Mil or moa. Always preferred moa in the past. Now days it’s pretty much potato pahtato. It’s just a unit of measure. Mil does break down better for a ffp reticle I will say that.
Yeah, it's not exactly pohtato Vs.potahto. The actual usage is different. Let me give you a real-life example.
I'm a (very) long time high power competition shooter who sought refuge in F-class about 17 years ago because I could use a riflescope. In NRA (and similar) competitions at known distances, requiring a high degree of precision, the SFP riflescope with an MOA-based reticle rules the roost. The target is all MOA based and even with varying distances (like 600 and 1000 yards), you just use a zero setting for that distance as expressed in MOAs offset from the other distances. For example, my 1000-yard zero is the actual 0 on my scope and to get to the 600-yard zero, it's 20MOA down, or two turns. When I'm finished at 600, I dial back to the 1000-yard zero. Easy peasy. During a match, I will make corrections depending on what I see on the target, and it's all MOA.
I also shoot (infrequently) some PRS competitions. There are various distances encountered in the course of fire. They will range from say 300 yards to 1000 yards. Before the match, I make a quick chart of the various distances and set up the FFP/Mil scope on my PRS rifle, such as it is, with the 0 set to below the minimum distance for the course. Then I calculate the distances to be fired and plot them from the zero I just set. For instance, I have a course with targets at 341, 479, 595, 702, 797 and 950 yards. My zero on the rifle is 200yards. So, I plot out the various come up from 200 for the distances I just listed. The come-ups will all be in Mill to 1 decimal. For example, 341 could be 1.4 MIL; 479, would be 2.7MIL and so on until I get to 950 which would be say, 9.4MIL. The elevation dial on my FFP scope is 10MIL/rotation. This means that I simply dial the exact number on that dial, that corresponds to the come-up for that distance. I can quickly dial from 1.4 to 9.4 (341 yards to 950yards) just turning the dial and looking at the numbers.
Try doing that with an MOA-based dial really quickly. For one thing you will get tripped with the 1/4 or 1/8 MOA markings and also, instead of a dial that has 36MOA per revolution (10MIL), you have a 10MOA/rev or some such. That gets even trickier and I guarantee you that at my age, I will be badly fumbling and be totally lost halfway through the first stage as the targets are not necessary in order of increasing distances. The fiends.
Anyway, that has been my experience; use the proper tool for the job. MOA and MIL are both suitable for hunting, but I find it's easier to dial offsets in MILs. That's if you dial at all, of course.
