Scott<BR>There are no compatability problems with epoxy and oil. The answer will vary with the finish on the stock, if there is one. The linseed oil thread under gunsmithing should answer most of your questions, but feel free to ask here, or email me for more specific answers.<P>Virtually any finish can be turned into an eggshell luster job with the application of rotten stone in mineral oil, on a soft cloth.<P>Murf<BR>Watco water-spots readily, and does not compare favorably with other finishes in terms of durability, toughness, or hardness.<P>Polymerization is the process that oil finishes cure through. Hydrocarbon chains link and cross link through several different chemical means, but they do not link with the wood, beyond the mechanical grip applied to the wood.<P>Steel wool is a very bad idea on stocks, except possibly the first step in the final buff-out. Any bits not removed have the potential to create a very ugly mark, at any time.<P>Rolly<BR>When Tru-oil is applied in the very thin coats it should be applied in, it cures extremely rapidly, allowing 3-4 coats a day. Once you have 20 or so coats applied, I like to let it cure thoroughly before buffing-out, but that still can be done in a few weeks, or less.<P>The varathane is a reasonable finish, though it builds too much for my taste and makes sharp corners hard to maintain.<BR>art
