My main plan is to sell just the part. I figured I would offer the installation service for anyone who didn't want to mess with it themselves. I hope to accept payments from almost any source, just please don't send me rolls of pennies! The Paypal and credit card processing may have a small fee added to cover some of my expense of that. Not positive as I haven't figured all that out yet.
I will produce a "how-to" instruction sheet with photos detailing the swap.
My price will be $25 for one, $45 for two, and $60 for 3. Want to buy a bunch, contact me and we'll talk! Shipping is included in the price.
I follow the golden rule - treat others as you want to be treated - so if there is a problem I will make it right. You wouldn't believe the amount of time and money I have spent on this in the last several months. My main goal here is simply to make my money back on this project! I could have bought a nice Cooper or Blaser rifle with what I have tied up in this, several if you put a dollar value on my time. Why I am doing all of this, that's a darn good question (I ask myself that sometimes, esp. after I smashed my finger working on it this weekend). I am one of those types that loves to tinker and solve problems, and this looked like a fun one to solve. Want to hear something funny? I don't even own one of these Ruger American rifles in .223 yet! Combine that with an entrepreneurial spirit and you find someone who is rarely bored. I have already ordered some bluetooth hardware for my next project, wireless control of a Pro Chrono chronograph using your cell phone!
I am still determining how long it takes me to make one. My manufacturing is a very manual operation and I still have to do some post-injection processing on the part. The three locking tabs need to be glued into the main body. Also, one of the holes for the mating tab is proving to be VERY difficult. you can actually see this in the 1st picture of this thread, it's the part in the upper left corner of the picture. There is a very thin-wall condition going on where the plastic does not want to flow. It is even a problem on the factory part from Ruger, the two I have from them both show problems in this area. I guarantee you they are using a bigger injection press than I am! I have removed the tab from my mold so it actually gets injected as a positive, then I cut the positive off and manually machine in the negative slot. Delicate work as the walls that are left are less than 1 mm thick.
Thanks for the interest and support! Chaz
