5 years ago(blue, bone stock) with very low miles....Started messing with it and this is the end result. The plan was / is to buy a camper and hitch it to the back....we'll see, I haven't used it much to this point.
I like those saddlebags. Looks like a cycleracks rack on the back or something very similar in design.
Put the cycleracks on mine yesterday morning, then had one of those hmmm moments - if it's packed high with gear how am I going to swing my leg over it? There are ways to do that but those bags would eliminate any problem, plus they get the weight down lower which is where you want it. They might catch on brush on narrow paths but they shouldn't stick out much more than the handlebars if any.
That's a really nice setup with the handguards and racks. With a full tank and that 1 gallon aux can you'd have a range of about 225 miles.
Bought this one about 4-5 years ago(blue, bone stock) with very low miles....Started messing with it and this is the end result. The plan was / is to buy a camper and hitch it to the back....we'll see, I haven't used it much to this point.
Get that bad boy on the road, it looks great! It'd look better out in your favorite place beside a campfire...
I get all the use I can outta mine.... This was last Fall in Montana sitting beside Hungry Horse Reservoir..
Thanks Jim, I originally purchased those bags in Sturgis one year for my softail but could never get them to fit the way I wanted...I new they would come in handy one day.
Bought this one about 4-5 years ago(blue, bone stock) with very low miles....Started messing with it and this is the end result. The plan was / is to buy a camper and hitch it to the back....we'll see, I haven't used it much to this point.
Yamaha wants you to super pamper it for financial reasons . Don't putt around on it that just slows the time of an important step of getting the rings seated fast .
Run it up 3/4 throttle - don't lug the engine low RPM in too high a gear - run it through the gears downshifting at high RPM --- trust this info. ...
Back in the all 2 stroke days I knew Ed Scheidler. He was the head of Yamaha USA off road development. I asked him about break in procedure and he said the team just ran the bikes. He mentioned in less words that the engine needed to be run to get proper ring seal. He was a mechanic for Pierre Karmakers when he came to race US motocross. He was at Yamaha through all the greats, Hannah, Glover etc. I believed what he said. The article you posted is excellent. The author has written about breaking in a rebuilt motor. His philosophy was to take a an engine using NO oil on the rings, when the cylinder is on, kick the bike through dry about 30-40 kicks. He recommends this for 2 and 4 stroke bikes. I did this on a Honda CR250 and a Honda CRF450. When I sold my CR250 the guy that bought it remarked that it was faster than 2 previous bikes he looked at. I will continue to use his techniques whenever I rebuild anything.
Went out this afternoon and got obnoxious all over this section of town. Start up from stoplights full throttle and I mean throttle turned all the way to the stop, second gear same, third gear same - it really is only going about 40 when you wind it out in 3rd, then cruise for a while at 45 in 4th gear, come to another stop light and straight down to 3rd, then 2nd at 20 mph so those rpm's kick right up. This thing has a very growly exhaust note so a few homeowners and passers by were giving me the evil eye for being so loud.
It had 4 miles on it from the dealer - three of which I put on in test driving before buying. I set the tripmeter to 0 and that now has 19 miles on that so it should have a good start.
Good stuff ! Been watching some vintage MX - Pierre Karmakers - old school .
This info. of fast break in has been around for a long time - as i previously said it's a financial thing with the makers - it's all about the money to them .
A race engine builder in Biloxi [name excapes me] built the engines for the Dole Pineapple sponsored pontiac fiero [1980's] can't remember the series SCCA ? --?. I bought turbo blue race gas from him , anyway i watched them start warm up a heavy duty race engine . As soon as it started they put it up on 2-3000rpm when the head was hot to the touch they turned it off after a couple of throttle whacks . Gave it a visual check for leaks etc. - then fired it back up and ripped some wide open throttle blast 7-8000 rpm after coming to life about one minute before .
Broke engines in using this method for years now it's a secret everyone should know . When i get a TW200 i'll do the same - but the dealership won't likely let a dry engine bike get cranked over 30-40 times .
Lads at the car dealership told me - ''you'll like that truck' F150 lariat 5.4 towing package''- i asked if it would haul ass - yep - so i knew it was broke in right .
