I generally implement the forced retrieve in my dogs but not every time and for various reasons. I currently run pointing dogs, mainly setters and Continental breeds but started with Labs and have had two spaniels over the years.
The first reason, and the one everybody thinks of, is to enforce retrieving desire. This is important for those taking part in tests and trials as well as those who want/need/demand the dog to retrieve in all conditions. This would probably be important to those who hunt waterfowl over big water or moving waters particularly late in the year. This greater obedience is not only to have the dog retrieve when it may not feel like it but it will better allow one to call off the dog if conditions warrant. It could also be helpful for hunting geese were a fair number of birds may be retrieved in a day. I've seen this with snow geese where limits can be 20 or more birds per Hunter but a group hunting Canadas can run into a lot of birds where bag limits can be 5 birds per person.
Secondly, force fetch can help prevent hard mouth in a dog that is beginning to think of taking up that habit. I doubt it will break a habitual hard mouthed but it seems to lessen the odds of it happening if force fetch is started early. I do fore break all my VDD dogs as one of the requirements is to retrieve fur. As the desire to kill fur is fairly strong in these lines, that can carry over into retrieving fur. This may not be a major fault to some but I prefer having whatever is retrieved to have fewer holes in it. Especially fur that has some value as a pelt as I hate throwing money away.
The final reason, and one I feel most important, is force breaking helps enhance obedience. No matter how well the dog responded beforehand, they have responded better/faster/crisper afterward. This again helps in testing or trialling but I really appreciate the immediance of response when I need to divert the dog from a problem. This is particularly important with pointing breeds as they often work at a greater distance from the handler than flushing dogs.
If you decide on force training, I would do the force breaking myself. For the first timer I would look at hiring a local trainer to train you how to do it along with your dog. You will probably learn what not to do too, and not just in regards to force fetch? I personally feel going through the process together builds a better bond between dog and handler through more contact under harsher conditions than the norm. Your buddy might be willing to help you. I had a trainer help me with the first two dogs (Labs) and then again when I switched to pointing dogs. The one thing you must realize is that once started you will need to see it through to the end. Giving up may not teach the dog it is the boss but it will realize it does not necessarily have to obey and one will go backwards in obedience.
Force breaking is not difficult but one has to remember that the dog will Yelp, wail, bark, growl, or otherwise throw tantrums the degree of which depends on the method of force breaking used. Like breaking horses, where much of dog training terminology originated, there are two methods.
The one most commonly known is force breaking or fetching. It revolves around discomfort more than true pain. The dog will make all kinds of vocalizations but they are more out of unwillingness to accept the training than true pain. This is particularly true if using the ear pinch rather than toe pinch. It is not uncommon for the dog to go into hysterics if it sees the hand approach its head. It is also a reason I don't use this technique often.
The other method is gentle breaking. Like horses, it is slower and longer and best if started at a young age. I believe I first came across this method in North American Versatile Hunting Dog's "Green Book" training manual but I think it was dropped from the book a few decades back. Start with short easy retrieves done 1-3 times often through the day. Lengthen the retrieves slightly after the earlier ones are mastered. Switch out the retrieving item from bumpers as the dog gains confidence. I've used socks, blocks of wood, stuffed fire hose, hair brushes, empty soda cans, car keys, and whatever else I could find. It generally takes me 8 months to get a dog trained this way versus 6-8 weeks using toe pinch.
Which method to use depends on your dog's temperament, the goal(s) of the training, the time you wish to devote to the process, and your willingness to stick with it. If you are wishy-washy towards the process then it is probably not in your and your dog's best interest to start.
