Well, I don't want to dispute anyone here who has given suggestions. Most of the suggestions have been excellent and just show the many different methods employed to finish a stock. Obviously, some work better than others- for instance, I tried the spray on Birchwood Casey Polyurethane a couple of times and gave it up as a waste of time. The coats were just so thin as to be practically nonexistent, and the cans didn't hold enough to finish a stock completely. In fact, I went through 2 cans on one stock and I still think I didn't put enough finish on the stock, after sanding between coats, to make a satisfactory finish. Your milage may vary.<P>As to the issue of moisture, I guess you have to look at moisture and finishes from two different perspectives. <BR>While I agree the plastic finishes will seal out the ambient moistures, they also seal IN the existing moisture in the stock which can be anywhere from 7%-12%. As long as this stays stable, you probably will have a stable piece of wood as long as you own it, but in severe conditions, this moisture in the wood can affect the outer finish. Excess heat or cold will cause this moisture to want to migrate out of the stock, with nowhere to go. What happens next can take many forms, blisters under the finish, bubbles in a finish that is not quite completely cured, or just warpage at a point of concentration such as figure in the wood. Or, what is more likely is this scenario. Most stock finishers who use the plastic finishes, don't use them on the interior places, action area, butt stock, etc.. This area is usually done in oil of some sort because you don't require a nice looking finish in these areas. Now, what do you suppose happens when you have a piece of wood with different finish porosity on different sides? The moisture will leave (or collect) faster from the oiled side than the plasticized side, leaving one side of the stock drier (or wetter)than another area. Warpage or wood movement is the inevitable result. <P>Other finishers prefer to use oil finishes of many different types, Linseed oil, varnishes, Tung oil, combinations of all of these, etc... The reasons they have worked for so long is because of the fact that they breathe and the wood has a chance to acclimate slowly to ambient temperatures without sudden changes. Yes, the wood may take on moisture and also bleed off moisture when ambient moisture levels and temperatures dictate it, but the amount is small and usually doesn't affect the stability of the stock because the transfer is gradual and over the entire stock. <P>Obviously, some stock woods, especially highly figured woods, will warp and move more than others. This has little to do with the moisture, as temperatures and other factors can also cause this. A good stockmaker will see this fault in most stock blanks and discard them when they are discovered. Also, consider this- the most highly figured stocks are also the most prized for high-end rifles. These rifles almost always get some type of oil finish and a hand rubbed texture is desired at the end. Keep in mind that the varnishes most used by stockmakers that seem to be more waterproof than the other finishes mentioned, Tru-oil, linseed oil, tung oil, are also oil based. <P>I am definitely no expert on this subject, but I have learned a bunch from this thread and many others like it on this and other boards. Many have contributed and I appreciate all the different opinions on this subject, especially Ray Atkinson who is always generous with his many years of experience. I won't say I disagree directly with any one on this thread, but I will have to give some thought to some of the suggestions. If nothing else, to see if it fits my methods and needs at the moment. Take care- Sheister