It had 4 miles on it from the dealer - three of which I put on in test driving before buying. I set the tripmeter to 0 and that now has 19 miles on that so it should have a good start.
I gotcha by 10, I set the trip meter on the Suzuki when the guy dropped it off, I've put 29 miles on it toolin' around the hood here......It's a keeper.....another mile and it'll have 300 on it....
Yamaha wants you to super pamper it for financial reasons . Don't putt around on it that just slows the time of an important step of getting the rings seated fast .
Run it up 3/4 throttle - don't lug the engine low RPM in too high a gear - run it through the gears downshifting at high RPM --- trust this info. ...
Back in the all 2 stroke days I knew Ed Scheidler. He was the head of Yamaha USA off road development. I asked him about break in procedure and he said the team just ran the bikes. He mentioned in less words that the engine needed to be run to get proper ring seal. He was a mechanic for Pierre Karmakers when he came to race US motocross. He was at Yamaha through all the greats, Hannah, Glover etc. I believed what he said. The article you posted is excellent. The author has written about breaking in a rebuilt motor. His philosophy was to take a an engine using NO oil on the rings, when the cylinder is on, kick the bike through dry about 30-40 kicks. He recommends this for 2 and 4 stroke bikes. I did this on a Honda CR250 and a Honda CRF450. When I sold my CR250 the guy that bought it remarked that it was faster than 2 previous bikes he looked at. I will continue to use his techniques whenever I rebuild anything.
My bud Barry was a American jap..... we rode off rode, Honda xrs...... He worked for Honda and said the same thing...... we tricked out our bikes...... cams, jetting, headers, exhaust, sprockets, wheels.... Barry died from cancer...... RIP bud.
Sold my little classic motorcycle trailer this morning - Holsclaw - best trailer ever made . A cool guy -77 years old collects them - drove all the way from North Carolina to pick it up , 765 miles . He has 6 of the models like i sold him today .
Had it for 25 years dragged it to Daytona bike week/track days/MX tracks as far as North Georgia .
I have a shot at a 2011 KLR650 that a good friend crashed for not much money, I am thinking less than 1,200.
To be original it needs a front fairing, side fairings, one crash bar, headlight, cluster, turn signals and a carb rebuild.
I was thinking it may be a decent and cheap ride with just a headlight and turn signals and use it for commuting and keep some mileage off my Ninja 1000.
I have no experience with dual sports, only moto-x bikes from 50 years ago.
What do ya'll think?
No need to buy a crashed bike IMO. Buy something cherry.
I went to look at it today, he still has all the plastic although it's all cracked but I could stitch back together with zip ties pretty easy.
When he told me what he wants for it just to get it out of his garage I would be stupid not to trailer it home and put it together. Hell, even if never saw pavement again it would be worth four times what I will pay for the bike, accessories and some armor to go with it.
Sold my little classic motorcycle trailer this morning - Holsclaw - best trailer ever made . A cool guy -77 years old collects them - drove all the way from North Carolina to pick it up , 765 miles . He has 6 of the models like i sold him today .
Had it for 25 years dragged it to Daytona bike week/track days/MX tracks as far as North Georgia .
Crashing was the reason that I got off my fast bikes and onto slower ones. I was having a great time on the forest roads up north on my full race Husqvarna until one day I was doing one of those all crossed up skid turns on a dirt corner when it turned into blacktop halfway through the turn. High sided it down the hill and into the woods. The bike was on top of me and there was warm blood I thought from a head wound running down my face. This must be the way it feels to die I remember thinking to myself. Nope, not yet. It was gear oil from when I punched a hole in the gear case when I'd hit a rock. Brought it home, fixed it and sold it for a third of what I'd bought it for.
Reminds me of the worst wreck we almost got into.
I was always the slowest rider of the group. Less daring, and much less skilled, so I was always at the back of the pack eating dust. But some days that is a good thing.
My two cousins thought the USFS roads were meant for flat track race practice. Around the corners they would have the bike nearly sideways with the front forks twisted to the lock, laid back at a 45 degree angle and the back tire spraying gravel all the way through the bend in the road.
The problem with that practice is half the corners are blind as the road bends around a ridge line, and you have no idea what is on the other side.
