Thanks Joe, and Scot... since you guys both have (had) Kimber MT's of mine, you both have seen first hand the bedding.
Scot, as to the rings...
I de-grease the underside of the ring bases, screws, and receiver screw holes with denatured alcohol. You really don't need to get too carried away, the epoxy will stick well enough. I then mix 2-Part standard grey JB Weld and coat the bottom of the bases. I also daub on a tiny bit the screws. I then attach them to the receiver, and finish tightening slowly with the Torque Wrench to 25 inch lbs. I clean up the excess with denatured alcohol (clean up helps with Q-Tips).
Lapping, I use a lapping bar and 240 grit lapping compound. Aluminum rings go quick so don't get too carried away. Also, because the receiver tops are so straight and even, the Kimber's are about the easiest action to lap rings to I've ever experienced... there's little to overcome in terms of out-of-whack machining.
Before lapping I wrap the action with saran wrap, and tape around the bases to keep lapping compound out of the action and off the stock and barrel.
On Talley Lwt's I plug the inside hole of each ring with a bit of cotton to keep lapping compound out.
After lapping, the rings will typically (depending on make) have a sharp edge all the way around. I take a fine rattail file and lightly relieve those edges at a 45* in order to keep them from marring whatever scope is to get mounted.
For scope mounting, I just apply a thin layer of Elmer's rubber cement. Whatever oozes out, I let dry and clean off. Scope rings get 20 inch lbs.
I think the above is as bomb-proof a method of scope mounting as you'll find. The JB Weld essentially provides a monolithic scope base.
To remove the bases, pop the action out of the stock, kiss the rings with a Benzomatic torch, and loosen the screws.
