It's time to seal. For this phase I'll be using a brush to apply the finish. The goal is to get 100% coverage of the stock and let the finish soak into the wood. You'll want to coat the entire stock including the inletting and screw holes. We want to seal it up completely.

For this stage we want to mix in about 10% Japan Drier to our finish. This will aid the drying process.

Any type brush will work for this stage. We aren't after a streak free finish and will be wiping the excess off the stock with a rag.

Now with the Watco Teak Oil no thinning is needed. This stuff is about as thin as paint thinner already. If you have chosen a thicker type finish you will need to thin it down for this step. You want it very thin so it'll soak into the wood and penetrate deeply. Don't worry about runs or drips, we want that to happen.

After your finish is prepared dunk your brush in and start brushing the stock down. Put it on liberally until it starts running and dripping off the stock. Brush the exterior and the inletting down. When you get to holes in the stock like buttplate screws, sling swivel holes, triggerguard holes, etc., load up the paint brush and press down in these areas so the paint brush unloads and the finish runs freely through these crevasses. The idea is to get 100% coverage and the mess it makes is of no concern at this point. After this is done look the stock over. If you see any areas that don't have pooling finish on them, brush them down again. Eventually the stock will become saturated and will not accept any more finish. When this happens wait a few more minutes then get a paper towel and wipe off the excess. You don't want any finish standing on the surface.

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At this point the stock is starting to darken up slightly and beginning to resemble what the finished product will look like. The camera flash takes a little of the color away though, it's darker in person wink. It'll darken up slightly more as more coats go on.

Last edited by TC1; 02/16/15. Reason: can't spell