Originally Posted by KJ_Garrison
Hi guys. Maybe this should be a new topic, but since my rifle is a 260 rem, I'll at least start here.

I notice that in this forum (which admittedly I have not read in it's entirety) and other handloading/reloading sites it is common for loads to exceed the "maximum" posted loads in the manuals by A LOT.

Has everybody REALLY started out at the manuals' starting loads and cautiously increased the load fractions of grains at a time up to, and beyond, the published maximums?

In a time where ALL the components are in short supply, is there a SAFE way to "get there" sooner? Or at least to get close to "there" so that the resources can be used more efficiently?

I see all kinds of guidance. Anything from starting at the minimum published load to starting a 90% - 95% of the published max load. I know, the min load is usually ~90% of the max load, but using 95% would save half the bullets, primers and powder.

And when I see that virtually everybody is using loads that are significantly above the published max loads, I wonder about trying 90% or 95% of these supermax loads.

I have a chrono and wonder if I shouldn't just make the jumps on powder charge based on how close to a targeted MV.

I also have learned that the best charge has to be found by testing on each and every gun, and I wonder about what range of velocities or range of powder charge less than supermax or maybe even published max I should do my ladder at.

I saw a post someplace that said to use a chrono and get up to 2775 - 2825; then fine tune.

My rifle is a Savage M12 LRP.


What's a chrono? smile I've never used one. Have no idea what either factory or reloads velocities are - nor care with one exception. If I know the vel, I can calculate the drop at range. Book value velocities are probably close, but not exact to individual rifles - especially since many of these are taken at alternative barrel lengths and ammo components.. Close enough to work with for drop, tho.

Velocity is virtually meaningless in hunting situations, within reason. Accuracy is what is important to me. Once that is dialed in, I can work with the drop, whatever it is for that caliber/bullet weight/powder charge - on the range if need be, tho book values seem to work quite well for my hunting purposes. But then I don't shoot itty-bitty critters nor beyond 500 yards on the big ones.

Those that do, have legitimate other criteria...

I've always assumed that book max loads are conservative, and when building a ladder, I've gone above them often enough.

I've never found a load that was more accurate above the book load - or even at the max book load. They have always been a grain or few under max book load. Rifles differ of course. Mine are all common beaters, but seem to kill things as needed.

I start out at 4 grains under max book, and go to 4 grains over, in 2 grain increments if pressure signs allow. Refine in 1 grain increments from there, but I've found that usually there is a slot of 1-3 grains in there that just doesn't matter too much for field accuracy. You can dink with half or quarter grain loads within the field, but I generally don't bother. Almost always, I wind up 1-4 grains under max book listing. I do powder charge/trickle with whatever I select to within .1 grain for my hunting loads. Probably not too important, but it makes me feel good. Neck sizing-only fire-formed cases has shown a far more significant increase in accuracy. Including for belted magnums. Perhaps especially so. My .338WM hunting loads are all shoulder head-spaced, with just a slight bump-back from neck sizing. Accuracy is noticeably improved (as if that matters when shooting moose at 70 yards..... smile )

I hate building ladders. My two best loads for the .338WM are junk loads I randomly threw together to get rid of some unwanted bullets. Both went sub MOA. I'm stuck with those rounds now, as they are just too good to shoot at anything but game. Probably gonna die with some left.... Damn! smile

Once I have the accuracy, I'll work the drop of same in hunting situations. It's not hard.

Currently, I'm using factory 140 Corelokts in my .260. My last 2 shot group at 300 yards went 2.2 inches, the 200 yard 3 shot group went 1 inch. From a snow machine seat rest. And I know the drop at 100 yard increments to 500.

The caribou don't deal with it well.

The only reason I'm going to work up a load is that it torques my ass to pay $40 a box....

From the stuff I've been reading for the last month on the .260, looks like I'll try H4350 first for 140 gr loads (preferred by the rifle, not me), and if that doesn't do "good enough", I'll try IMR 4831SC. I've a hundred count of Corelokts, and another 100 of Hornady to play with.


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