One day, as typical, I was bringing up the rear on a string of four bikes, and I see weird stuff starting to happen in front of me. I saw a brake light on the one bike that was so equipped, then I saw my buddies off the road and headed through the downhill into the forest, each a little slower than the one before.
I started downshifting and hit the brakes, down to about fifteen or twenty MPH, wondering what the hell I was coming up, expecting a logging truck, or a herd of cows.
But no, there stretched across the road piano wire tight was a 1/2 steel cable just a bit higher than the handle bars on my XR 250. Some jack ass out gathering next winter's wood supply had a snatch block anchored to a tree just above the road. One end of a 500 foot cable was tied to the back of his 4X4 pickup, which was headed down the road in the direction we had been traveling. The other end was tied to the butt of a 36 inch diameter doug fir which was being dragged up the hill to the road for easy sawing and loading.
I suspect the first rider, or possibly two in our procession might have stained his tighty whiteys that day.
I have a shot at a 2011 KLR650 that a good friend crashed for not much money, I am thinking less than 1,200.
To be original it needs a front fairing, side fairings, one crash bar, headlight, cluster, turn signals and a carb rebuild.
I was thinking it may be a decent and cheap ride with just a headlight and turn signals and use it for commuting and keep some mileage off my Ninja 1000.
I have no experience with dual sports, only moto-x bikes from 50 years ago.
What do ya'll think?
No need to buy a crashed bike IMO. Buy something cherry.
I went to look at it today, he still has all the plastic although it's all cracked but I could stitch back together with zip ties pretty easy.
When he told me what he wants for it just to get it out of his garage I would be stupid not to trailer it home and put it together. Hell, even if never saw pavement again it would be worth four times what I will pay for the bike, accessories and some armor to go with it.
Ok. My KLR250 was valued at IIRC $230 after totaling. New bars, a brake lever, a mirror bracket, twist the forks, and good to go. Traded it for an SUV that I sold for $3600. But, most chit doesn't work out so well. LOL
Crashing was the reason that I got off my fast bikes and onto slower ones. I was having a great time on the forest roads up north on my full race Husqvarna until one day I was doing one of those all crossed up skid turns on a dirt corner when it turned into blacktop halfway through the turn. High sided it down the hill and into the woods. The bike was on top of me and there was warm blood I thought from a head wound running down my face. This must be the way it feels to die I remember thinking to myself. Nope, not yet. It was gear oil from when I punched a hole in the gear case when I'd hit a rock. Brought it home, fixed it and sold it for a third of what I'd bought it for.
Reminds me of the worst wreck we almost got into.
I was always the slowest rider of the group. Less daring, and much less skilled, so I was always at the back of the pack eating dust. But some days that is a good thing.
My two cousins thought the USFS roads were meant for flat track race practice. Around the corners they would have the bike nearly sideways with the front forks twisted to the lock, laid back at a 45 degree angle and the back tire spraying gravel all the way through the bend in the road.
The problem with that practice is half the corners are blind as the road bends around a ridge line, and you have no idea what is on the other side.
One day, as typical, I was bringing up the rear on a string of four bikes, and I see weird stuff starting to happen in front of me. I saw a brake light on the one bike that was so equipped, then I saw my buddies off the road and headed through the downhill into the forest, each a little slower than the one before.
I started downshifting and hit the brakes, down to about fifteen or twenty MPH, wondering what the hell I was coming up, expecting a logging truck, or a herd of cows.
But no, there stretched across the road piano wire tight was a 1/2 steel cable just a bit higher than the handle bars on my XR 250. Some jack ass out gathering next winter's wood supply had a snatch block anchored to a tree just above the road. One end of a 500 foot cable was tied to the back of his 4X4 pickup, which was headed down the road in the direction we had been traveling. The other end was tied to the butt of a 36 inch diameter doug fir which was being dragged up the hill to the road for easy sawing and loading.
I suspect the first rider, or possibly two in our procession might have stained his tighty whiteys that day.
Cool but scary story..... I have a friend that almost lost his head. Literally almost lost it. He was going up to LaPorte, Ca and hit ice, slid into barb wire fence.......not good. He survived.....
