Hey bogger, that's a nice looking rifle. So your comments are just about the inside then right? ya didn't end up with a bunch of bedding gooped up all over the outside or nuthin right? You'll have to let us know how it shoots.
Coyote hunter, I was thinking about taking some picks of how I crack em loose.
Go to something sturdy like a kitchen counter or a reloading bench. Fold or roll a towel up to make a fairly dense pad, place that at the edge of the counter/table & leave it hanging over the edge a little to be sure you don't whack the barrel directly on the table edge. Then grab your rifle & hold it horizontal, right side up as you would if you were shooting it. One hand back at the wrist area of the stock (I like to hook my thumb over the tang area to help hang onto the action) Then with the other hand grasping the fore end from the underside, fingers gripping the stock only, not the barrel. You are basically trying to pull the stock away from the barreled action. Use the padded counter/table edge as a stop for your barrel to rest on. Your rifle is perpendicular to the counter/table edge with only the barrel actually on the counter/table edge. The Idea is to pull down with a few short pulls (like 3 inches of travel or so) Pulling downward on your stock's fore end & allowing the barrel forward of the fore end to hit the rolled/folded towel on the table edge. Start easy & increase the power of your downward pull on the fore end until you feel it pop loose. The thing to remember here is that you are not just tapping the barrel on the table, you are trying to pull the stock off of the barrel. Like them golfer dudes say about singing through the shot, same goes here. You want the barrel to stop when it contacts the table edge but you want the stock to keep moving down & away from the barrel. So pull through the point at which the barrel contacts the padded table edge. Once it pops, you stop with the whole barrel whacking & just wiggle the barreled action loose out of it's stock. (all of this effort with in reason of course. I�ve heard of guys having things stuck pretty badly & actually having to do things like freeze the whole rifle & give it a try frozen.)
Different actions have different shapes & different places for the bedding to flow into that may mechanically anchor your action onto the stock. This is why you must study the shape of the area you wish to bed & watch for grooves and or holes that the bedding may flow into in a way that it will not want to let go once it becomes solid.
That's why I showed these areas specifically, the recoil lug area & the tang. A lot of people bed between these areas, myself included (on certain projects) but more risk comes with that. The recoil lug & a very sparing amount in the tang area can typically be done very safely.
The most bang for your buck is up in that recoil lug area. A lot of lugs are really blocky & less shapely than this ruger. A lot of lugs run deeper into the bedding than this ruger does too. An M70 has a very robust recoil lug, simple in shape compared to this ruger but it runs deeper into the inletting. They can be a little tougher to pop loose. To me some of the easiest actions to bed are these M77's & some of the savages.
It's almost like savage thought of us when they made there recoil lug, It has a nice wedge shape to it, they seem like they were made to be glass bed.