Seriously, looking to get a small dual sport motorcycle just to tour the country side and know there are a lot of dirt bikers here so looking for experience and experienced opinions but will accept snide remarks, whatever. ![[Linked Image from cdp.azureedge.net]](https://cdp.azureedge.net/products/USA/YA/2019/MC/DUALPURP/TW200/50/SANDY_BEIGE/2000000011.jpg)
![[Linked Image from cdp.azureedge.net]](https://cdp.azureedge.net/products/USA/YA/2019/MC/DUALPURP/XT250/50/SANDY_BEIGE/2000000002.jpg)
![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/Z5Qb7FgW/41vc-Il-FZyq-L-AC.jpg)
![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/j5Ff8BMp/supermoto.jpg)
![[Linked Image from fs.usda.gov]](https://www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_MEDIA/stelprdb5208585.jpg)
![[Linked Image from s0.geograph.org.uk]](https://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/01/97/05/1970536_80507be3.jpg)
![[Linked Image from media-cdn.tripadvisor.com]](https://media-cdn.tripadvisor.com/media/photo-s/0d/fa/4e/2e/bali-dirt-bike-adventures.jpg)
![[Linked Image from assets.change.org]](https://assets.change.org/photos/6/av/zg/kcaVzGdYDPEyGoJ-800x450-noPad.jpg)
![[Linked Image from i.ytimg.com]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/FU_mvtoj3EE/hqdefault.jpg)
![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/zXr4Nd6s/4cbff728d4687f8fbf2ee246a3139fbc.jpg)
![[Linked Image]](https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/gallery/80/medium/130060.jpg)
![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/nnmfQTf.jpg)
![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/6SQTeRJ.jpg)
![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/yxhwXrWv/Granada-Hills2.jpg)
![[Linked Image from images.craigslist.org]](https://images.craigslist.org/00Q0Q_6CKdvRNbdhB_600x450.jpg)
![[Linked Image from img-hw.xnxx-cdn.com]](https://img-hw.xnxx-cdn.com/videos/thumbs169lll/28/ab/12/28ab12234fe7a5c04aadaa332cf74fb8/28ab12234fe7a5c04aadaa332cf74fb8.1.jpg)
![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/13Hk3rbK/photo-11.jpg)
![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/xCM0CBRT/images-5.jpg)
![[Linked Image from images.craigslist.org]](https://images.craigslist.org/00Q0Q_6CKdvRNbdhB_1200x900.jpg)
![[Linked Image from external-content.duckduckgo.com]](https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cmsnl.com%2Fimg%2Fcommunity%2Fvehicles%2F7%2F71%2F713%2F713311%2Fbig_201305070147450.Rover%252012.JPG)
![[Linked Image from cyclechaos.com]](https://www.cyclechaos.com/images/f/f8/1982-Honda-CT110-Red-2510-0.jpg)
![[Linked Image from cdp.azureedge.net]](https://cdp.azureedge.net/products/USA/SU/2017/MC/DUALPURP/DR200S/50/SOLID_BLACK/2000000011.jpg)
![[Linked Image from cdn.shopify.com]](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1213/2892/products/TW200_Rear_1024x1024.jpg)
![[Linked Image from storage.googleapis.com]](https://storage.googleapis.com/motoroso-images-production/products/0b/eb/0bebf58dd812c08e9db8f98cb276d49fdf6f9288_lg.jpg)
![[Linked Image from images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com]](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/31PURFbh2cL._AC_.jpg)
![[Linked Image from images.triumphmotorcycles.co.uk]](https://images.triumphmotorcycles.co.uk/media-library/images/motorcycles/variant%20promos%20-%20family%20page/scrambler-1200-xc-rhs-green-955x537.jpg)
![[Linked Image from discountramps.com]](https://www.discountramps.com/images/xxl/AMC-400L__5.jpg)
![[Linked Image from oi723.photobucket.com]](https://oi723.photobucket.com/albums/ww235/JohnnyLimbo/wErtBCB2QxqEa9Qs48nYyA_zpshrdam88z.jpg)
![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/pLMrLLw3/IMG-0857-1.jpg)
![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/O0aXZUR.jpg)
![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/t8hXN5x.jpg)